Drop the college which only costs you money, and go into reballing to make money instead...Medessec wrote:Oh wow... heh, I may have some experience in reflowing, but reballing...
It is something I could try though... I may have to consider it. Making it a thing though-where I could help out with reballs, would be dependent on my situation with college (oh joy... )
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George (your grouchy retired FlexView farmer)
AARP club members:A31p, T42, T43pSF
Abused daily: T61p
PMs requesting personal tech support will be ignored.
According to Nick it's fairly easy to learn if you have the proper equipment.
Look at some of the options:
- reflow motherboards (GPU and Southbridge on T4x/R5x)
- reball motherboards (GPU and Southbridge on T4x/R5x)
- remove/reball soldered CPUs (X3x, X4x, X6x and possibly newer
- remove/replace T61 nVidia GPUs (if you can get them)
- remove SATA chips on T43/R52 boards
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I don't think reballing works when the best tools on hand is an old heat gun, a solder stick, and a flathead screw driver.
Best advice ever.Drop the college which only costs you money, and go into reballing to make money instead...
701C, 760, 770, X24, T30, G41, A31p, T43p, T60/61 Frankie, Z61p, X60 SXGA+, W700ds
and yes. I am a bit of a lunatic.
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I cannot see it in the Hardware Maintenance manual.
Temperatures for several tin/lead and lead-free solders are given here:
http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/forum/293 ... -card-oven
But which one is right ?
And if he gets it from Nick, then Nick will no doubt tell him.
The melting point for the T43 GPU solder balls is around 250o C.
But it is different for leaded and unleaded solder.
Why don't you have a look at some of the reflow/reball videos on Nick's old website?
Having rebuilt one T42 with an R52 motherboard, I've still got most of another one and two failed motherboards.
Maybe 1 out of 100 amateur attempts might have been successful.
We have often enough warned against this!
It was just a question about whether a temperature probe could be used, as I've already got one, rather than an infra-red thermometer which I haven't got and am unlikely to find a use for in the future.
It is a loose contact and can play all kind of tricks on you.
To find out what the cause really is, it would cost you a lot of time and money.
And additionally from the distance it is impossible to diagnose.
Thinkpads with 15inch 4:3 UXGA 133DPI IPS/Flexview: 2x T43p SATA Mod., 3x T42p (dying by Flexing), 2x T60p (1xATI, 1xIntel/new BoeHydis);
R51 SXGA+; X31; X41T; X41 Sata Mod; all Made in China; 570E, 701C; MBP15c3UB non-glossy mid09 / formerly 600X, 760E
I think that I have no wish to diagnose further. I think that it's the Intel chipset. I've opened it and when press slightly one corner of the chip, it works almost normal. If DIY reflow is not an option, then sooner or later it would eventually be dead and there is nothing to do about this.. Thank you. I really hope, that this would not be the future fate of my IBM T41 too.lophiomys wrote:It is a loose contact and can play all kind of tricks on you. To find out what the cause really is, it would cost you a lot of time and money.And additionally from the distance it is impossible to diagnose.
Flexing of the motherboard causes that chip to loose contact with the mobo.
It is attached to it via BGA, i.e. ca. 650 tiny solder balls.
One or two loose balls is enough to horribly upset the laptop.
The same problem happened with the ATI GPU chip in those T4x machines.
Reballing is the only option. Playing with a heatgun is not an option.
I follow all the steps carefully, but now my T61 doesn`t power on.
When I connect the AC, Battery Status and AC Power Status lights blink at the same time, once. Nothing more happens. I've tried to disconnect almost every thing. Same behaviour. I`ve tried to disconnect the LCD too, but then any light comes on. I`ve checked same fuses on the motherboard, but all are ok.
Shall I put my Thinkpad in the trash??
I`ve also checked the charger (with my other thinkpad) and it works perfectly. Same behaviour with only battery. When I connect the battery, AC Power Status and Battery status blink once, nothing more happens when I push the power button.
Battery Status Led
AC Power Status Led
I started with the "Kind of a guide - Baking your GPU for fun and profit" web page years ago. Never used a heat gun technique. This forum has some great info - Thanks George, RBS, xenomorph. These guys are to ThinkPads like the Black Viper is to Windows.
HERE'S WHAT I KNOW. I HAVE DONE 5 OUT OF 7 T43 AND T43P MODELS - Preheat. 390 degrees F for 5.5 minutes. Turn off. Open door. Let cool in oven. I use the OP's tinfoil balls but use 6 or 7 and flatten the bottom so they don't roll around. Want to support the mobo or it'll warp. Balls to get airflow I presume. DO NOT BELIEVE WHAT CRYBABIES SAY. They last. All are still in service pumping Kodi to a TV - used heavily for years - by some of my friends who don't have cable or Netflix. As a recycler, I'm proud of these (and the ones that had a broken screen - now no screen - pumping a TV or used as a desktop.)
Here's what I don't know. Failed on 5 other ones, too. Never been able to get a T41P, T42, or fix a sound clipping issue or one that didn't power on. Was looking for the right recipe for a T42 9600. IF YOU NEED A GPU REFLOW ON A T43 OR T43P TRY MY RECIPE. IT'S PROVEN. The 1st one I did was 5.25 minutes at 385 and it worked. Baking for longer a 2nd time got one close to working but did not work so I upped it to 5.5 390 and cook them once.
It's worth doing for me. I buy 15" IPS FlexView's with bad GPU's often. Mobo's are in supply compared to good screens.
IMHO your T40/1/2 problem is (and remains) the Southbridge (big Intel chip under the wifi-card).
The more central location of the ATI GPU might work for your "cookout", but does not work for the closer-to-the-side Southbridge.
As mentioned before, you'll need a reball here, not a reflow.
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