Updated- What battery do I buy to replace my CMOS batteries?

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braxx · #1 Post by **braxx** » Mon Jul 02, 2007 2:47 pm

Update 07-07-2007:Well, the batteries came today. They look just like the originals. Same PN's just a little longer wires by about 0.5".
So far I'd say they were a good deal at $2.95 each. Seller is: grtrunner02

Auction is: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... &rd=1&rd=1

Original post:
I need to replace the the cmos batteries in (2) T22's and (1) T23 laptops. I searched on here and I found posts that suggested purchasing new loose batteries and then just tape the leads to the new battery. I would solder small metal tabs to the leads and then tape them to the battery.
So, does anyone know what battery I should buy?
Also, is it the same for T22 and T23 models?
Thanks,
Josh

#2 Post by **rkawakami** » Mon Jul 02, 2007 3:04 pm

I know that you did not say this, but this is for anyone thinking about soldering tabs directly onto the new battery:

I would NOT recommend that you attempt soldering anything to a replacement battery. Have you seen the cautions about not disposing of batteries in a fire? They have a tendancy to explode when subjected to heat.

You CAN wrap a standard CR2032 (I think) battery with electrical tape but I would not personally do that either. Spend a couple of extra dollars and get one that's been industrially welded, with the proper connector and you won't have to worry about the taped connections. Besides, trying to put a taped-up battery into the battery holder in the T2x systems can be pretty hard.

nikki605 · #3 Post by **nikki605** » Mon Jul 02, 2007 7:39 pm

I agree with both of Ray's points.

1. Several months ago, I tried soldering to one of these batteries for a different purpose. Solder won't flow. Solder (tin & lead)bonds to copper. These batteries are made of a steel alloy. The molten solder just balled up and rolled off the surface.

2. I would never trust the contact between the wire and battery (two sides) just held by tape. Vibration and oxidation over time would produce a marginal connection, at best.

braxx · #4 Post by **braxx** » Mon Jul 02, 2007 10:07 pm

OK, I'm willing to buy new correct cmos batteries but I don't want "New, old stock" that is 3yrs old.
Is this an item that can be purchased with a way of knowing that the battery is fresh?
Thanks,
Josh

EDIT: I just ordered 3 new batteries. Seller says the batteries are less than 3 months old and have a 1yr free replacement warranty.
That was easy!

#5 Post by **rkawakami** » Mon Jul 02, 2007 10:59 pm

About the only way to know is if the manufacturer put a date code somewhere on the battery. As I have not seen anyone do that, then the next-best solution is to get a voltmeter and measure the voltage from the battery. A fresh lithium battery should be around 3.3 volts.

nikki605 · #6 Post by **nikki605** » Tue Jul 03, 2007 8:59 am

Please give us some feedback when you get the batteries and who you bought them from. Some of us (like me) need to replace our CMOS battery and are looking for a good, reliable source.

Thanks

ArtShapiro · #7 Post by **ArtShapiro** » Tue Jul 03, 2007 11:52 am

I've purchased several from the eBay seller 88tosell. The pricing is good and they come in the holder, unlike most, which saves a little bit of grief. (I've found the holders to be fragile).

While most of us don't have the necessary spot welder to make our own, I'm intrigued with the suggestion one person made, possibly here in the forums, to use the electrically conductive glue that auto parts stores sell to repair rear windshield defrosting grids. The battery itself is just a routinely available button cell - a 3025 or the like. But I personally haven't yet tried this.

Art

jadmire · #8 Post by **jadmire** » Wed Jul 04, 2007 5:43 pm

When I had to have the CMOS battery on my old 600e replaced in February, I went to the local Batteries Plus store (check their website for locations near you if you're in the US). They did a professional soldering job with the contacts and replaced the battery for the cost of a single CR2032 (about $3 including tax, as I recall). Only took about 5 minutes. I imagine the experience should be the same for you should you choose that route.

-Joe-

nikki605 · #9 Post by **nikki605** » Wed Jul 04, 2007 6:23 pm

WOW, interesting! I've only been in a Batteries Plus store once in my life - New Orleans, 6 months after Katrina. They didn't have the "custom" battery I needed for my digital camera. I didn't realize they did this kind of work.

Did they really solder the wire leads to the battery, or was it spot welded?

truk · #10 Post by **truk** » Wed Jul 04, 2007 11:47 pm

Thats an interesting point with Batteries plus, I might try that to save some hassle. Here, we solder button cells by using a good flux first. Usually though we buy pre-tabbed (tabs can be soldered) batteries at our local electronics store.

nikki605 · #11 Post by **nikki605** » Thu Jul 05, 2007 8:19 am

Pre-tabbed!?! That would be great! Can you be a little more specific, truk - what kind of "electronics stores" sells pre-tabbed batteries?

truk · #12 Post by **truk** » Thu Jul 05, 2007 7:49 pm

I get them at a place called ICC north. We used to find them at Radio Shack, but I haven't looked in a while.

braxx · #13 Post by **braxx** » Sat Jul 07, 2007 10:13 pm

Well, the batteries came today. They look just like the originals. Same PN's just a little longer wires by about 0.5".
So far I'd say they were a good deal at $2.95 each. Seller is: grtrunner02

Auction is: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... &rd=1&rd=1

nikki605 wrote:Please give us some feedback when you get the batteries and who you bought them from. Some of us (like me) need to replace our CMOS battery and are looking for a good, reliable source.

Thanks

nikki605 · #14 Post by **nikki605** » Sun Jul 08, 2007 8:23 am

Thanks for the feedback on the batteries and the eBay seller

I may just try it.

#15 Post by **Harryc** » Sun Jul 08, 2007 8:45 am

Sources for 'tabbed' CR2032's -

http://parts.digikey.com/1/parts/1263-b ... 321f4.html

http://www.action-electronics.com/batcomp.htm

http://www.mouser.com/search/refine.aspx?Ntt=614-CR2032

http://www.batterybob.com/product.asp?intProdID=399039

oxygen14 · #16 Post by **oxygen14** » Fri Jul 13, 2007 4:39 pm

I tried once to solder a wire to a dead CR2032 battery, it did not explode but suddendly inflated with a popping noise. It's dangerous, wear a mask or at least safety glasses and avoid the potential smokes if you want to try it.

pault · #17 Post by **pault** » Mon Jul 16, 2007 10:18 am

Maxell seem to do a range of CR2032 batteries some have various tabs and some come with wires connected, which seem to be a drop in replacement for T-series batteries.

It would be interesting to know if some tabs are better than others and whether anyone has been able to source and try any of the batteries with wires connected. Links are here:

http://www.maxell.co.jp/e/products/indu ... index.html
http://www.maxell.co.jp/e/products/indu ... 32tw_e.pdf

pault · #18 Post by **pault** » Mon Jul 16, 2007 10:29 am

One more thing, is it wise, sensible or possible to try a similar if slightly different battery for example a CR2025? I can get one with wires here:

http://shop.battex.cz/vyrobky/CR2025-WR.php

Sorry, that page is in Czech, but what the product is, is clearly visible

#19 Post by **Harryc** » Mon Jul 16, 2007 11:19 am

IIRC the T23 has a holder for the battery with tight tolerances. Even given that fact I don't think it is a good idea to try a differently spec'd battery.

#20 Post by **rkawakami** » Mon Jul 16, 2007 12:53 pm

The "CR" series of batteries are numbered according to their physical dimensions. For example, the CR2025 is 20mm in diameter and 2.5 mm in thickness. The CR2032 is the same 20mm diameter but 3.2 mm thick. Which is to say, a CR2025 will definitely fit in where a CR2032 is used (but it might be a little loose). HOWEVER, the more important fact is that the "25" battery has less current capacity than the "32" battery. That means, all other things being equal, the "25" battery would have to be replaced earlier than the "32" version.

nikki605 · #21 Post by **nikki605** » Wed Sep 19, 2007 8:10 am

The 6-year old CMOS battery in my T21 finally died

go figure. Following the advice in this topic, I took the old battery, still in its plastic frame, to my local Batteries Plus store in Tampa. They took a stock CR2032 into their workshop and $7.48 later, came out with the new battery installed in the original plastic frame, complete with new shrink wrap to prevent shorts.

When I got home, I quickly checked it with a voltmeter and found 3V, with the correct polarity. I popped it back in the T21, powered it up, went into CMOS setup, corrected the date & time and booted. A couple of complete power downs and restarts to prove it was holding the date & time and I was back in business.

Nice job!

aditya1956 · #22 Post by **aditya1956** » Wed Sep 19, 2007 3:11 pm

In the absence of an original or a pre-soldered battery, it is possible to connect a 2032/2025 button cell electrically to a pair of suitable tabs without doing any soldering job on the battery. Any standard super glue will do the job right both electrically and machanically as well. At the first thought it seems the glue will not do the electrical connection properly as it remains sandwitched in between. But in reality it actually does establish a direct physical contact between the plates and that to with very low resistivity. I have used this on many occasions for connecting many things from condenser_mic capsule grids to palm_top backups etc etc.

To make a good electrical contact, just scratch both the surfaces with a sharp knife to make them a little rough, and after putting the glue drop (very little), just press the tab on the cell with a slight rotational sqeeze and hold it there for a few soconds and its done. Do the same for the other side. The tabs can be connected to the wires before as well.

Updated- What battery do I buy to replace my CMOS batteries?

Updated- What battery do I buy to replace my CMOS batteries?

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