Thinkpads Forum

jp776 wrote: Is it right, that I can bridge the both aux power pads to have more space to solder the wire?
And any hints how to cut out the space on the lid? I have a Dremel. Or would a sharp heavy knife do the same job?

Yes, you can. See updated manual.
Regarding the cutouts, see this album.

I'm so ready, I have my X230 sitting on standby!

I think I have asked this before:
What does this sense wire do?

nitrocaster wrote: Yes, you can. See updated manual.
Regarding the cutouts, see this album.

That thing with the resistor on i7 motherboards scares me a little bit Is it really safe to remove it? Do i have to solder it out, or just rip it of?

nitrocaster wrote: Regarding the cutouts, see this album.

Ty - this looks now really great.
I can't see any cutouts at the LCD Front Bezel - does it means this is not necessary?

jp776 wrote:

nitrocaster wrote: Regarding the cutouts, see this album.

Ty - this looks now really great.
I can't see any cutouts at the LCD Front Bezel - does it means this is not necessary?

The active area of the display should be the same size as the stock one, only the increase from 1366x768 to 1920x1080 in
resolution. So, i don't think you need to cut the screen bezel, if you get the recommanded panel for this mod.

@nitrocaster really great job! am looking for your progresssive.

How did you cut out top cover like that, I mean what's equipment?

And today I got my screen looking forward

StefanKo wrote:I think I have asked this before:
What does this sense wire do?

It detects video signal presence.

jabavox wrote:How did you cut out top cover like that, I mean what's equipment?

I used some sort of scriber to cut incisions and then applied brute force to break the pieces off. File works good for precise adjustment and sharp edge smoothing. One of early buyers used a dremel with a diamond cutter - that should do the job just fine.

StefanKo wrote:That thing with the resistor on i7 motherboards scares me a little bit Is it really safe to remove it? Do i have to solder it out, or just rip it of?

You can remove it with a solder blob, or you can use a very sharp and thin blade to shave if off the board.

any rough plan when the kits will be ready?

peregrinus wrote:any rough plan when the kits will be ready?

Customs clearance will take about 10-15 days.

My LCD from China arrived, took only 11 days!

In your instruction manual it says:

3. Apply insulation tape to the back side of the adapter board. Make sure to make holes for docking
connector pins and the nearby components.
4. Install and solder the adapter board to the motherboard.

Can you perhaps mark which docking pins on Figure 3?
Are there only those 7 brass holes to be soldered, as seen on Figure 7 and the 7 soldered points above X230_U on Figure 10?
What are the dimensions of your PCB?

nitrocaster wrote: You can remove it with a solder blob, or you can use a very sharp and thin blade to shave if off the board.

Thank you, i removed it with a blade, it seems that everything is still working without problems.
But i'm curious, what is this resistor exactly for? Why is it just on i7 motherboards?

prime07 wrote:

nitrocaster wrote: You can remove it with a solder blob, or you can use a very sharp and thin blade to shave if off the board.

Thank you, i removed it with a blade, it seems that everything is still working without problems.
But i'm curious, what is this resistor exactly for? Why is it just on i7 motherboards?

It's connects -USB_30_LED signal from dock to ground. Apparently some dock stations have LED that lights up when USB3 is supported. X220 with i3 and i5 CPUs don't have this resistor so that LED would not light up.

RealBlackStuff wrote: Can you perhaps mark which docking pins on Figure 3?

You'll have to punch each hole that has mating docking connector pin.

RealBlackStuff wrote: Are there only those 7 brass holes to be soldered, as seen on Figure 7 and the 7 soldered points above X230_U on Figure 10?
What are the dimensions of your PCB?

Above X230_U there's only 7 plated-through holes to be soldered.

PCB dimensions are 16.4x43.1 mm.

Thanks, that's exactly what I wanted to know.
You may want to put that info in your PDF.

nitrocaster wrote:...

RealBlackStuff wrote:You may want to put that info in your PDF.

+1

And maybe some "tips and hints" for soldering newbies like me...

Edit: meaning tips for this specific mod...

Tasurinchi wrote:

nitrocaster wrote:...

RealBlackStuff wrote:You may want to put that info in your PDF.

+1

And maybe some "tips and hints" for soldering newbies like me...

In internet there are many videos explaining how to do the soldering stuff but you can start with the OLD basics

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f9RiXMf3z7A

I don't mean generic stuff/videos, I agree there are plenty of them in youtube & co.

I mean more practical do's & don'ts regarding this specific mod, RBS question was a good example. In the PDF file, step 4, it just says "Install and solder the adapter board to the motherboard", while that maybe self explanatory for an experienced person, it wasn't clear to me exactly what to solder.

Tasurinchi wrote:I don't mean generic stuff/videos, I agree there are plenty of them in youtube & co.

I mean more practical do's & don'ts regarding this specific mod, RBS question was a good example. In the PDF file, step 4, it just says "Install and solder the adapter board to the motherboard", while that maybe self explanatory for an experienced person, it wasn't clear to me exactly what to solder.

I missunderstood you then, but Nitrocaster actually mentioned before :

nitrocaster wrote:

RealBlackStuff wrote: Can you perhaps mark which docking pins on Figure 3?

You'll have to punch each hole that has mating docking connector pin.

RealBlackStuff wrote: Are there only those 7 brass holes to be soldered, as seen on Figure 7 and the 7 soldered points above X230_U on Figure 10?
What are the dimensions of your PCB?

Above X230_U there's only 7 plated-through holes to be soldered.

PCB dimensions are 16.4x43.1 mm.

For this mod we should ignore the blatant mistake that the European Union made in 2003, when they introduced lead-free RoHS.
http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/rohs-explained/
On this forum we all know too well the disasters that were caused, such as the GPU and Southbridge chips that became unstuck on T4x motherboards.
And what about the inductors of the T23 that kept falling off?
(NO) Thanks RoHS...

For best results, I recommend to use old-style rosin core 60/40 solder (60% tin / 40% lead) with a diameter of ca. .032"/0.8mm, together with a 30-40W soldering iron with fine tip.
Or get a Stahl SSVT soldering station, such as what I use:

Combine that with a solder tip cleaner like this:

and you're good to go.

Where do I send my money?

My X220 has been waiting years for this. I guess now thanks to your keyboard firmware I can now also dust off the X230.

It's going to be a good Christmas .

Off to ebay to order my screen now.

Can't thank you enough for your contributions to the community!

So, my Thinkpad is on his way to arrive and now I have to order my FHD screen.
I'll go for SPB4, mostly for bigger number of colors than SPB3.

Anyone in this thread that bought the screen from seller indicated from Nitrocaster (name is win0win)?
I would go to make an offer to the seller. Anyone that has made an offer and bought the screen in order to suggest me how much offer to the seller?

Thanks in advance.


P.S. Nitro, we are waiting to you all! Thanks always for your work!

I got my -SPB4 from winowin, who accepted my offer.
It would be unfair to seller to disclose my accepted price!
Try negotiating yourself, you have 3 chances.

Nitrocaster should get comission from win0win. Because of this mod-kit, he will sell a whole bunch of these screens

RealBlackStuff wrote:I got my -SPB4 from winowin, who accepted my offer.
It would be unfair to seller to disclose my accepted price!
Try negotiating yourself, you have 3 chances.

Same here, though I got -SPB3 due to not specifying any real preference. I never go insultingly low on offers - I send in offers I myself would accept on similar products, and it works out to the advantage of both me and the seller.

I wanted to support a UK seller (as I live here too) and having the remote option of returning the screens. I was however, literally blocked of ANY kind of request (screen type, not price, mind you):
"I am sorry we do not participate in conversations like this, it is best you find an alternate supplier as I cannot promise any particular part number."
Oh really? Okay.

So, actually I was happy to pay the asking price of win0win who were kind enough to secure me two SPB4s.. the LCDs are en route! I did some reasonable haggling on the X230 but as mentioned, only offered what I would have accepted as seller.

Guys, thanks for the answers!
Obviously I wouldnt speculate on the seller's goodness. However I'm on budget and if i can save some money, it would be good. This is all.
I made an offer for SPB4 and I'm waiting for seller's answer. Finger crossed.

Nitro, do you think that within Christmas we will have our desired NitroPCB ?

Leosleo wrote:Nitro, do you think that within Christmas we will have our desired NitroPCB ?

I'm trying my best!

Guys, I suspect this is a waiting game, as customs has to be cleared, no need to ping Nitro too much

..but... I'm waiiiiting!