Thinkpads Forum

Yesterday I have made upgrade my T60p 4:3 Flexview to a T61 Frankenpad. The process went smooth, however when disassembling the structure frame, I had found that it was broken in corner right between the fan's corner and VGA output jack (on the attached picture it is denoted by a red circle).
Thought the computer is still workable, I am afraid that due to frequent LCD lid open / close cycles, the structure frame will be broken totally, or the motherboard will be strongly deformed.
In my opinion, I have 3 options to fix it:
1. Replace by a new structure frame (best options, but it is hard for me to find a structure frame in my country).
2. Try to bond the broken junction. I don't know it is reliable or not.
3. Put some oil into to left screen hinge to make it softer (my screen hinges are a bit hard). I think this option is risky and probably not applicable.
I would like to ask you for an advice, please !

This is a very common failure point in T60P's. Glue won't work so forget that. You can replace the frame and cross your fingers, but it will break again eventually. You cannot oil the hinges on a Thinkpad.

My experience is identical to Harryc's. This section of the T60 mobo frame was the weakest link in an otherwise near perfect laptop design. The 15" 4:3 T60 subframes break routinely. Many 14" 4:3 T60 subframes break, too. Basically, the weight and repeated opening stress from an LCD is just too much for that tiny, brittle section of the subframe.

I've superglued a couple, but without careful opening and closing of the LCD, the subframe separates again. Maybe some kind of weld is possible?

Also, you have to be very careful during disassembly and reassembly of the T60's, you can crack the frame just by articulating the LCD before the machine is fully assembled. Adding the fan, upper keyboard bezel, keyboard and palmrest slightly increase overall rigidity. Without them, cracking the subframe is even more likely. I cracked a new 15" subframe before I had the machine assembled - ouch!

On the positive side, I've yet to see a fractured 15.4" T60 subframe!

By the way, even when cracked, it's often hard to tell, assuming your LCD hinges are good. There is only slighly play on the left side of the machine.

One thing: carbon fibre. Requires some skill and probably costs a bit, but would probably fix it.

You may be able to use JB-Weld, it is stronger than super-glue

Bruce

Thank you very much for your reply.
I had tried to use superglue but without success. Now I am thinking about:

1. Find and use the so called "Fe A B" epoxy glue that is specially developed for bonding metal (and more important, is available in my country). I guess that beside the glue, I need to apply a supporting construction made from a thin metal list to make stronger junction.

2. Try to weld the broken junction. I hope that welding magnesium alloy is similar to welding aluminium?

One question I would like to ask: if I keep the broken structure frame and accurately open / close LCD lid, how long it will last (one year?) and will the motherboard be damaged?

1. You don't need a metal support back plate when you do the gluing, you can use fiberglass, or electrician tape. Metal plates will add to the complexity of the job and would not give you a stronger frame.

2. Don't wield magnesium, it will cause an intense fire.

Binh wrote:I am afraid that due to frequent LCD lid open / close cycles, the structure frame will be broken totally, or the motherboard will be strongly deformed.

Will it really, though? With so many reports of broken T60 frames in that area - does anyone have evidence or even a hunch of actual functional damage it can do to the laptop?

Tiny digression, can this be the case with x60[s] too ? The strong hinge looks like they bend the back of the case. The palmrest has a crack above the heatsink .. how much is it responsible for the integrity of the whole laptop ?

DON'T WELD MAGNESIUM. Magnesium burns easily and very hot, and trying to put the fire out with water makes it worse.

richk wrote:DON'T WELD MAGNESIUM. Magnesium burns easily and very hot, and trying to put the fire out with water makes it worse.

Thank richk and lead_org for warning about fire when welding magnesium !
Currently I am thinking only about gluing, however, did not find a suitable glue.

dr_st wrote: Will it really, though? With so many reports of broken T60 frames in that area - does anyone have evidence or even a hunch of actual functional damage it can do to the laptop?

So can I keep the broken frame as it is? Do you mean the probability of damage will be relatively small?

I don't know. This is why I was asking for an opinion of more experienced forum members.

I don't know either, but I can tell you that I have a T60p with a broken cage in that spot and a new cage is on order. If someone could come up with a way to strengthen that area it would be awesome.

My adventure ended up by buying a new structure frame on this ebay auction. It cost me 61 USD despite the initial price of only 22 USD: I have to pay a lot of money for shipping and service fee to get it in Vietnam

The most interesting is that when I got the frame, it has P/N 41W6360 instead of 26R9396 that is listed in ebay auction and that was broken on my T60p. Mine was manufactured in April 2006, while the new one was manufactured in August 2006. Comparing 41W6360 with 26R9396, I had found that Lenovo modified the new one a bit: the area around VGA port of 41W6360 is ~2 times thicker than that of 26R9396. Therefore, my guess is that Lenovo known about the bug in the middle of 2006 year, and those T60/p with the new structure frame will be less prone to crack.

Pictures for comparison will be posted later.

Same thing happened to my T60. Actually the whole piece broke off and came out.

I used JB-Weld.

You can put on extra then file off the excess for clearance. Be sure to let it harden completely (48 hours).

It has been rock solid for a few weeks now.

JB-Weld is some good stuff drillable, thread-able. Also works well in high temperature environments like, an engine block for a car.

I'm really interested in seeing pictures in regards to changes made to the structure frames. Please keep us up to date!

Also, I had stripped a screw hole in my T61p's structure frame and couldn't threadlock it or anything, so in the end, it ended up bothering me so much that I purchased a new structure frame from Lenovo...

Kamika007z wrote:I'm really interested in seeing pictures in regards to changes made to the structure frames. Please keep us up to date!

Here are pictures for comparing old (26R9396) and new (41W6360) structure frame for 15" 4:3 T60:
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-vTHE ... F_comp.jpg
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ZTNR ... _Comp1.jpg

Hi All,

I recently came across this problem on a T60p 15" I purchased for a frankenpad conversion and figured I would share a simple fix I came up with. Although I am going to replace the frame on my build, I tested an idea I had to put a small screw through the plastic case into the broken frame to see how much of a difference it made, and it did make a BIG difference to stop the flexing. its not pretty, but it works well, is hardly noticeable, cheap and a lot less work than replacing the frame.

Pics of the fix and also a comparison between the old and updated frames can be found here:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1092670054 ... directlink#

A couple notes:

- I used a 1/8" drill and a screw that fit tight without threading the hole.
- remove the CPU fan before doing this as the shavings from the drill will get into the foam sealing pads (i did not remove the cpu fan in the photos, but you absolutely should!)
- it would be best to use some thin plastic sheeting and masking tape to seal off all the interals to prevent any shavings from getting into your system.
- do not use a tapered screw for a flush mount, it would probably elongate the hole after sustained use.
- use a small clamp to hold the frame and plastic cover tightly together when drilling so you know the holes are aligned.

again, its a hack which I hate to reccomend, but its low cost and effective.

Best,

Bill