1. Can you post some links to your blog posts about where to get the different inverter boards?
I can't, not reliably-- I can tell you where I got a specific board last week, you could order the same board, and possibly get something completely different this week. In general the Chinese vendors don't ship exactly what's in the pictures and you will get a runaround if you complain. As far as they're concerned, if it has the same input connector and lights up LEDs, it's the same product and you got what you ordered. That's why I wrote up several different boards-- there's no telling -for certain_ what you'll get.
I can tell you I've recently bought the Unboosty from creatall88 (on eBay) and a board that's similar to the Unboosty that I need to write up soon from iCCFL.com. The good news is all of the adjustable brightness kits I'bve bought recently that advertise 'trim LEDs in groups of threes' (that is, they're 9.6V strips) were Unboosty variants. But I would not bet money on that being true six months from now. This is the real risk going the DIY route.
BTW, these different boards are all well made and mostly well designed-- it's not Chinese engineers that anger me so, it's the Chinese salesmen.
2. your blog posts do not describe why one inverter is "better" than another.
Mostly because it's not really that simple. The PWM mods are all much easier, but flicker. The Unboosty has a very wide dimming range, but you need SMD chops to mod it. Cheapybuck can be made smallest, but if you make a mistake it will literally go up in flames. Stuff like that.
Does it produce less flicker? Provide a wider dimming range? Or is it simply easier to modify? Please explain your rationale(s) in the blog posts ...
I do try to lay it all out, though I don't really assign 'good/better/best'... do you have a specific suggestion? I might be missing what you're saying.
They all produce the same flicker in PWM mode (that's a function of the intel PWM backlight controller), and none produce any flicker at all with the continuous or HF mods. Dimming range is on the kit list page, as well as the page for each kit. 'Easiest to modify' is probably a deeply personal thing.
If you're fearless-- unboosty with cut-down continuous mod is current champ by far!
3. Can you say anything more about whether these inverters need to be cut down to work with T4x or T6x series laptops? I suspect they would not, however, one might still need to remove the connectors and replace them with genuine thinkpad connectors.
I don't personally own any of those models, so I can't say. If you send me an old beater, I'm more than happy to make a recipie and write it up
However, I can say it's very likely you should build them cut-down for putting onto the preexisting inverter-- the inverter is usually carrying the status LEDs, lid switch, buttons, etc, in addition to the backlight. Either build onto the inverter, or tap your signals and power off the inverter. On the X series, building onto the inverter is probably the only option, given space. Besides, it's a very tidy solution.
Thanks for this, it's awesome !!!
Thank you! I need to finish up the panel installation writeup!