WTB 15" T60 frame for frankenpad project (solved)

[larso]

I'm currently gathering parts for a T60p/T61 frankenpad project. I basicly have everything I need except for cpu and ram upgrade, but I'll get to that later.
The thing is, though, that I don't want disasseble my T60p before I have all parts ready to put back inside, including the modified frame.
That's why I'm looking for a 15 inch T60 or T60p frame, maybe even a modified frame, so I don't have to modify it myself.

EDIT:
As RealBlackStuff suggested, I'm going to desolder the modem connector to avoid having to modify the chassis.

[RealBlackStuff]

If you remove/unsolder the modem-connector from the T61 motherboard, you need to file down only one stand-off on the T60 chassis...

[larso]

If you remove/unsolder the modem-connector from the T61 motherboard, you need to file down only one stand-off on the T60 chassis...

Thanks for your reply. I don't really need the modem, so I guess this is the best solution for me, as I don't have any tools to modify the chassis with, but.I do have soldering iron.

[TuuS]

On the T60 frame we normally remove one of the modem mounting points as you can see in this photo...

http://home.concepts.nl/~pc125480/t61_m ... 0_reds.jpg

I usually cut it off cleanly with a dremel tool, but you can do it with a file, or even just break it off. I normally start the cuts and snap it off and cleanup the break with the dremel

However if you look at the second circled locations this "stand off" where the T60 board attached to the frame has no corresponding hole on the T61 board so I grind about 1/16" off so it doesn't touch the T61 board. This can be done with a dremel or with a file. A dremel takes just a few seconds but a file can do it easy enough in a few mins. I also use Kapton tape on the board in this area to assure that any flexing won't cause contact of the frame to the board since this area of the board isn't designed to be contacted by the frame which is grounded.

I'll also note that there is a report from a member who attempted to drill the board so that they could use this mount on the T61 board, but it was a fatal mistake and destroyed the board, so there are definitely some vital circuits in this area so be careful.

Also, if your T61 board has discrete graphics and you're using the T61p style discrete heatsink, you'll need to modify the retainer so it can clear the larger heatsink as shown in this photo...

http://www.e30tuner.com/assist/frankenp ... _hs010.jpg

If you don't do this you're likely to not have the keyboard fully seated and it could contact the surface of the screen causing damage, but if intel graphics are used with matching heatsink this isn't necessary.


Happy Frankenpadding

[larso]

Thanks for your reply! I actually assembled my frankenpad yesterday, but I did not modify the frame. I actually melted away the modem connecor plastic, because my soldering iron was not hot enough to melt the solder. But I managed to do something wrong with the hex screws on the vga connector so my laptop was bulging down on the left side under the heatsink. So today, I went ahead and disassembled my laptop one last time, and I figured I should modify the frame after all, so I filed down on both places you suggested and now it fits perfectly.

About the heatsink, I actually used the original t60 heatsink and fan, but it sort of hovered above my gpu, so I placed a coin between the fastening bracket and the heatsink above the gpu and that did the trick. I have a 42W7648 board, with intel gpu, but I don't really need the extra gpu power, as I use my desktop for gpu intensive tasks.

[TuuS]

Rather than use a coin on your integrated chipset/gpu chip, you can bend the tab on your retainer to accurately adjust it so it provides just enough tension to hold it in place, but not enough so that it torques the board.

Also, it's important that you use thermal paste on the Intel gpu if you want efficient cooling, instead of the silicone pad used on the T60.