I'll edit this post as needed to keep it up to date. R6x people, sorry, but you'll have to look in here for it, this is usually done on a T60p, so...
What machines can the QXGA panel work in?
All 15.0" 60 machines - R60e, R60, T60, T60p
Possibly all 15.0" 61 machines - R61i, R61 (has anyone tested this?)
Frankenstein machines using a 60/61 15.0" chassis and a 60/61 14.1" standard screen motherboard (T61p motherboard in T60p case is most common, but others may work)
What hardware do I need to buy?
If you have an XGA machine, I would recommend buying the SXGA+/UXGA inverter for your model. For the R6x machines, this is 41W1467. For the T60, this is 42T0079. Obviously, you'll need to buy the screen, which goes under several different part numbers, I'll list them in the next question. Otherwise, no additional hardware is needed - unlike the R5x and T4x machines, the 6x machines use the same cable and hinges for all screens, and uses an EDID ROM chip on the LCD to detect the screen resolution and that the panel is a Lenovo panel (which will have to be worked around.)
What part numbers translate to this screen?
There are two different screens that are otherwise identical, that will work for this. I'm currently trying to find datasheets, though, there may be additional panels that will work. IDTech part numbers are listed first, followed by IBM part numbers.
IAQX10S, 92P6673, 92P6684
IAQX10S is the panel that IBM used in the R50p equipped with this screen. I believe the IAQX10 (not listed yet) was used by NEC in the Versa Pro VA20S/AE (way back in 2002) and the IAQX10N possibly used in a certain configuration of the LaVie G Type C in 2005.
The IAQX10N is what's flooded the market - if you don't mind a refurbished panel, you can get one as low as $59. New ones are as low as $139. Either one will work, though, so if you've got a cheap IAQX10S (or even an old one from a R50p that you want to move over,) go for it.
So what's this about an EDID ROM?
Most monitors have a ROM containing Extended Display Information Data, or EDID. This information is used by the machine that the monitor is connected to, so as to provide resolution, timing, and manufacturer information. The R5x and T4x machines stored this information in the BIOS, I believe, and used a set of resistors in the LCD cable to choose which EDID the system would operate with.
The 6x machines change this. They store the EDID info in a chip on the LCD that's meant for this purpose, and also have a vendor string in the LCD. The purpose of that vendor string is to identify the LCD panel as a Lenovo genuine panel, and the machine refuses to recognize the LCD if it's not Lenovo.
Here is the current EDID data as of 2009-06-22, created by cirthix with some information from Troels:
Code: Select all
EDID BYTES: 0x 00 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 0A 0B 0C 0D 0E 0F ------------------------------------------------ 00 | 00 FF FF FF FF FF FF 00 30 AE 49 40 00 00 00 00 10 | 00 13 01 03 80 1E 16 78 EA BD 30 91 54 4F 8B 26 20 | 21 50 54 21 08 00 81 80 A9 40 01 01 01 01 01 01 30 | 01 01 01 01 01 01 29 40 00 50 80 00 05 60 20 10 40 | 13 00 30 E4 10 00 00 19 29 40 00 40 80 00 05 60 50 | 20 10 13 00 30 E4 10 00 00 19 00 00 00 0F 00 A9 60 | 43 32 A9 43 28 14 02 00 09 E5 00 00 00 00 00 FE 70 | 00 49 41 51 58 31 30 4E 20 51 58 47 41 0A 00 10
Do I need to make a reflash cable to do this mod?
No! Member cirthix has found a way to use the registered version of PowerStrip to perform the reflash, no additional hardware needed.
How do I do the mod?
The question you've all been waiting for. I personally did this mod on a T60p with bluetooth, but no WWAN. Your mileage may vary, especially if your system has WWAN. At least for a non-WWAN system, the Hardware Maintenance Manual's procedure is extremely complex compared to what's actually needed. Make sure you have a way to organize all screws, and make sure to note all cable routing.
1. Before touching any hardware, purchase a copy of PowerStrip, install it, reboot, and be sure that it starts up, and allows you to disable the tips on startup. That's enough to know it'll work. Then shut down the machine.
2. Remove the three round screw covers and screws on the LCD bezel.
3. GENTLY pop the LCD bezel loose. Set it aside.
4. Now that the bezel is removed, you can lift the inverter up out of its well, and unplug the LCD from the inverter.
5. Remove the three rectangular screw covers and screws on each side of the LCD.
6. Being careful to note cable routing, slowly lift the LCD out of the cover, grabbing it from the bottom first, so as to clear the latches.
7. As soon as you can remove the cable from the back, STOP removing the LCD, and remove the tape, going from the top of the LCD to the bottom. Unplug by pulling down on the cable, carefully. You'll probably end up disengaging the ThinkLight, note how it goes into its holder. That's fine. If you didn't disengage it, go ahead and do so - it'll give you more cable to work with.
8. Now the old LCD is free. You'll need to remove the two rails from the old LCD, being sure to note the orientation.
9. Install the rails on the new LCD in the same orientation.
10. Here comes the fiddly part. Take the LCD cable, and fold it in an S shape (NOT SHARPLY, though) so that the ThinkLight cable is higher than it would be, plug it into the LCD, and tape it down.
11. Make sure the ThinkLight is above the LCD, and all cables displaced by removing the old LCD are put back into place, and guide the new LCD into place. Plug the LCD into the inverter, and make sure the inverter is roughly in place.
12. At this point, plug in an external monitor, power on the machine, and press Fn-F7 immediately to switch to the external monitor. Boot into Windows. Start PowerStrip, go to Options, and Monitor information. Go to Options at the bottom of the dialog, and select Update EDID. You will get a dialog saying "EEPROM Found:" and a monitor name. Be careful to not reflash your external monitor, which will most likely be the first thing that comes up - hit no, and reflash the other monitor that will come up (make sure it actually is different.) Use the qxga.dat file.
13. Now that the monitor's reflashed, shut the machine down, unplug the external monitor, and power back up. You should have a working display at this point. Either way, power the machine off. If you don't have a working display, make sure all connections are intact. If it's still not working, and the backlight is off, shine a flashlight at the LCD, to see if there's an image. If the backlight is on, try flashing the LCD again.
14. Insert the ThinkLight back into its holder - I believe you need to insert the back of it first. Make sure the LCD is fully installed, and that the inverter and all cables are in place.
15. Insert the screws that go on each side. You may have to push down slightly on the LCD to get the screw holes to line up.
16. Power the machine up again, and make sure it it's working. Yes, you're checking again. And make sure the inverter is lined up.
17. If all is good, go ahead and install the bezel. Be sure ALL the clips all around the LCD are clipped in, screw it down, and reinstall all the screw covers. Congratulations, you're done!
If there are any additions or corrections, post in this thread or PM me.
Edit 2009-06-23: The $115 price was determined to be an LCD that was both out of stock, and not actually the IDTech panel, but a drastically inferior Samsung panel. Still worth investigating whether that panel will work, but for now, I've revised the post to say $139.
Edit 2 2009-06-23: Added another part number for IAQX10S, revised the panel info, watch this space.