T 23 not charging

[Indy452]

I have a T23 1.13 PIII 14" that I received from a friend who works on computers.
<Admin note: restricted topic removed>.

Well, What I didn't realize was the charge circuit or whatever you call it must be shot..The battery will not charge and the battery indicator light stays yellow.

My question is, Is it feasible to repair this? Is it something that will require special soldering irons? I know where it is, I believe its the rounded square module under the mouse buttons?? It was slightly loose. The board is double sided so not sure if thats something a novice should attempt or not.

I could change the m-board but thought I would check with you folks first..

Otherwise its a great fully function-able laptop.

Neal

[Unknown_K]

There is a large inductor on the top side of the circuit board that will cause that issue if it has a bad solder joint (bouncing around in shipping will cause that). Do a forum search and you will find information about that issue.

[rkawakami]

The black rounded square is called an inductor. That it has come loose from the motherboard is very likely the problem with why the battery is not being charged. You will need a fine-tipped soldering iron, of about 25 watts. It is a little difficult with getting the tip of the iron down among the other components that surround the inductor but it can be done. You should also get some "solder wick" and the smallest diameter solder you can find (0.5mm is just right).

What you need to do before soldering the inductor back on the board is the clean off the black film that is probably on both metal pads on the bottom side of the inductor. That can be done by removing any existing solder on the pad (there's probably very little given the inductors I've replaced before). Put the end of the solder wick against the pad and apply heat to the wick. The solder will melt and then attach itself to the wick, leaving the metal pad relatively solder-free. Do the same to other inductor pad and also to the two pads on the motherboard, but don't heat them up too long - 5 seconds should be enough for each application. Using a small flat-bladed screwdriver, scrape the black film off the pads of the inductor until you see the copper underneath. Apply a very tiny amount of solder to the inductor's pads; enough to make a silver covering without it beading up too much. Place the inductor over the two pads on the motherboard and then heat up the side of the inductor, applying some slight pressure on the top of the inductor with tweezers or pliers; the metal pad on the bottom bends up around each side of the inductor. The heat being conducted from the side needs to reach and melt the solder on the bottom. This can take up to 10 seconds or so. Usually, when the solder melts, the inductor drops down slightly. Remove the iron and allow the junction to cool for several seconds. Repeat the process on the other side.

If you are not comfortable with doing this, find a local TV or computer repair shop and show them what's loose. Having the system already disassembled (keyboard and palmrest/keyboard bezel) will save you some labor charges.

[Indy452]

Wow, great info thanks....

Sorry, I guess I should have searched.. I found more great info...looks like this is a common issue.

Thanks again.