What prompted change in disassembling T20-22 vs. T23?

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dsigma6 · #1 Post by **dsigma6** » Wed Oct 04, 2006 8:33 am

I've been enjoying the simplicity of applying arctic 5 on a T20 and T22. So I go to do the same to my T23, and wow it's a shame...

Why did they change it from only having to remove 2 screws, the KB and the CR cage, to having to remove EVERYTHING from the keyboard bezel, hinge cover, and a bit more than a dozen screws?

I have every screw out of the machine and the KB bezel still won't come off. It's stuck around the ultrabay cage, but there are no more screws that I can see. I don't want to crack it, but I appear to be left with few options.

Did they do this so that customers would be less inclined to rip the machine open? Very disappointing!

#2 Post by **rkawakami** » Wed Oct 04, 2006 9:05 am

I've done a couple of T23s and the keyboard bezel does have a little 'trick' in removing it. I lift up the front edge about two inches and then work the back edge out by pulling forward slightly.

Have you removed the screw inside the MiniPCI area holding the ethernet card in?

dsigma6 · #3 Post by **dsigma6** » Wed Oct 04, 2006 9:08 am

Yes I took out both screws in that area. I'll give it another try now that I'm slightly more awake.

Thanks

edit: It's off. I must have been really slow when I tried it last. I still want to know why they had to make it so difficult!

#4 Post by **rkawakami** » Wed Oct 04, 2006 9:41 am

Imagine trying to find a part which emits a burning smell, which seems to be coming from the bottom side of a T23, next to the docking port. Said burning smell of course can only be detected when the system is powered up and then maybe you will understand what I've been going through for the past couple of days trying to pin that little bugger down... Disassemble... partially assemble... disassemble again... Fully re-assemble.... grrr... Disassemble... System appears to run fine otherwise. Well, at least for the 5 to 6 minutes that I've been brave enough to attempt.

There should be a contest to see who can field-strip a T23, pulling the entire motherboard out, and then re-assembling the system so that every screw and plastic screw covers are back in place. All done without reference to the HMM!

#5 Post by **jdhurst** » Wed Oct 04, 2006 9:54 am

A couple of things:
1. A T41 (at least mine) is not so difficult. I removed the keyboard and the palm rest. I did not remove the keyboard bezel. I was able to "slide/tilt/lift" the fan assembly off the CPU and out from under the bezel. I know how to work carefully, and I have now done this several times, so it can work, and makes the job easier.
2. The vendor in Toronto that I have used for years can replace the motherboard in a T30 (major disassembly) and put it all back together in the field without checking a manual. One of those technicians pulled my T41 apart (I watched him) to replace the motherboard (broken connection). He did it in his shop, but did not use a manual. I think good technicians with lots of experience and good work practices can rise to your challenge.
... JD Hurst

dsigma6 · #6 Post by **dsigma6** » Wed Oct 04, 2006 9:57 am

rkawakami wrote:every screw

come on, give a little leeway!

#7 Post by **rkawakami** » Wed Oct 04, 2006 10:06 am

dsigma6 wrote:come on, give a little leeway!

Okay. You don't have to re-install the keyboard CRU insulator. Don't know how many times I've completely re-assembled the T23 only to find the insulator sitting on my desk, mocking me.

BTW: what does CRU stand for anyway

(edit: Completely Redundant Unit? Customer Requested Upgrade? Component Really Useless?)

#8 Post by **JaneL** » Wed Oct 04, 2006 10:31 am

rkawakami wrote:BTW: what does CRU stand for anyway

CRU is Customer Replaceable Unit (you can replace it)

FRU is Field Replaceable Unit (an onsite tech can replace it)

dsigma6 · #9 Post by **dsigma6** » Wed Oct 04, 2006 10:35 am

i'm left with one extra screw, but i know where it goes. i thought it was for the bottom, but it has to be screwed on the inside..

i have a potentially huge problem- being the &#^@ idiot that i am, i did the pick-a-screw-and-see-where-it-fits routine on the bottom side. i put a screw in a hole and it fit. i kept screwing. then i opened my eyes-

i was screwing right into the yellow power input jack (whatever you call it!)...and it pushed part of the surrounding metal down into the hole, so that a charger wouldn't fit in. i gently pushed it back, but i have a feeling this is toast..

#10 Post by **rkawakami** » Wed Oct 04, 2006 10:51 am

The good news is that the DC power jack is replaceable. Held in with that one (short) screw and terminating in a plug which goes into the motherboard or I/O card (can't remember which at the moment).

I know this is a little late, but you didn't need to remove that screw to take the hinge cover off. The three long, round head screws at either end of the back and next to the docking port is all that is needed.

If you have a docking station/port replicator, you can completely remove the DC power jack and use the dock/port rep for power.

#11 Post by **rkawakami** » Wed Oct 04, 2006 11:17 am

nonny wrote:CRU is Customer Replaceable Unit (you can replace it)

Ah, I missed that explanation in the HMM ("The FRUs marked with one asterisk are CRUs...). Which doesn't explain why the "backup battery" (i.e. the CMOS battery) does not have an asterisk next to the FRU or P/N. Does this mean that the average lay-person is expected to take the laptop in to a service center ($$$$) for the simple replacement of a $5 battery?

I'll take a stab at answering my own question and say that it's probably because the average person may not know how to orient the plug the correct way and could cause some damage to the motherboard if they tried to put it in upside-down.

Anyway, sorry to get a little OT...

I believe that the DC power plug for the T20/T21/T22 can be found here:

eBay link

That eBay link says the jack works with all T2x systems, but if I remember correctly, the power jack was a little different between the T23 and the T22 systems I opened up awhile ago.

dsigma6 · #12 Post by **dsigma6** » Wed Oct 04, 2006 11:58 am

Much appreciated. I was looking at them on ebay, but wanted to open her up again to see what's involved. It looks like it plugs in just like the cmos or ethernet card (ok it obviously does as the picture shows). The jack still works, however the plug has to be "screwed" into it and it moves around a bit.

I ought to take my time with these things. I always rush and make a little mistake. Guess I should have done this at home and not at my desk at work.

What prompted change in disassembling T20-22 vs. T23?

What prompted change in disassembling T20-22 vs. T23?

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