Successfully installed ultra-cheap Hydis HV150UX2-100 (AFFS LED UXGA) to T60. This display have reversed 30-pin connector, so needs work to make a adapter or replace connector on display + 3 additional wires to control brightness, on/off backlight and power for backlight. Make some pics later if interested...

Yes, photos would be great...

I'm sorry for my english and soldering quality

1. We need 2 wires for control enable/disable display and brightness level. This pins can be founded on T60 inverter (there may be different inverter model in other T60's, but they all have this points, examples there: http://blog.sina.com.cn/s/blog_6d7abe3d0100n1yz.html)



2. HV150UX2 display needed +7...+28V voltage for a backlight LED's, but i seems to killed +19V source in inverter board and try to use +5V source (i think this is USB +5V source) and it's worked perfectly: backlight is very bright. Please, if someone knows pins location on T60 board with higher DC voltage which can handle about 3-4W of power, tell me where they are.



3. I removed 14-pin connector on LCD and solder directly 3 wires: pwm brightness and backlight on/of from inverter board and HVDD from motherboard +5V source.





4. Reversed original 30-pin display connector was replaced with standard one from cracked LCD.



5. Connecting all cables and inverter board and voila: display worked perfectly, very bright and there no any yellowish tint as on LG.Philips LP150E05...



UPDATE: minor trouble - on HV150UX2 30-pin connector placed about 1-1.5cm far from top of display, so ThinkLight LED wire needs to be modded for place LED in lid + display cable must be laid in some manner to compensate length difference from motherboard connector side...

Hi,

I have a new problem with my screen and wonder if anyone can advise please.

About 15 months ago I bought one of these from cgsplcd on eBay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HV150UX1-101-co ... 3f0c358d35

I'm not quite sure how to describe this, but as of yesterday, there's a dot of white light shining through from behind the screen. It's slap-bang in the middle about a quarter of the way down from the top. It sort of looks like a white led bulb behind the screen and of similar size. It's at its brightest and most noticeable if that section of the sceen is displaying white; still white but dimmer if displaying grey; and not visible at all if displaying black. It doesn't look like a pixel issue, rather something to do with the backlight perhaps?

It's extremely annoying and very noticeable when doing my photo-editing work. Especially so as my panel arrived with a stuck-on white pixel dead-centre of screen - despite the ad stating the panel would be 100% perfect (the seller offered a refund, eventually, but I couldn't afford the hassle and downtime as he had no similar screens available at the time). So now I've got two problems.

Anyhow, I assume that there's no fix for this latest problem with the screen? Does anyone have any experience of this type of problem?

If you close the screen, you will most likely find that the round spot happens to coincide with the red Trackpoint on the keyboard.
The round spot would be what we call a pressure point.
This has nothing to do with the quality or inner workings of the LCD itself.

No, doesn't line up. Nor is there any slightest indication of pressure or other attrition on the screen surface.

Posting a link to the picture of the defect in question would help...

The opening post does not specify if these mods will work with T61p's. I would like to replace the my original 14.1" 1400:1050 (SXGA+) on a T61p with a 1600:1200 (UXGA). Two screens mentioned in the forum:

• Sharp LQ141U1LH02
• Hitachi TX36D58VC1C

Any others out there? Which is brightest? What mods (pin/EEPROM/etc) might be needed? Recommended place for purchase / service?

Thanks!

That Sharp screen was used here: viewtopic.php?t=73465

No specific mention of a 14.1" T61 or T61p in the thread. Only notable datapoints are that takosushi lists this in his signature: "T61 14.1" UXGA mod C2D 2.4Ghz FX570M 3GB DDR2 80GB SSD", and someone notes that the UXGA is dimmer on the T61 than the SXGA+. No other details of pin mods or screen model or CCFL used.

It went into a 14.1" T60 or T60p belonging to forum member xyz, that's all I know.

Just made a swap of IDTech UXGA from my dead T42p to T61 frankenpad. The swap was straightforward without the need for soldering or flashing EDID.
My T42p was made in October 2005, the LCD itself was made in 32nd week of 2005. So I believe all IDTech UXGA LCDs produced in the second half of 2005 were equipped with proper EDID.

It was interesting that while my T42p was still working, PowerStrip did not recognize any EDID. I guess that T42p LCD cable does not have lines supporting EDID

Any info regarding the LCD model? FRU?

I did not record the FRU. But according to the part look-up it is 92P6753.
This one is standard IDtech UXGA N150U3-L01 found in most of T42p and T43p.

That was very helpful. I'm about to replace my LCD with such IDTech, but I was not sure it it have EDID chip.

Hello,

I just bought some R61i's parts for upgrading my T61 (7663-DL6)

The parts are :
1. LCD bezel assembly with camera, FRU 42X5059
2. Integrated camera, FRU 42T3106
3. LCD cable assembly with camera, FRU 93P4377

Do I need more parts to install the integrated camera into my T61? Or those just fine, because I saw the FRU for the LCD cable should be 93P4376 ...
---

Update December 3rd, 2012
I've installed the camera into my T61 but the system don't recognized the camera ...
Is it a faulty camera or LCD flexible cable?

The monitor is working great with the new LCD cable assembly ..

Thanks for your help.

aoitenshi
Hello! This is board problem. It looks like that T61 boards don't have capability of web-camera connection. I didn't check the circuit, but maybe pins for webcamera on LVDS connector isn't connected.
AlexeyTolstyh
Hello! Very big thanks for your report. I want to point you two things:
- it is unclear from photo where one need to solder wire;
- you may take power for led driver from 19V rail from inverter. No need of 5V supply. You need only to mention that on inverter board there is fuse. And this fuse may not be capable of passing through high current.
Also what did you do with thinklight? The HV150UX2 PCB is bigger than normal and the LVDS connector is lower than on regular LCD. So length of LVDS cable becomes insufficient... =(

Welcome to the forum.

Where exactly do you find 19V on the inverter, and which inverter do you use?

You need to fold the LCD cable at the LCD-connector end, or cut the Thinklight cable and put in 2 wires to make it longer.

Great job anyway, replacing the CCFL LCD with the LED version!

RealBlackStuff

As I remember, every inverter takes 19V input and makes power (>1.5kV) for CCFL. So it is boost converter. On every IBM inverter there is fuse near connector to LVDS cable. I checked voltage on this fuse and when I understood that there is enough voltage, I soldered wire from fuse to LED driver input.

P/N 42T0076 FRU 42T0077

Hey, I just replaced the Samsung panel in my 14.1" SXGA+ T60p with a TMD and I must say I miss the Samsung. The TMD has narrower viewing angles, a cream-colored white, and dithers terribly. I'm debating on ordering a BOE-Hydis just because of the dithering. I don't have the FRU numbers handy, but I can get them if needed.

I guess you bought that LCD on eBay, sold as a "guaranteed 100% compatible" screen?
Well, they are not!
TMD is Toshiba AFAIK and should be way better than Samsung, who produces some of the worst (laptop) screens!

That's funny. I just came back to this forum after like a year or 2 and the forum is talking about exactly where I had left off with my T60p and BOE-Hydis AFFS display. LOL...

So what do you need? You may not be able to find a new display, because they didn't really make a whole lot to begin with. I'm willing to part with mine if that helps.

Are any of the recently released Thinkpad's any good? The X1 Carbon Touch sounded good but the screen is crap according to what I read today...

Hi! DOes anybody know if the T40 XGA screen its compatible with a T60 with the same screen resolution? I want to save a good "old" T60, with my dead T40 .

Best regards!

The answer to your question is most likely "no", since the vast majority of T4x LCDs miss the EDID chip that is required by T60/p motherboards.

You've got nothing to lose by trying, though. In the worst case scenario you'll get no image on boot with the T40 LCD.

Good luck.

Thank you so much! This community its soo great! thanks for your fast answer!!

I have a Hydis HV150UX1-100 display and when the brightness control is on highest the display is sufficient bright and very evenly lit. After setting the brightness to a lower value all is fine for a half minute or so but then it becomes dimmer on mostly the right side but still usable.



From left: Full brightness (camera set to show darker), lowest brightness initially, lowest brightness after 30s.

A bit had to capture with my camera but I hope you can see what I mean. Is this normal for the Hydis UXGA or is the backlight going out? It may also be the inverter since a couple of times the backlight has suddenly turned of only showing a very faint image but after a restart disconnecting AC power and battery the display worked as normal again.


I have a new Hydis UXGA LED but have to slaughter the old screen for connectors if I shall do the switch.

I also have the possibility to replace the old CCFL with a LED backlight from a damaged display but I don't know if this will work.

No, it's a genuine panel according to the stickers on it, although those could have been faked. Strangely the purchase doesn't show up in my ebay history.

These are the LCDs as per HMM:
Samsung 13N7059
BOE-Hydis 13N7061
TMD 13N7063
On eBay's Purchase History page, check the Archived button to see older purchases.
Then select which period.

I gave the LED-conversion a try ...

The led lamps from the damaged display were glued to a metal 'reflector' and it was impossible to seperate them without breaking something so I had to cut the plastic frame and replace both ccfl and reflector with the one from the led display. The result is ok, the screen is bright and evenly lit and no more need to compensate for a yellow tint. Even my Sony X-Black now seems a bit yellowish when compared. The only fault is a small 'bleeding' of light at the bottom, just above the leds, I think it is possible o fix that but its rather small so I will leave it as it is. 'Only' the soldering remains and will probably be the hardest part since everything is really tiny and I have never done any soldering before.