Can You Swap Mobos without detaching the LCD Assembly? PICS

[PeteS457]

I've posted several times lately in my quest to repair my dead (dead system board) but beloved T42p. (Becoming less beloved every day....) Anyway, I've purchased a replacement system board from a member here and it was already attached to T42p case bottom to facilitate the swap so I didn't have to detach the system board from the casing in both machines in order to make the swap. However, in trying to detach my LCD assembly from my old T42p case to put it on the replacement system board with case, I have stripped 2 of the 3 very small and impossibly tight screws that attach the LCD assembly to the casing. (In the HMM, step 4, page 145). So now I'm faced with a tough decision. I can bust the case open, hopefully without damaging the LCD, to get the attachment screws out and remove the LCD. Or I can try to remove the replacement system board from the casing and remove my dead system board and do a just a mobo swap. However, according to the HMM, I should remove the LCD Assembly before I do a mobo swap. Has anyone ever swapped mobos in a T42p without removing the LCD assembly first? Does anyone know if it can be done? I'm pretty much between a rock and a hard place here.

Admin edit: Added PIC warning to the subject line

[Harryc]

It sounds like you are using the wrong screwdriver. You need a #0 phillips. I don't see a reason why you can't swap boards without removing the LCD. Also, you can drill out the heads (carefully and slowly) of the stripped screws as well.

[PeteS457]

Thanks Harryc for your reply. Yeah, George told me he's had a tough time with those screws also and explained that it took a #0 phillips. I didn't know I had one around the house, but I found one this morning. Unfortunately, I had already done too much damage to the screw head and they are extremely tight.

I guess I'm going to try to replace the system board without detaching the LCD. I just don't trust my drilling skills for such a delicate assignment.

[sjthinkpader]

If you stripped the screw, best is to drill off the head then remove the screw body with pliers or Visegrips. You will need to remove the LCD assembly to allow the gray color subframe to come out. The MB has to come out with the subframe.

The drilling is pretty safe as the stripped head automatically centers the bit. I do that on a drill press but had done it with a cordless drill also.


There are some #0 screws especially on American built T42s. But most screws are #1s. It is much easier to strip a #1 screw using a #0 driver bit. I use a #1 driver bit purchased in Japan that is very hard and fit snug in those #1 screws. Stripping reduced a lot.

This is a collection of #0 and #1 drivers and bits. The thin shaft on the bits allows them to go in small holes standard Home Depot variety won't.

[RealBlackStuff]

For 'stuck' screws, I use a set of these: http://www.amazon.com/Eazypower-82681-D ... B000HE9VZY

They won't go into narrow holes though...

[Paul Pennington]

I agree that a #1 Phillips screwdriver is correct for almost all the screws in ThinkPads. I think the confusion arises because the TIP dimensions of Phillips screwdrives are standard, but unfortunately the SHAFT size varies widely. The ordinary #1 Phillips around the house has a shaft that is too big to go in some of the recessed holes in the base. There are some around, but they may be hard to find. The Wiha brand is one of the best: just search on eBay. They are available singly or in sets. The set of seven screwdrivers for about $15-20 is a good buy.

Try this test with your screwdriver: turn it gently clockwise and counterclockwise without moving the screw. If it fits loosely in the socket and the screwdriver turns a few degrees, the tip is too small. The right size will fit tightly and be much less prone to stripping. The shaft size is another question.

On removing stripped screws: it is possible to buy drill bits with a reverse spiral that are used with the drill in reverse. Usually, the screw will come out before much drilling is done. Be sure to use a vacuum cleaner hose while you're drilling so the metal chips do not fall inside the computer.

[sjthinkpader]

... The Wiha brand is one of the best: just search on eBay. They are available singly or in sets. The set of seven screwdrivers for about $15-20 is a good buy....

Yes, Wiha are the best and a little less expensive is Thorsen. Tip should be broached instead of molded or direct forged. They have sharp edges. Many of the Home Depot level driver bits are powder metal and really not suitable for use on Thinkpads. They are cheap due to net-shape or near-net-shape processes. Broaching a tip is costly because it will have to be turned three times and lubricant used in broaching needs proper disposal.

Key for good handling is a relatively short handle.

Germany is like Japan, there are many small shops with highly skilled owners that can turn out traditionally made tools and still low cost. Subsequently the best hand tools are made there.

[PeteS457]

Well I've been a bit busy this weekend so I haven't had time to follow through on this problem. However, I must say it was very nice to come back to this thread and see such quality responses and help. If I don't get this done correctly, it will not be because I didn't get great support from the forum members.

Thanks once again. I've gone from thinking about tearing the case apart to realizing if I do this carefully with the right tools (which I still don't have), that I should be able to drill the screws out successfully.

Will get back on it tomorrow and make some decisions after reviewing this thread once more.

[PeteS457]

When I drill these screws out, I guess I'm going to need replacements for when I attach the LCD to the new system board+case bottom. I know most Thinkpad screws are nylon-coated, but seem to be otherwise standard screws. So do I need to purchase a bag of Thinkpad screws online rather than go to my local hardware store? (There are several Thinkpad screw set for T4x series for $5.99-$6.40 with free shipping offered on eBay.)

I'm now trying to decide how to get the appropriate drill bit and this thread is giving me some excellent things to consider. I'm trying not to let my anxiousness to get this done affect my decision-making. Strange only a couple days ago I just wanted to forget about the whole thing, but now I'm ready to get going. I just wish these things were for purchase at my fingertips instead of having to wait for things online.

[sjthinkpader]

Screw distributors only have pan head, zinc plated or stainless steel screws. I don't like SS since magnetic driver tips cannot pick them up but had used zinc plated screws before. Screws from ebay seller specifically for T4x will look the same as original.

Select a drill bit designed for metal and about same size as the screw body. A tiny drop of lubricant make the drilling easier although the steel they used in the TP screws are not that hard, hence strip easily.

[Davemci]

I've been waiting 3 weeks now for my T43 screws and screw covers to arrive from an eBay seller. Most, if not all are either in China or Hong Kong.
I didn't strip any but I bumped the cup that had all the screws and I still can't find 3 of them. Also, I trashed some of the screw covers trying to peel them off. I have the T43 back and running but have a few problems I will bring up in another thread.

[sjthinkpader]

Yes, having a few common pan head screws around is not a bad thing.

[RealBlackStuff]

For screws and most other small TP parts (like HD covers) I go to eBayers wibony (Hong Kong) or meditechny (New York).
They are the same outfit, but the NYer is a lot faster (but charges for shipping).

[PeteS457]

For all who are following my repair - I have drilled off the screw heads and now removed the LCD assembly. Of course in doing so, I now need two flat-head, M2 x 10mm screws to replace the ones I ripped apart. So the only way to replace these two small screws is to go online and buy them? Are Thinkpad screws a proprietary design and not something standard I can pick up in a hardware store?

It shows you how naive I am when it comes to general hardware issues. But it certainly seems like overkill to go online and buy from Hong Kong or NY for two tiny screws.

Thanks for any help.

[Harryc]

I would think that a model/hobby shop that does RC cars and trains would have tiny metric screws ...

[Paul Pennington]

I'll second the recommendation from RealBlackStuff for eBay seller meditechny. They are not charging postage now. The T42 screw set I got from them was brand new and exactly like the IBM originals, right down to the brown nylon coating on the tips. I ordered the set for $5.99 on a Thursday and received them the following Monday. I also ordered a hard disk caddy and screws for $5.88, and a power jack for $3.99, all with free shipping.

I would not recommend trying to find replacement screws elsewhere. If the screw is too long it could damage something expensive! The set above will have all the right lengths and heads, and even colors.

[PeteS457]

To all who have followed me on my T42p repair. My journey is over. The T42p lives!

Regarding the screws, there happen to be several M2 x 10mm screws in the 2373-Q1U. The Bluetooth daughter board fits quite snugly in the upper left hand corner of the system board and is further secured by 3 M2 x 10mm screws. For now, I'm only using one screw to secure it and using the other two to replace the two screws I stripped that attaches the LCD screen. The seller of the mobo is generously sending me a few miscellaneous Thinkpad screws so I'll completely secure the BT daughter board when they arrive.

So my T42p lives to see another day. Thanks for all the support.

[sjthinkpader]

The BT/Modem daughter card is really only attached with two screws. The third screw near the CDC thru the gray color sub-frame is actually pretty important. It give the sub-frame thus the LCD torsional strength via the case bottom. So you should have this one attached.

By the same token, the gray color bar on the left side is also very important in giving the LCD torsional strength and reduce case bottom flex. These items must be tight.

[K0LO]

Very nice information on stripped screw removal, guys. A favorite technique of mine, when drilling, is to generously cover the area around the screw with masking tape; sticky side up. The sticky side will catch a lot of the metal particles as you drill.