Upgrading a T30, seeking advice.

[konstantin.neo2]

I have a T30 2366-ES1 stock specs with 1.6GHz, 256MB ram, bios ver 2.10, embedded controller 1.07. I would like to upgrade it a bit to have a decent laptop. I am not sure about system board version.

I ve read the posts about 2.4GHz cpu running hot, if I would to swap a SL6VC instead of my current 1.6GHz cpu, should I upgrade to a different heat sink/fan? Slotting the mini-pci cover would help I guess. Although the more I read the more I am leaning towards getting a 2.0GHz P4M instead.

About the memory upgrade, 2GB would be the best option I guess, could I use just any 1GB PC2100 SODIMM memory modules or there are some limitations about HI/LOW density ram? What about PC2700?

I believe my T30 has the stock 30GB hard drive, the lowest capacity drive I can get with my supplier is a WESTERN 120GB 5400RPM 2.5" IDE, I guess it would work fine with the T30.

Also my T30 has something weird with its left mouse button, sometimes it would not work, sometimes it works but its unpredictable and can click all by itself which is not good.

The modem is not useful for me anymore, would it be safe to remove it and saving the little juice it consumed?

When doing the upgrade should I update the bios or embedded controller specifying the newer parts? Its unclear to me. The battery only holds charge for 20minutes, I have opened the pack but haven't disassembled the cells yet. I read some post about swapping newer 18650 cells into the battery pack without disconnecting the controller. Have anyone here done it with good results? I mean that the battery would recharge
to full and battery meter working properly?

About the wifi card, what would be a good choice for using it with or without security on WinXP, plus compatible with BT3 and aircrack. I like the RL8187 chipset although the mini-pci cards mostly have Atheros chipsets. I guess I would have to use the no-1802 utility with "non compatible" cards.

[RealBlackStuff]

Welcome to the Forum.

The best CPU for a T30 is the 2.0GHz, anything higher runs hot!
You can use any PC2100 or PC2700 (=cheaper) Sodimms. They will however always run at PC2100 speed.
You can put in a PATA/IDE/EIDE/ATA (all the same) 2.5" hard disk up to 320GB, anything but SATA!

Switch the laptop off and remove the powercord.
Put a small screwdriver or a flat knife (at the front) between the left mousekey and metal keyboard base, then lift it up gently, the front should pop up.
Do the same with the right mouse key. Underneath you will find a small round piece of silicon. Swap the left and right pieces, then push the mousekeys back in place. This is only a temporary solution. You can buy single complete (mouse)keys on eBay.

You can remove the modem without problems.
Your BIOS and ECP are already the latest, no need to update.
Don't mess around with that battery, it contains very flammable Lithium-Ion. Look around in our Market forum for a replacement, or buy one off eBay.

Get yourself an Intel 2200BG MiniPCI wifi card, most people have excellent results with it. You will need the No-1802 hack.

[jronald]

I have and continue to run several T30's
2.0 Ghtz on the processor is the sweet spot. Unless you are really leaning on the RAM 1.25Mbtz is the sweet spot. Neither of these mods will set you back a fortune.
Look for the "raised" memory cover and the "slotted" wireless cover in the long both will add benefits.
RBS prefers Intel wireless I prefer Atheros. Either will do the job fine. Dont worry about buying the brand name card. Most of my Atheros are from Toshibas. Run the Factory (Intel/Atheros) drivers and you get a cheap card and the best drivers (about $5.00 shipped) I have Re-Celled a T30 battery but it is a royal PITA.
Upgrade to at least a 5400 RPM Hard Drive you will be amazed
Of course your mileage may very

Ron

[konstantin.neo2]

Thanks RBS and jronald.
Actually the upgrade is quite cheap I would say, the SL6FK goes about 10bucs, the memory around 80 for 2 gigs.
What I read on forums is that the performance would get much better after I get a new hard drive in, 5400rmp and 8bm cache.

Could you elaborate on how you went about changing the 18650 cells. Did you removed the power from the charger controller circuits?
I believe there are some software that reads the state of the charger controller eeprom.

Is battery re-celling discussion against forum rules or something?

[RealBlackStuff]

It's not against the rules, it's to protect you from a potential danger.
The danger lies in the extremely difficult ways to solder this type of battery.
When overheating during soldering, they can easily explode or catch fire.
You have been warned!

[konstantin.neo2]

I actually followed your advice RBS and searched on ebay a battery that "lasts at least 2 hours" for $25.
Hopefully it will deliver the promise. Otherwise I could get some 18650 2400mAh LiIon cells for about $9 a piece.


What is the "PITA" that your battery is giving to you jronald?
Yeah soldering a battery isn't that simple.

[jronald]

PITA
Trying to get all the leads going the correct way in the T20/T30 is impossible. It can be done, but your not going to enjoy it. The long thin batteries line up and dont give any hassles. This is what I have used in all of mine 18650 with tabs
http://www.all-battery.com/4pcstenergyl ... htabs.aspx
With careful soldering and some creative bending I have made them work. For the T series buy the cheapest you can get, because if you mess up, you have not lost anything.
I actually used a new/flat screw driver and "scraped" the seams until I could get into the battery, trying to cut your way in will damage the old cells (leaks). Line everything up, and reassemble, use electrical tape to hold it together for the time being. If you wire something backwards you get instant heat, as in melt down. Plug it in and hold it for at least 30 mins while it starts charging, watch/feel for heat. Warm is OK, hot is a problem. It will take several charges and dis-charges before the electronics figure out the battery is "working" normal. It will not change the number of cycles or the first used date, but it will change from red to green after 10 or so.
After you feel comfortable it is working, use hot glue on all of the seams, let it harden trim the excess and remove the tape. Glue the area under the tape. The later ones I have done you can not tell have ever been opened. They get roughly 3/4 to 7/8 of the time a new battery has. That said, your going to spend as much reworking the old battery as you will a good used one. YMMV!

Ron

[konstantin.neo2]

Well I have received my ebay purchases, namely a 2.0GHz cpu, 2 sticks of 1GB PC2700 ram, INTELPRO wireless 2200BG and a battery. Also installed a 160GB hard drive.

I was told to purchase the 2200BG and I naively thought that any 2200BG would do, alas I had to use the no-1802 solution because I didnt bought the "one", the official IBM one.
After reading some about this matter I have decided to flash the wireless with the pci id of the IBM approved card, just cant find that number.

While I was upgrading the cpu, I removed the hot air output grill and removed one of the thin horizontal plastic bars to allow for more throughput. I used some AS5 paste and applied it as shown in the manuals.

I disassembled the keyboard bezel to find out if I could fix the faulty left mouse button but the pcb is soldered with plastic pins and I did not dared to remove it. I did remove the keys from the top and there are some plastic hinges that I dont know how to remove to get to the squishi pad. Too bad. I need to fix it.

Of course the second ram slot did not recognized the second GB of ram and I used my magnifier lamp to inspect the pins, visually I could not see any difference, but after poking with the exacto knife I found some pins that would bend, I applied some heat with my soldering iron only on those pins I felt moving and the second GB was recognized, for a couple of boots, now windows says 1GB, I have retouched the solder joints but sometimes I get 1GB others 2GB.

Installed Solidworks and made a simple part, ok.
Been using Firefox and its absolutely acceptable, I am watching some streams from http://www.livestream.com/ and posting on the forums, no problems.

I have seen docking stations pretty cheap and supposedly new. What are they good for?

[RealBlackStuff]

Once you apply the NO-1802 hack,there's no need to also flash the card.
The hack is completely harmless, does not interfere with anything, and is way easier & quicker to apply than a card-flashing.
Just heating up the RAM slot connectors/pins does not do anything.
You need to apply flux as well to properly reconnect the slot-contacts with the motherboard.
Plenty postings about this in this forum.

Docking stations are handy to install external items on a permanent basis, such as a full keyboard, an external monitor, a printer, a mouse, a PCI card even.
This if you also want to take your laptop elsewhere, and don't want to hook everything up every time.

[konstantin.neo2]

Hi RBS, thanks for reminding me about the flux, I actually had that in mind for my shopping list but it slipped out, I was thinking about some liquid flux.

About the mini pci card I know that no-1802 tool will fix it until I remove all the batteries but then I will have to apply that again and its an extra step if the change can be made permanent by just flashing the wifi adapter once.
Isnt this pci id would work for an Intel 2200BG: 8086 4220 8086:2711 or 8086:2712

[RealBlackStuff]

The No-1802 hack is made in the BIOS. It will stay there as long as you have a working (small yellow) CMOS battery attached.
So no need to redo it anytime soon, as those batteries can last for 5 years or more...

And look for a Chemtronix CW8100 "No Clean Flux Dispensing Pen"

[jronald]

While it is open to debate, you can make a temporary fix on the RAM by shimming the bad module. After I have fixed the soldering, I shim (just to cure the what ifs).

Ron

[CoolT30]

What about HDD firmware upgrades?
http://www-307.ibm.com/pc/support/site. ... 62282.html

[RealBlackStuff]

Not worth it.

[konstantin.neo2]

After trying to fix the faulty 2nd ram slot I had to unsolder it totally. There is a small niche that if solder flows between the pins, it would be near impossible to remove it. Happened to me and 2 were shorted and it was impossible to see.
I could fill these spaces with something before attempting to resolder the slot in place.

[RealBlackStuff]

Look for desoldering braid.

[jronald]

Or a Soldapult!
http://www.hmcelectronics.com/cgi-bin/s ... syn-DS017/

Ron