Using LQ133M1JW02 and LQ133M1JW03, both compatible with nitrocaster's mod. 03 has connector on the wrong side, a 30 pin side switcher / longer cable would be needed.
You can remove only the sides of the metal casing if you run it firmly against a metal ruler with a x-acto knife ~10 times then just roll it off :
To be fair that was the first side of the first screen, I got better at this.
Then I used 320 sanding paper glued (3m spray thingy) to a plexiglass panel as a "flat surface".
I finished with the x-acto to get as close as possible to the glass panel on the right.
The 03 plastic is way more x-acto friendly than the 02. That's when I broke the 02. Can still be tested for fit, but missing ~20-30 columns.
Top view 02 left cut
On 03 you can cut through the "stack" of "things" on the left without issue. You'll know what I talk about if you actually do this.
Should have kept it at sanding.
Next, the lid.
Remove everything in sight.
I have yet to cut the top part, ran out of time last weekend.
02 left http://imgur.com/4OHFiCE
02 right http://imgur.com/dwVpKKJ
03 left http://imgur.com/Y4DWKrr
03 right http://imgur.com/8Wl6jlN
Overall the 03 seems a bit easier to fit.
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Where's the bezel (or whatever is left of that?
Wouldn't it have been cheaper (and a lot easier) to buy a Dell XPS 13 instead?
An X220/X230 mobo should have enough room in a Dell base...
All you would have needed to modify there, is a few ports in the base...
Bezel not cut yet.
XPS 13 don't have trackpoint, dealbreaker.
I'm just doing it for fun + challenge, sharing the progress for anyone interested.
I will give the 03 version a try, cause it is the best LQ133 around. I am still trying to solve the problem with the longer version of the LCD cable.
Preparations of panel and lid are first, mod kit is second (batch )
Btw, where did you buy the 03?
Let me know if you find good longer cables / connector side switcher for 30 pins.
RealBlackStuff pointed me into this direction
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/I-PEX-4 ... 68564.html
Should do the trick too.
A german opened the lid of his chinese X320, broke the panel and took pics. The Chinese stated they built the X3x0 containing the '03' version of the LQ133M1, with the eDP connector on the 'wrong' side. That means: it contains a longer version of the eDP LCD cable.
This pic shows the cable we are looking for
I emailed the german guy from the sister forum (waiting for answer). I doubt he has any info on the cable. And: the lid is closed now with a new panel and will never be opened again.
Sketchy site and I had to manually switch the site to https. I'll keep an eye on my credit card statements in the next weeks / months
Part number HQ-LED30-156, I couldn't find it anywhere else.
Edit : Also this store has it on taobao http://www.uuaauu.com/item-39292554417.html
Here is a fitting test with a new unmodded panel on a intact lid (currently using a LP125WF2 SPB3 in my x220) : http://imgur.com/2EuwGvz
It is quite tight as it has been made to switch from left to right, not the opposite, but still works when folded.
Pic of the installed adapter on the back of the screen : http://imgur.com/JNtTEm9
There's a protective black metal tape holding everything together on the edges that (painstakingly) must be removed, from only the top and sides.
After that was done, I removed the white plastic "tray" (about 2 mm width) that holds the glass of the panel in place and holds down the diffusion layers (papery bit) of the backlight. I saved the top of the "tray" so that I would have something holding everything down.
I then had about 2 mm between the edge of the glass and the metal frame on the sides, and was able to put the panel on the edge of a table and very carefully trim the metal frame with some very sharp shears. I ended up going in on an angle, going as far under the glass as possible without disrupting the backlight plastic. The X-acto method doesn't work so well with my model panel, it seems the metal frame is a bit thicker. As a note, I pulled the panel up about 5 degrees to get a good angle, and didn't break my panel. Either they're fairly resilient, or I'm very lucky. Be careful of the bottom circuit board, I peeled the metal tape up just to get an idea of what was down there, and it's extremely fragile as it's connected to the panel by essentially FFC directly soldered to a PCB.
I cut the white plastic tray to leave only the top portion and reseated the tray into the tabs in the metal frame.
I'm currently waiting on finding some metal tape at a store near me to keep the panel together in the laptop, all other tapes just peel off. Thankfully, though, the whole panel currently works.
How are you planning installing the FHD mod in the x220T ? I thought about using extensions to relocate the board but AFAIK the tolerances are quite tight for the length of the DP data lines, they have to be all the same...
From what I saw, this seems impossible without breaking the panel; however, it may be possible to extend the FFC from the glass panel.
This link shows (probably) the first person to figure it out with a different, but similar fhd board as compared to nitrocaster's.
This link shows the completed product.
So, it's possible. If I can't make it happen on the X220T, I'll buy an X220/X230 to mod, since they're not too expensive refurbished.
Potato representation of fhd board on X220T mobo:
Circled problem areas where resistors may push on bottom of fhd board:
Here's the X220 mobo with the same areas circled:
I wonder if (like Louis Rossman suggested) it may be better to attach a wire to each pin and solder to the wire. I may be possible for the board to sit directly on top of where it normally would, right on top of those resistors.
If I understand correctly, the longer the cable, the more that imperfections in the wire itself are going to make a difference and the data packets will no longer be sufficiently synced. So if you're going to do it, be as short as you can and hopefully everything stays synced.
I'm not an electrical engineer, so if anyone has a better idea at how to accomplish a fly-wire connection with edp, I would appreciate the input.
There's no much vertical space to do that. You gonna need a special version of the PCB. I can make it without problem, but:
1] In X220T/X230T the LCD cable is combined with the camera cable. That means the camera cable has to be ripped from the stock combined cable and supplied along with the kit. But that's not a real problem.
2] The real problem: it's still unclear if it is practically possible to transplant protective glass and digitizer from the stock LCD to the new one.
Aside from resistance and length, wire has inductance and capacitance. The latter two factors affect impedance, which has to be maintained within specified tolerances when it comes to high-speed differential interfaces. That is why you can't use arbitrary wires (even if they're all the same length) to connect eDP display to the motherboard.
At least for me, I'd trade digitizer functionality for 1080p any day. Not to mention, the modification that I've done to the LCD leaves it rather fragile. I don't know if I'd trust putting a digitizer over it.
Yes, waiting for the proper version of the fhd board would be the right way to do it, but I'm wondering if it's possible to do it this way. As boutch55555 said above, it's a personal challenge at this point. If I can't do it/it's not practical, then I could mod another refurbished X220/X230 instead.
In that case I don't see a reason why not get X220/X230 and put FHD in it.
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