I killed my T23 Laptop

[larrylwill]

I was trying to reinstall XP on my T23 because I was having multiple problems with it. The CD wouldn't read. I tried 5 different ones to copy to the hard drive and there was always files that wouldn't copy, then my D drive stopped being recognized. I used Part Magic to delete and restore it. Then tried again copying the XP install cd to the HD. After an hour I was getting really frustrated and slapped the keyboard with my hand and it died. Now when I turn it on I do not get the screen to light and the cpu fan is varying speed, fast then slower then fast. Like something is trying to start up. I removed the KB but didnt find any loose connectors, so now I either have to completly dissemble the case and look for something loose, or send it off for repair or buy a new laptop.
Any suggestions or Ideas welcome, except
" Don't slap your computer"

Thanks

[larrylwill]

Can anyone verify if the screen will come on without a CPU installed?
I removed the CPU and the fan comes up to full speed. I am now suspecting that the CPU may have been going bad and I just helped it along.

[TomKroscavage]

Did you turn the motherboard over and check the two coils on the bottom. There black check the solder joints real close. there is a thread for this problem and a good photo.

[larrylwill]

Well I took the MB out just now and your right there are 2 coils and one had broken solder joints on both sides and one on one side.
I will solder them back and Heaven help me putting it back together.
I will report when Im finished. I never found the thread. I searched for coils.

Thank you.

[TomKroscavage]

The key to soldering is clean, clean, clean, and clean some more a hot soldering pencil and the thinest solder you can find.

[tfflivemb2]

Here is the thread...

[larrylwill]

Well that was the problem, one coil both sides and one coil one side. That sure was a cheap soldering job. Looked like flow solder and there was not much contact. They won't come off again.

I got it back together and only had one screw left over, a short one. A record for me.

Thanks for the help, much appreciated. I figured it was junk.

[rkawakami]

I got it back together and only had one screw left over, a short one.

Taking a guess and saying that it's one of the two small screws holding the Ultrabay down or the keyboard bezel to the Ultrabay. Probably won't be an issue. Put it back the next time you take the system apart .

Oh, and don't carry/lift the system by one corner. If you need to move it around while the lid is open, put one hand under the system, in the middle, and carry it like a waiter carries a tray. Keeps other components from separating from the motherboard too.

[TomKroscavage]

Was it hard to solder back on? It makes me nervous soldering on small parts.

[larrylwill]

I work at home testing Ic's for a living. I have been soldering for about 45 years, so NO, it wasn't hard for me.
Here is what I did. One coil was broke on both ends, The coil has a small metal ear that starts at the side and bends under it. It was soldered under the coil body.
Use a small point iron low wattage and small diameter solder, tin the pads on the board, don't make a big pile just a light coating, then tin the ears of the coil sides and bottom. Then you first heat the solder on the pad until molten then lower the coil onto the top of the tip of the iron over the tab melting both the pad and coil ear solder, then slide the tip out onto the side of the ear which keeps the solder molten. Then remove the iron and let it cool while holding the coil steady. You can then do the same thing for the other side. As long as you use a low wattage iron and don't touch anything else you cant overheat anything. My iron is variable to 55 watts I use about 25-35 watt setting. Also make sure the tip is clean and shinny, not black. Clean and tin the tip.
Its not hard but takes a steady hand and tip about the size of pencil point. I use a wedge point about 1/16th " wide. Make sure you check for any shorts from the coil to another component. Melt a glob of solder on the tip befor you turn the iron off. it keeps it from corroding.
If you dig that far you might as well clean and put some new heat sink compound on the CPU, mine was old and hard. The fan comes on about 1/4 as much as it did before.
Good luck.

[TomKroscavage]

Larry thanks for the soldering tips. We use a Sal-Ammoniac Block, it is great for keeping a soldering tip in top condition.


***Larry I think you should add your soldering tips to the other motherboard repair thread.***

[Xenomorph]

i just fixed my T23 yesterday.

i SUCK at soldering, and it was almost HELL trying to fix my T23.

my soldering iron just plugs in. nothing to adjust. i dont know its power. it probably wasnt clean either.

it was as thick as a Bic ball point pen. that gave me almost zero room to solder the side that faces the outside of the board.

i dont even know what kind of solder i have. its kinda small, and has resin in it i think.

what i did:
- used a small flat head screw driver to scrape the connections clean on the motherboard and the inductor

- i covered parts of the motherboard around the solder area with tape, so i wouldnt accidently get solder where i didnt want it, and would better notice if i was burning something i shouldnt be.

- i used nail clippers to cut off two tiny chunks of solder, and then layed them on the connectors on the motherboard.

- i layed the inductor on top the of solder, and then taped it in place

- i then poked around and cussed many times while trying to get the solder to melt.

after about 10 attempts, i finally got the solder to melt and connect the inductor to the board. i then soldered the other connector.

the inductor (is that what the part is, "inductor"?) sits at a slight angle (its not flat on the board).

i added some foam padding into the case so there is constant pressure against the piece, which may add some extra protection against any further bumps.