X230: replacing hall effect sensor (lid switch)

[MontyEffect]

I've got an x230 with a malfunctioning hall effect sensor. It randomly decides the lid is closed, causing the screen to switch off (and keyboard to stop responding, I didn't realise that happened when the lid closes). It varies from several times a second to staying on/off for 30s or so.
I've disconnected the cable for now (it's the camera cable that also goes to the status LEDs).

I'm assuming that there's nothing to do but replace it, so I'm hoping to swap it with a working one I have from an old (rather battered) lid.

The sensor isn't mentioned at all in the hardware maintenance manual, but it looks like it can't be separated from the camera cable it splits off from.
It also appears to be stuck down very thoroughly.
Does anyone know how I can get it off and how I can keep the replacement in place?

If I can get it unstuck I could replace the entire camera cable, but I have a question about that too.
According to the manual it's easy to remove, but it actually runs behind some metal tape(?) that is part of the antennae.
Can I unstick that metal from the back of the lid to get the cables out or will that cause problems? Could I unscrew the top part of the lid to try and get the cable out from behind?

[RealBlackStuff]

You'll need cable 04W1408 which is available all over the place (if your other cable is not OK).
AFAIK the HAL is only glued, but using e.g. a guitar pick you could remove it.
Carefully loosen enough of that antenna/metal tape so you can remove the old cable, put the new one in, then press the metal tape back in place, and 'smooth' it as best as possible.
Take pictures before you do it, if needed.

[MontyEffect]

Thank you, that's reassuring. I should be able to do that fine
I'm fairly sure I can get the sensor stuck back in place if needed too.

The other cable is definitely working right now, but it's good to know I can get another easily enough.

[MontyEffect]

All sorted now.

In the end I couldn't peel back the antenna foil without tearing it to pieces, so I inserted a thin flathead screwdriver under it right against the top edge and loosened that bit enough to pull the cable through under it. It was more fiddly than I thought it would be to get the replacement cable sitting where it should be but I got there eventually

There was enough stickyness left on the sensor and where it sits that I didn't need anything extra to hold it in place.