Thinkpads Forum

I bought an X61 Tablet with an SXGA+ screen for the purpose of converting my X61s to SXGA+. (Removing the glued-on digitizer glass, indeed, is an adventure.)

I've read numerous posts about this conversion and I am curious why no one uses the X61T motherboard in the X61s. This post seems to indicate that it would fit:
http://forum.thinkpads.com/viewtopic.ph ... 75&start=0

If the X61T motherboard fits in the X61s, it seems like no converter cable would be necessary, yes? I haven't tried it yet; I couldn't find any record of anyone attempting this, and I suspect there is some good reason why.

Thanks!

The tablet board will fit. It is physically identical, and will work on a non-tablet ultrabase.

However, you will lose some functions: thinklight, microphone, bluetooth, indicator led for capslock, battery, power and standby.

And you still have to use the converter cable. Non-tablet screens work OOTB. On the board the pinout for the screen is the same on both - the tablet has the extension cable card that does the conversion.

Would you please describe how you removed the glass and any problems you encountered?

Thanks for the reply. So there seems to be no advantage to using the X61T motherboard.

To remove the glass, I used the technique described on this German site:

http://translate.google.com/translate?h ... annel%3Dfs

I did not use the resin paper he describes, but instead thin strips of plastic from a 3-ring binder. I used a heat gun to periodically warm the LCD. Here are some videos of the process (not mine):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v0TuebKmCIw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KwvZ86JF0eA

The videos are deceptive - it took forever.

The videos might be just a little bit deceptive. I simply have had more practice. They´re mine.
Nice to know it worked for you.

Thanks so much for the videos! It was very helpful - I wouldn't have attempted it otherwise.

I did find that cutting a sawtooth pattern (like a bandsaw blade) into the edge of the plastic strips helped to make the process go more quickly. I could see that each sawtooth helped to displace the glue a bit better.

I did the whole process with the machine on, so that I could tell if I was applying too much pressure to the screen.

In the spirit of Halloween, I thought I'd resurrect this thread.

I just bought an X61 tablet to do the SXGA+ conversion on my X60, so I thought it would be a good opportunity to get 64-bit support and to be able to use VirtualBox and 4GB of RAM (or 8GB!!!). After all the board was free with the screen, right?

(There's another one on US eBay right now for $120...)

Here's my experience so far putting X61T board into an X60 case: (the OP's board was an X61s, which would be the same as an X60s)

• The board is basically identical.
• Because it's an X60 case and the X61 tablet board is basically an X61s board, the low-profile heatsink/heatpipe/fan assembly is too "short" to contact the bottom of the case. The bigger heatsink/fan from an X60 or X61 is needed for a solid fit. This is a good thing anyway, as it should help it run cooler.
• I had to use the power/SATA mini-board from the X60 motherboard as the one attached to the tablet board didn't fit
• The fingerprint reader works perfectly (the location of the connector on the board is the same)
• The wifi on/off switch and LED works perfectly
• HDD activity indicator works

wileE wrote:...you will lose some functions: thinklight, microphone, bluetooth, indicator led for capslock, battery, power and standby.

I have found this to only be mostly correct.

• Thinklight does NOT work (this is disappointing, how hard is that to fix?)
• haven't tested microphone, but I trust wileE on that one
• bluetooth obviously doesn't work since there is no room for the hardware
• Capslock and Numlock LEDs both do not work.
• The LED indicating that the AC power is plugged in does not work.
• However, the battery, "power on" and "standby" LEDs ALL DO WORK!

The Thinklight is the only one I'm really bummed about.

I have tried with both the Middleton X61 tablet BIOS and the Middleton X61 (regular) BIOS. I thought (incorrectly) that flashing the X61 BIOS would allow the Thinklight to work.

It did allow me to install an Intel 6235 Adavanced N wireless card, though, and upgrade my SSD to SATA II speeds!

Overall, I'm pretty happy with this part of the project.

Unfortunately, this tablet (and the one currently on eBay) are both X61s, and both have the 101 screen with the awful pine-sap goo that @benm was describing, and I'm really having trouble with it.

I do think this is worth doing, though. I love my x60 (now x61). The new x240 that just came out can only hold 8GB of RAM and can only support 1366x768. (you'd think they could at least to 1680x1050???) (EDIT: As of Feb. 2014, the x240 can now be configured with FHD 1920x1080, and the X1 Carbon can be configured with "Retina" resolution of 2560x1440!!!)

I like the x60 form factor, and don't really want to upgrade to a 14" (although the new T440s with Full-HD IPS looks really nice).

I would like a back-lit keyboard, but not enough to give up the ins, del, home, end keys being in the "right" place!

Just thought I'd share my experience.

-Wes

Watched the video's.

What a pain in the butt.

What did you finally use to remove and clean the last little bits and film after the bulk of the glue was removed?

Just got the glass off (in 2 pieces!) it took about an hour of solid work with my wife holding a hair dryer and me using WD-40 and pieces of a vinyl report cover from an office supply store.

Now to work on this goop...

I've got it covered with flour, but I think it's going to need more WD-40 and more heat.

I just need to be careful not to get WD-40 into the panel...

For actually removing the goop WD40 won't help. The stuff called "waschbenzin" will work, just don't get it near the the connector ribbons at the top and the side...

I need some advice on how to proceed with this mod.

I have basically ruined the LCD panel, and want to know if I can "save" it.

First of all, I accidentally dislodged one of the 3 ribbon cables from the left side of the panel when I was removing the glass. It is NOT torn, and it looks like I can just stick it back on there, but I'm wondering how precise these things are. Does it have to be at exactly the right spot on the panel? There is no "connector" that it snaps into, just adhesive that holds it to the panel.

Second, I removed the "goop" by peeling up the front polarizing film that covers the panel, not realizing what I was doing. It looks like this could be an acceptable replacement, if I cut it properly.

Finally, the rear polarizing film (on the backlight side of the LCD) looks like it has been damaged by the alcohol solution I used to clean the panel. It looks like some alcohol got between the film and the LCD. I can't find the rear film for purchase. I wonder if I can "squeeze" the alcohol out, or if I have to replace it.

So...

...should I give up? Or is this fixable?

-Wes

Posting some pics can help our fellow thinkpadders determine if it's fixable or not.

I have basically ruined the LCD panel, and want to know if I can "save" it.

No.

Damage to the ribbon cables can only be fixed for an economically insane price.
And peeling off the front polarizer is a very bad idea. You wont see anything on the display without it.

Thanks for the replies.

I'll try to post some pictures soon.

The ribbon cable isn't "damaged". It is clearly held on with an adhesive, and sticking it back on makes it work, sort of. I was wondering how perfect it needs to be in order to work properly.

I can see the screen just fine while wearing my polarized sunglasses

Looks like I may be the Guinea pig for this.

waldo22 wrote:Looks like I may be the Guinea pig for this.

I already ruined a panel and my dissapointment made me just stop in my tracks for the project.
I messed up both X61s and tablet cable trying to salvage one of them.
I modified an X61s lid with scraping a bit too much, and when it came to the LCD tabs on the side, I broke one of them which I think stopped making it work.

Seeing that there are LED kits for the X61s' backlight, I thought about doing it again, but I'll need another cable for this unit. I'll try with an XGA unit first before I bite the bullet.