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WIP DIY x320, what I learned so far
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WIP DIY x320, what I learned so far
Let me say, this is a pain. The screens are fragile, you will break them and you'll cry. Now that's said...
Using LQ133M1JW02 and LQ133M1JW03, both compatible with nitrocaster's mod. 03 has connector on the wrong side, a 30 pin side switcher / longer cable would be needed.
You can remove only the sides of the metal casing if you run it firmly against a metal ruler with a x-acto knife ~10 times then just roll it off :
http://imgur.com/JwdThov
http://imgur.com/lu9G12j
To be fair that was the first side of the first screen, I got better at this.
Then I used 320 sanding paper glued (3m spray thingy) to a plexiglass panel as a "flat surface".
I finished with the x-acto to get as close as possible to the glass panel on the right.
http://imgur.com/Kgps3CU
The 03 plastic is way more x-acto friendly than the 02. That's when I broke the 02. Can still be tested for fit, but missing ~20-30 columns.
Top view 02 left cut
http://imgur.com/8eCZw6j
On 03 you can cut through the "stack" of "things" on the left without issue. You'll know what I talk about if you actually do this.
http://imgur.com/U0bsftF
Should have kept it at sanding.
Next, the lid.
Remove everything in sight.
http://imgur.com/rqvLQlW
http://imgur.com/MT8rSK3
I have yet to cut the top part, ran out of time last weekend.
Fitting
02 left http://imgur.com/4OHFiCE
02 right http://imgur.com/dwVpKKJ
03 left http://imgur.com/Y4DWKrr
03 right http://imgur.com/8Wl6jlN
Overall the 03 seems a bit easier to fit.
Cheers !
Using LQ133M1JW02 and LQ133M1JW03, both compatible with nitrocaster's mod. 03 has connector on the wrong side, a 30 pin side switcher / longer cable would be needed.
You can remove only the sides of the metal casing if you run it firmly against a metal ruler with a x-acto knife ~10 times then just roll it off :
http://imgur.com/JwdThov
http://imgur.com/lu9G12j
To be fair that was the first side of the first screen, I got better at this.
Then I used 320 sanding paper glued (3m spray thingy) to a plexiglass panel as a "flat surface".
I finished with the x-acto to get as close as possible to the glass panel on the right.
http://imgur.com/Kgps3CU
The 03 plastic is way more x-acto friendly than the 02. That's when I broke the 02. Can still be tested for fit, but missing ~20-30 columns.
Top view 02 left cut
http://imgur.com/8eCZw6j
On 03 you can cut through the "stack" of "things" on the left without issue. You'll know what I talk about if you actually do this.
http://imgur.com/U0bsftF
Should have kept it at sanding.
Next, the lid.
Remove everything in sight.
http://imgur.com/rqvLQlW
http://imgur.com/MT8rSK3
I have yet to cut the top part, ran out of time last weekend.
Fitting
02 left http://imgur.com/4OHFiCE
02 right http://imgur.com/dwVpKKJ
03 left http://imgur.com/Y4DWKrr
03 right http://imgur.com/8Wl6jlN
Overall the 03 seems a bit easier to fit.
Cheers !
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Re: WIP DIY x320, what I learned so far
Where does the antenna/webcam wiring go?
Where's the bezel (or whatever is left of that?
Wouldn't it have been cheaper (and a lot easier) to buy a Dell XPS 13 instead?
An X220/X230 mobo should have enough room in a Dell base...
All you would have needed to modify there, is a few ports in the base...
Where's the bezel (or whatever is left of that?
Wouldn't it have been cheaper (and a lot easier) to buy a Dell XPS 13 instead?
An X220/X230 mobo should have enough room in a Dell base...
All you would have needed to modify there, is a few ports in the base...
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Re: WIP DIY x320, what I learned so far
Wiring will hopefully go under the panel.
Bezel not cut yet.
XPS 13 don't have trackpoint, dealbreaker.
I'm just doing it for fun + challenge, sharing the progress for anyone interested.
Bezel not cut yet.
XPS 13 don't have trackpoint, dealbreaker.
I'm just doing it for fun + challenge, sharing the progress for anyone interested.
Re: WIP DIY x320, what I learned so far
As I will go through the same pain like you did in some weeks, I do learn this and that from this posting. Thanks for that.
I will give the 03 version a try, cause it is the best LQ133 around. I am still trying to solve the problem with the longer version of the LCD cable.
Preparations of panel and lid are first, mod kit is second (batch )
Btw, where did you buy the 03?
I will give the 03 version a try, cause it is the best LQ133 around. I am still trying to solve the problem with the longer version of the LCD cable.
Preparations of panel and lid are first, mod kit is second (batch )
Btw, where did you buy the 03?
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Re: WIP DIY x320, what I learned so far
The 03 was the cheapest I could find on Aliexpress with free e-packet shipping.
Let me know if you find good longer cables / connector side switcher for 30 pins.
Let me know if you find good longer cables / connector side switcher for 30 pins.
Re: WIP DIY x320, what I learned so far
Sure will do.
RealBlackStuff pointed me into this direction
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/I-PEX-4 ... 68564.html
Should do the trick too.
RealBlackStuff pointed me into this direction
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/I-PEX-4 ... 68564.html
Should do the trick too.
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Re: WIP DIY x320, what I learned so far
Careful, that cable is 40-pin, you'll need the same in 30-pin!
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Re: WIP DIY x320, what I learned so far
There seem to be no 30 pin side switchers, only 40 pins. I'll ask nitro where he got the edp cables to see if we can get longer ones from the same supplier. There are 30 to 40 pins adapters but I really want to avoid going that way.
Re: WIP DIY x320, what I learned so far
It is all there, we just need to find it.
A german opened the lid of his chinese X320, broke the panel and took pics. The Chinese stated they built the X3x0 containing the '03' version of the LQ133M1, with the eDP connector on the 'wrong' side. That means: it contains a longer version of the eDP LCD cable.
This pic shows the cable we are looking for
https://i.imgur.com/aNlt4uD.jpg
I emailed the german guy from the sister forum (waiting for answer). I doubt he has any info on the cable. And: the lid is closed now with a new panel and will never be opened again.
A german opened the lid of his chinese X320, broke the panel and took pics. The Chinese stated they built the X3x0 containing the '03' version of the LQ133M1, with the eDP connector on the 'wrong' side. That means: it contains a longer version of the eDP LCD cable.
This pic shows the cable we are looking for
https://i.imgur.com/aNlt4uD.jpg
I emailed the german guy from the sister forum (waiting for answer). I doubt he has any info on the cable. And: the lid is closed now with a new panel and will never be opened again.
Re: WIP DIY x320, what I learned so far
No info on the cable. He suspects the Chinese produced it on their own.x3o2 wrote:I emailed the german guy from the sister forum (waiting for answer). I doubt he has any info on the cable.
Re: WIP DIY x320, what I learned so far
Any news about the longer cable?
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Re: WIP DIY x320, what I learned so far
I think I just found exactly what's needed : http://www.yoycart.com/Product/544775349357/
Sketchy site and I had to manually switch the site to https. I'll keep an eye on my credit card statements in the next weeks / months
Part number HQ-LED30-156, I couldn't find it anywhere else.
Edit : Also this store has it on taobao http://www.uuaauu.com/item-39292554417.html
Sketchy site and I had to manually switch the site to https. I'll keep an eye on my credit card statements in the next weeks / months
Part number HQ-LED30-156, I couldn't find it anywhere else.
Edit : Also this store has it on taobao http://www.uuaauu.com/item-39292554417.html
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Re: WIP DIY x320, what I learned so far
I can confirm the HQ-LED30-156 from yoycart works but shipping is quite expensive, ended up around 40$ USD for 2 adapters shipped (fast option).
Here is a fitting test with a new unmodded panel on a intact lid (currently using a LP125WF2 SPB3 in my x220) : http://imgur.com/2EuwGvz
It is quite tight as it has been made to switch from left to right, not the opposite, but still works when folded.
Pic of the installed adapter on the back of the screen : http://imgur.com/JNtTEm9
Here is a fitting test with a new unmodded panel on a intact lid (currently using a LP125WF2 SPB3 in my x220) : http://imgur.com/2EuwGvz
It is quite tight as it has been made to switch from left to right, not the opposite, but still works when folded.
Pic of the installed adapter on the back of the screen : http://imgur.com/JNtTEm9
Re: WIP DIY x320, what I learned so far
Looking fantastic, mate. Well done.
| 701c | X220 | T420 | X230 | T430s | W540
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Re: WIP DIY x320, what I learned so far
And here is the test cut on a old t61 bezel : http://imgur.com/MHjTUB2
Using that thing : http://imgur.com/IDm5OxH
Modded Shapeoko 2 with nema23 and custom electronics for linuxCNC, running on a Thinkpad x41 for anyone wondering.
Using that thing : http://imgur.com/IDm5OxH
Modded Shapeoko 2 with nema23 and custom electronics for linuxCNC, running on a Thinkpad x41 for anyone wondering.
Re: WIP DIY x320, what I learned so far
Excited to see all the progress!
Re: WIP DIY x320, what I learned so far
thanks for sharing all the info.
waiting for more updates.
waiting for more updates.
Re: WIP DIY x320, what I learned so far
Sorry for post jacking, but I figured that I'd give my input on a different method, since I'm also trying to do the same thing. My goal is to fit a N133HSE-EA3 (13.3", 350 nit) display in an X220T lid (to my knowledge, same width as the X220, larger height).
There's a protective black metal tape holding everything together on the edges that (painstakingly) must be removed, from only the top and sides.
After that was done, I removed the white plastic "tray" (about 2 mm width) that holds the glass of the panel in place and holds down the diffusion layers (papery bit) of the backlight. I saved the top of the "tray" so that I would have something holding everything down.
I then had about 2 mm between the edge of the glass and the metal frame on the sides, and was able to put the panel on the edge of a table and very carefully trim the metal frame with some very sharp shears. I ended up going in on an angle, going as far under the glass as possible without disrupting the backlight plastic. The X-acto method doesn't work so well with my model panel, it seems the metal frame is a bit thicker. As a note, I pulled the panel up about 5 degrees to get a good angle, and didn't break my panel. Either they're fairly resilient, or I'm very lucky. Be careful of the bottom circuit board, I peeled the metal tape up just to get an idea of what was down there, and it's extremely fragile as it's connected to the panel by essentially FFC directly soldered to a PCB.
I cut the white plastic tray to leave only the top portion and reseated the tray into the tabs in the metal frame.
I'm currently waiting on finding some metal tape at a store near me to keep the panel together in the laptop, all other tapes just peel off. Thankfully, though, the whole panel currently works.
http://imgur.com/a/jvlL0
There's a protective black metal tape holding everything together on the edges that (painstakingly) must be removed, from only the top and sides.
After that was done, I removed the white plastic "tray" (about 2 mm width) that holds the glass of the panel in place and holds down the diffusion layers (papery bit) of the backlight. I saved the top of the "tray" so that I would have something holding everything down.
I then had about 2 mm between the edge of the glass and the metal frame on the sides, and was able to put the panel on the edge of a table and very carefully trim the metal frame with some very sharp shears. I ended up going in on an angle, going as far under the glass as possible without disrupting the backlight plastic. The X-acto method doesn't work so well with my model panel, it seems the metal frame is a bit thicker. As a note, I pulled the panel up about 5 degrees to get a good angle, and didn't break my panel. Either they're fairly resilient, or I'm very lucky. Be careful of the bottom circuit board, I peeled the metal tape up just to get an idea of what was down there, and it's extremely fragile as it's connected to the panel by essentially FFC directly soldered to a PCB.
I cut the white plastic tray to leave only the top portion and reseated the tray into the tabs in the metal frame.
I'm currently waiting on finding some metal tape at a store near me to keep the panel together in the laptop, all other tapes just peel off. Thankfully, though, the whole panel currently works.
http://imgur.com/a/jvlL0
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Re: WIP DIY x320, what I learned so far
No problem with post jacking, more tested screens = better ! That panel is too high to fit in a non-tablet x220 though. It might be possible to flip the bottom pcb on the back instead of the bottom. I might give it a try later as the panels are quite cheaper than the LQ133M1JW03.
How are you planning installing the FHD mod in the x220T ? I thought about using extensions to relocate the board but AFAIK the tolerances are quite tight for the length of the DP data lines, they have to be all the same...
How are you planning installing the FHD mod in the x220T ? I thought about using extensions to relocate the board but AFAIK the tolerances are quite tight for the length of the DP data lines, they have to be all the same...
Re: WIP DIY x320, what I learned so far
From what I saw, this seems impossible without breaking the panel; however, it may be possible to extend the FFC from the glass panel.boutch55555 wrote: ↑Fri May 26, 2017 11:40 amIt might be possible to flip the bottom pcb on the back instead of the bottom.
This link shows (probably) the first person to figure it out with a different, but similar fhd board as compared to nitrocaster's.boutch55555 wrote: ↑Fri May 26, 2017 11:40 amHow are you planning installing the FHD mod in the x220T ? I thought about using extensions to relocate the board but AFAIK the tolerances are quite tight for the length of the DP data lines, they have to be all the same...
http://letsitbe.jugem.jp/?eid=82
This link shows the completed product.
http://letsitbe.jugem.jp/?eid=85
So, it's possible. If I can't make it happen on the X220T, I'll buy an X220/X230 to mod, since they're not too expensive refurbished.
Re: WIP DIY x320, what I learned so far
Concerning installing the fhd board normally: it seems that there are a few resistors that would prohibit through-hole install.
Potato representation of fhd board on X220T mobo:
http://imgur.com/lIRDAlS
Circled problem areas where resistors may push on bottom of fhd board:
http://imgur.com/x6wpKRH
Here's the X220 mobo with the same areas circled:
http://imgur.com/RqlfoC3
I wonder if (like Louis Rossman suggested) it may be better to attach a wire to each pin and solder to the wire. I may be possible for the board to sit directly on top of where it normally would, right on top of those resistors.
Potato representation of fhd board on X220T mobo:
http://imgur.com/lIRDAlS
Circled problem areas where resistors may push on bottom of fhd board:
http://imgur.com/x6wpKRH
Here's the X220 mobo with the same areas circled:
http://imgur.com/RqlfoC3
I wonder if (like Louis Rossman suggested) it may be better to attach a wire to each pin and solder to the wire. I may be possible for the board to sit directly on top of where it normally would, right on top of those resistors.
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Re: WIP DIY x320, what I learned so far
That why I was thinking installing it "lower" on the board, starting where it's written F17, then using jump wires to connect to the pins. But they probably need to have the same length, like within 0.25mm (I can't find the exact spec). I wouldn't extend the docking pins vertically to install it on top of the components, Nitrocaster purposely made the board thin so it won't bump the keyboard, the clearance is quite thin.
Re: WIP DIY x320, what I learned so far
When discussing fly-wiring into an edp interface from normal displayport, bunnie (Andrew Huang) said "...keep in mind that DP runs at gigabit-speeds, so if you're going to fly-wire things, you better be extremely good at soldering and your fly wires have to be extremely short, like a couple mm if you want a reliable connection."
https://www.kosagi.com/forums/viewtopic.php?id=63
If I understand correctly, the longer the cable, the more that imperfections in the wire itself are going to make a difference and the data packets will no longer be sufficiently synced. So if you're going to do it, be as short as you can and hopefully everything stays synced.
I'm not an electrical engineer, so if anyone has a better idea at how to accomplish a fly-wire connection with edp, I would appreciate the input.
https://www.kosagi.com/forums/viewtopic.php?id=63
If I understand correctly, the longer the cable, the more that imperfections in the wire itself are going to make a difference and the data packets will no longer be sufficiently synced. So if you're going to do it, be as short as you can and hopefully everything stays synced.
I'm not an electrical engineer, so if anyone has a better idea at how to accomplish a fly-wire connection with edp, I would appreciate the input.
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Re: WIP DIY x320, what I learned so far
There is no such thing as "imperfections in the wire", a wire has a resistance, that's all. You can get interference. Longer the cable, longer the possible variation in length between the lanes, but a wire remains a wire.
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Re: WIP DIY x320, what I learned so far
There's no much vertical space to do that. You gonna need a special version of the PCB. I can make it without problem, but:
1] In X220T/X230T the LCD cable is combined with the camera cable. That means the camera cable has to be ripped from the stock combined cable and supplied along with the kit. But that's not a real problem.
2] The real problem: it's still unclear if it is practically possible to transplant protective glass and digitizer from the stock LCD to the new one.
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Re: WIP DIY x320, what I learned so far
Aside from resistance and length, wire has inductance and capacitance. The latter two factors affect impedance, which has to be maintained within specified tolerances when it comes to high-speed differential interfaces. That is why you can't use arbitrary wires (even if they're all the same length) to connect eDP display to the motherboard.boutch55555 wrote: ↑Fri May 26, 2017 5:14 pmThere is no such thing as "imperfections in the wire", a wire has a resistance, that's all. You can get interference. Longer the cable, longer the possible variation in length between the lanes, but a wire remains a wire.
Re: WIP DIY x320, what I learned so far
At least for me, I'd trade digitizer functionality for 1080p any day. Not to mention, the modification that I've done to the LCD leaves it rather fragile. I don't know if I'd trust putting a digitizer over it.nitrocaster wrote: ↑Sat May 27, 2017 12:15 pmit's still unclear if it is practically possible to transplant protective glass and digitizer from the stock LCD to the new one.
Yes, waiting for the proper version of the fhd board would be the right way to do it, but I'm wondering if it's possible to do it this way. As boutch55555 said above, it's a personal challenge at this point. If I can't do it/it's not practical, then I could mod another refurbished X220/X230 instead.
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Re: WIP DIY x320, what I learned so far
In that case I don't see a reason why not get X220/X230 and put FHD in it.
Re: WIP DIY x320, what I learned so far
You're probably right, I should just suck it up and buy another X220 instead of potentially frying my X220T.nitrocaster wrote: ↑Sat May 27, 2017 3:42 pmIn that case I don't see a reason why not get X220/X230 and put FHD in it.
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Re: WIP DIY x320, what I learned so far
Nah, c'mon, you already went that far, give it a try
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