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 Post subject: Regarding T42 Fan Removal
PostPosted: Thu Nov 22, 2007 2:54 am 
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Joined: Thu Nov 22, 2007 1:28 am
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Location: Irvine, California
hello everyone. i am currently in the process of removing the fan in my t42 laptop. i am at the final steps where i can see the fan and i need to take off the 3 screws that are on top of the fan. however, i am having quite some trouble taking these 3 screws. i was wondering what kind of screwdriver you guys used to remove these screws. if possible, please be specific in the model of screwdriver as i will try my best to buy the exact one.

thanks!

ps: happy thanksgiving everyone!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Nov 22, 2007 4:04 am 
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Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
First: Welcome to the forum!

About the screws - although I have never disassembled a fan from the motherboard I guess that there should be sufficient information in the ThinkPad ComputerHardware Maintenance Manual (see page 107, where is says "M2 × 10 mm, flat-head, nylon-coated (3)"). Also, there was a thread a few days ago that you might also want to check; see Questions on Removing the Fan Unit from a T42.

I hope the above is what you need to know...

Happy Thanksgiving feast!

Best regards,

Johan

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IBM T42p's (2373-Q1U & -Q2U): 2.1 GHz, 15" UXGA FlexView, 2 GB RAM, 128 MB FireGL T2, 60 GB/100 GB 7200rpm, IBM a/b/g, BT, Win XP Pro
IBM T42 (2373-N1G): 1.8 GHz, 15" SXGA+ FlexView, 1.5 GB RAM, 64 MB Radeon 9600, 80 GB 5400 rpm, IBM a/b/g, BT, Win XP Pro


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Nov 22, 2007 5:35 am 
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Welcome to the forum.

I use a Snap on SGDEP21 #1 phillips.

Any #1 phillips may do.

Brad

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T43p 2669-Q1U, A22p's UTU A21p HXU
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Nov 24, 2007 3:42 pm 
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Joined: Thu Nov 22, 2007 1:28 am
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Location: Irvine, California
Brad wrote:
Welcome to the forum.

I use a Snap on SGDEP21 #1 phillips.

Any #1 phillips may do.

Brad


thanks brad,

i tried using multiple #1 phillips but i only managed to take out one screw. the other two won't budge...any other suggestions before i purchase the exact same snap on model :lol:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Nov 24, 2007 5:00 pm 
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The answer is thet you need a good size 00 phillips. You can get them at radio shack or a good hardware store.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Nov 24, 2007 7:57 pm 
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Location: Irvine, California
richk wrote:
The answer is thet you need a good size 00 phillips. You can get them at radio shack or a good hardware store.


just picked up an 00 phillips from frys....no good. i really don't wanna keep messing around with the screw since i'm afraid of damaging the actual screw. i'm debating about sending this into ibm or a laptop repair service. however, it makes me upset that i'll have to pay $100+ just for them to take out two screws :roll:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 25, 2007 2:19 am 
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These screws really appear to be very tight.

If you take your time they should budge.

Maybe someone you know could give you a hand.

If I was nearby I would see what I could do.

Brad

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T43p 2669-Q1U, A22p's UTU A21p HXU
Transnote, 770's 8AU, 600, 701CS, 755CD


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 25, 2007 3:13 am 
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Location: Crossville, TN USA
gravityrainbow wrote:
just picked up an 00 phillips from frys....no good. i really don't wanna keep messing around with the screw since i'm afraid of damaging the actual screw. i'm debating about sending this into ibm or a laptop repair service. however, it makes me upset that i'll have to pay $100+ just for them to take out two screws :roll:


What I'm about to say may sound nutty but if you carefully follow the instructions below they will work, your heat sink will be out and you'll have saved a hundred bucks! You see, I too made appeals for someone to help me with the same dilemma and no one could!

Hmmm.

I have TWO T41's which had heat sink screws SOOO tight no screw driver could take them out without GORILLA like strength and pressure (down) which, once I saw the MOBO flexing, I did NOT want to do ... so I took a PLIERS with very sharp teeth on the nose and CAREFULLY took them to the three brass stud mounts (only grasp the TOP-MOST stud, the brass stud in which the screw sits). Turned it counterclockwise and Voila, they were free! So simple, so easy.

Some additional points:
When you turn the top stud with the pliers (not the bottom stud, do not turn the largest diameter one, turn the smallest diameter one) be careful to use only enough clamping pressure with the pliers to grasp and turn the stud until it breaks free. You don't want to blemish the stud but the teeth will blemish it a little. Afterward a little fine file work on the stud (once the heat sink is out) will clean things up pretty nice. Once the stud is broken free use the screwdriver to finish removal.

When you tighten the screws back in do NOT T-I-G-H-T-E-N the screws. The stud you just clamped on with the pliers is actually a spring loaded plunger. It (actually THEY, all three studs) are spring loaded and designed to apply just enough (and just the right amount of) pressure to securely hold the heat sink in place on top of the CPU. When I secured my heat sinks I used just enough torque to feel the stud stopped on its spring load on its way down (in other words, it felt JUST B-A-R-E-L-Y secured). The spring tension in the stud mounts will keep screws from vibrating out so don't think you have to TIGHTEN them down, you DON'T, just 'snug' them in!!

All the best

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IBM Thinkpad T41 Home | X31 Travel | X60 fun
2GHz Dothan (X60 C2D, X31 1.7 Banias), 2GB RAM, 320GB HDD, DVD Multi-Burner, IBM 11b/g, Bluetooth II, Docks
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 Post subject: thanks!
PostPosted: Sun Aug 31, 2008 4:24 pm 
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Joined: Sun Aug 31, 2008 7:54 am
Posts: 1
Location: Liege, Belgium
sojourner, thanks for your great trick! It worked perfectly with my R52 even though I had already damaged the screws trying to unscrew them.

Igor


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