Both monitor calbes were included so 13.3 FHD and 12.5 so called 2k ones. The btoker just did not take photo of the 13.3 one.
So far the screen works perfectly and is really amazing comparing to the original one. No flickering or anything with 16GB installed.
USB 2.0 dongle works (I suppose it gets te signal from express card connector as it also works woth the USB3.0 cable not connected).
SATA not tested because I do not have anything to connect to at the moment.
USB3.0 does not work I connected my mobile phone to see if there is a votage - nothing happens.
The SATA cable is connected as you have shown with the red ovals, if we call it straight connection the USB cable uses inverted connection. I have checked the continuity between the connectors (to see of the tapes sat well etc) with a multimeter - looks OK.
Any suggestions ? Machine is running windows 10, bios 2.70 (x230 i7 processor).
The only idea I have is to ask my friend to reslder the upper connections of the board (he begun with these, maybe he soldered not long enough to get the touch with the pins...)
You should have continuity between some pins on that little chip and the top left big solder.
Also, congrats on getting that new screen working.
Just found the usb socket pinouts here:
If we look at PCB LAYOUT in the middle of the first page on this document we can see there are the 9 pcb lines going to the socket, in case of our interface we have:
9 TXP = pin 126 on docking connector
1 +5V = from the big pin on docking connector, yes it has been soldered yesterday.
8 TXN = pin 124 on docking connector
2 DATA- = pin 130 on docking connector
7 GND = taken from somewhere
3 DATA+ = pin 132 on docking connector
6 RXP = pin 120 on docking connector
4 GND = taken from somewhere
5 RXN = pin 118 on docking connector
So I will measure the continuities here.
I used the docking connector pinout from here:
http://plan9.stanleylieber.com/hardware ... matics.pdf
There are useful photos:
https://forum.51nb.com/data/attachment/ ... 7owlqg.jpg
https://forum.51nb.com/data/attachment/ ... 2bpj1z.jpg
I will post the results in the evening.
BTW what is the purpose of the little chip near the USB 3.0 connector ?
Looking here https://forum.51nb.com/data/attachment/ ... w7lylu.png it is just in parallel with the socket.
The continuity was OK - some pins can be measured some not (probably there are some protection circuits so it is not electrically 1:1 connection on all pins from dock connector to usb3.0 lines on the second board).
After resoldering just with a good amount of soldering flux one of USB3 pins on the dock connector seemed to have not enough of solder applied.
We assembled the machine and just after start I saw a blink of cmd prompt - it installed something for newly detected device.
After plugging of a mouse the we have heard a windows USB device connected sound
The last remaining thing to test is the msata - but it has to wait till next month, now the budget for IT is over
BIOS to be patched as well - but I will test the setup as is for some days.
; Default 3000 -> time of display of brightness slider on screen, reminds the old style thinkpad slider, in miliseconds
; 0-100 Default 100 -> as the name states, opacity of the slider
; 0x000000-0xffffff -> back color of the slider, 0x000000 is white
; Ctrl Alt Shift -> this section is used in X220 case, no need to use on X230, default Fn+F8 / F9 buttons work to adjust the brightness
; 0-15 Default 12 -> default brightness after windows boot
; This parameter must be set to 1 to take ito account the values.below. If set to 0 they have no effect
; time in minutes on AC connected to reduce brightness to the given value from 0 to 15 and to switch off the screen
; time in minutes on battery to reduce brightness to the given value from 0 to 15 and switch off the screen
For my X220boutch55555 wrote: ↑Fri Dec 15, 2017 9:33 pmBios flashed for advanced menu + whitelist + no LVDS. RAID still won't enable with msata + 2.5", It'll be linux only. At least I'll get wwan back. Custom app for backlight control works beautifully in Windows without the need of screen mirroring. Doesn't work in linux with or without FHD kernel patch (no surprise), guess I'll have to check how to talk to that usb thingie. No compatibility issues with my 13.3" panel so it should work with the "standard" 12.5 fhd panels too.
I also purchased the same model.
But I do not have a custom BIOS and custom app
Where can I get it?
Newice is looking for an advice.
What is the best/optimal way to get 13.3 FHD on x230 at this time?
Tried to collect possible options:
1) - nitrocaster mod ($58 + $5) + order somewhere lcd + modify bezel (total price is unknown)
2) - order mod https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=558929819675 (300Yuan) (seller #1) + order somewhere lcd + modify bezel
3) - order mod https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=553863861510 (200Yuan) (seller #2) + order somewhere 13.3 FHD lcd + order bezel https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=558961272865 (100Yuan)
4) - order full set : mod + front-rear bezels + lcd wires + samsung grade A LCD https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=550879131380 (1298Yuan) (seller #3 aka KK) .
I'll be able to solder mod pcb myself but unable to modify bezel (cutting, grinding, etc)
Also I'm not sure what mod is the most advanced/stable/appropriate now
- planning to use windows
- wants brightens to be adjustable via default Fn button
- do not quite understand what mod requires BIOS patching (and what for)
- not sure are there any drowbacks with each mod (not able to connect second monitor, desktop mirroring, more energy consumption etc)
For now option #4 looks acceptable, however price is 1298Yuan (~USD205) + shipping. it is a bit more that I had expected. How it correlates with an estimated price for other options?
#1 and #4 use display mirroring to get the backlight signal. If you don't mirror it defaults to full brightness. So either you use a single external screen + internal or 2 external + internal at full brightness. #2 and #3 use a usb line with a custom driver. Fallback control for those is a short press on the power button that cycles between levels.
Battery life, with mirroring, worst case (idle computer max brightness) will be about 20% loss. Real world will be between 5% and 15% depending on the workload. With kits #2 and #3 the variation should be equal to the difference in power consumption of the panels. Might have a 2-3% overhead for the board. Worth noting that my W21 panel uses less power than the stock TN.
Bios patch is for boards #2 and #3, since the old LVDS interface isn't used anymore, it removes it from the display adapters in Windows, easing switching to external screens, especially with FN keys. Nice to have but really not required.
For the panels I got the LQ133M1JW11 and LQ133M1JW21. The included cables for kits #2 and #3 are long enough. Requires extensions (2 of those) with kit #1. The best panel right now would probably be B133HAN04.6 (tested by alisan here) since it doesn't have adaptive brightness hardcoded in the panel firmware.
#3 does only FHD. #2 does FHD + WQHD with a small switcher board. Both add a mSATA3 slot in the expresscard enclosure. #2 also adds a usb3 and a usb2 plug.
There is still no known 13.3 WQHD that fits.
TL;DR, get kit #3 (#2 if you need more usb ports / hope to fine a compatible WQHD in the future), the 100 Yuan bezel from #3 and source your choice of LQ133M1JW11/21 or B133HAN04.6. Do the lid with a dremel following that guide.
Wow, thanks for a detailed reply.boutch55555 wrote:At this time the wait times for nitrocaster's mod are quite long, I recommend #2 or #3. #4 includes the install fee, you have to ship the laptop, price varies depending on the options (13.3" FHD / 12.5" WQHD). I won't really cover that last one since I don't have it.
I have contacted seller #4 yesterday. Wanted to clarify what set i should choose if I'm not going to send laptop to him for modification. He said I should go to the expensive one (1200+yuan). There are also 2 cheaper sets by that link ( 860+ and 1000+ yuan correspondingly ) but I can't understand the difference with Google translator. As far as cost difference between sets #2(#3) and #4 is huge (120+ vs 210+) I would probably go for the cheaper one.
Отправлено с моего Redmi Pro через Tapatalk
P.S. sorry for overquoting, did not catch that while replying through tapatalk.
I wanted to order one for spare and they responded not available, availability date unknown, only non usb version at the moment.
EDIT: forgot to mention - the app for brightness control under windows will work with 2 and 3. I recommend cutting the LVDS line by bios patch.
I've asked seller just few hours ago and he said set is in stock. Don't know whether I should have specified that I need set with usb 3.0 explicitly.wojtekS wrote:Kit nr 2 is unavailable now - even if listed on taobao.
EDIT: forgot to mention - the app for brightness control under windows will work with 2 and 3. I recommend cutting the LVDS line by bios patch.
sent from my RedmiPro using Tapatalk
is that required to do ?I recommend cutting the LVDS line by bios patch
Ive almost no experience working with isp programmer tools.
Have this clip and smth like this programmer. Have used that just a few times to flash atmega controller in my flashlight.
However all topics Ive seen about flashing thinkpad bios refers to rassberry pi as programmer.
If not cut windows thinks there are two screens attached to the laptop, you have these two screens everywhere. If you connect an external monitor via VGA or DP on laptop you have already 3 screens.
It simply makes the mess - especially for Fn F7 (screen / projector management).
If you patch your bios for LVDS cut everything is as it supposed to be: one screen present, when another screen attached you have two screens in Windows, you can set to duplicate / extend as you prefer.
If not cut you have also the old brightness slider in the left top corner on your new screen (by pressing Fn F8 / F9 for X230) that does nothing - the FHD/QHD cannot be adjusted by the windows LVDS brightness control.
Maybe under linux it is managed in a better way.
For the programming as far as I could find some info it is not recommended to go via clip - the correct way is to unsolder the chip and put it in a kind of connector. There were cases of bios corruption as it was not correctly read / written just because the clip lost contact on some pin during the operation. So I went to the computer repair shop and they did it for me for something like $12 using professional soldering station and professional programmer. I would suggest to do the same.
Sorry, did not manage to ask during working time (installing taobao messenger under linux just stuck constantly).
And now i see set #2 became cheaper (260yuan) and seller has removed USB3 pcb from lot description.
So now do not understand the difference between set #2 (260yuan) and #3(200yuan) as both seem support fhd and wqhd and none have extra USB3.0 pcb.
Google translator from set #3:boutch55555 wrote: ↑Tue Mar 06, 2018 6:04 pmMight be old stock, or a new rev. Looks like a hybrid from the 2 kits I got. Only msata extension like my first, but pictures include the 30/40 pin switcher needed for FHD / WQHD like my 2nd kit. No mention of FHD in the listing though, might not include the 2nd board. #3 doesn't do WQHD.
also there is a pic https://gd2.alicdn.com/imgextra/i2/1748 ... 762764.jpg.This suite has two versions support 1080p screen and 2k screen, please communicate with the owner clearly before buying.
Will wait. Do not want expensive kk mod with screen mirroring anymore.
Now all the links to the USB version previously mentioned go to the non USB "hybrid" instead of what was available before and what we were getting before.
The USB version #2 was the most versalite and "smart" in my opinion as the LVDS could be cut while #1 and #4 still uses brightness signal from it so it must be left operational = mess in Windows screen management.
The internal USB port was perfect to put the wireless mouse receiver - without occuping any external ports and what is also very esthetic as you have nothing protruding on the laptop itself.
Let's hope now that the USB version comes back in a few days /weeks...
Forgot to mention that the bios patch can also disable the whitelist check on X230 what is very useful - I could install a modern Intel AC-7260 wireless card with an outstanding performance and a 4G GSM modem from Sierra. Both work great. As a bonus the patch can also unlock Advanced menu in the bios that lets you to make some fine adjustements on the laptop that are normally not accessible for the end user.
What I have now still in the small form of X230 is the i7 stock processor, 12.5 inch QHD screen from sharp, a 500GB samsung EVO850 in the additional msata slot provided by the mod, a 2.5 inch 2TB seagate FireCuda SSHD in sata slot, 16GB of ram, mentioned AC-7260 and sierra 4G modem. I think this config can be enough for some more years. And I like the laptop very much.
The only problem with my kit is a questionnable connection between the upper board and the FFC msata cable going to the lower board. The samsung sometimes connects with sata II speed instead of sata III speed, but in normal use it does not make a big difference. I think the connector may be a bit faulty, maybe I will return to the computer repair shop that has the sophisticated soldering station asking to replace the connector. The FFC cables are also very fragile, they get damaged after a few connecting / removing from the connector. Anyway feel fre to ask if you have any question on it.
One more thing is (all versions are affected) is the fact that the original LVDS screen is not connected anymore but the bios is by default set to display the boot info and bios settings on "ThinkPad LCD" - should be manually changed to "Digital on Dock 2" what is our new screen now in "Display" section of the bios. Sometimes (no idea why - problem mentioned by Nitrocaster already) if set to "ThinkPad LCD" it displays the boot info on our new screen as well but sometimes not. It happened to me once after resetting the bios to default values and disconnecting the bios battery... the computer reverted to "ThinkPad LCD" :/ Fortunatelly one of my neightbors has the X230T so I could borrow it and put aside to see the key sequence needed to change back to "Digital on Dock 2" - now I have done some pictures step by step using my mobile phone how to do
x230/i5/8GB/500gb.hdd+256gb.m2ssd/IPS/debian_stable+win7 (better half)
Endpoint is a standard USB HID, it shouldn't be too hard to rewrite it if needed. The correct way would be to write a proper USB driver, then patch ACPI / ? something else ? to call it. Might work by hooking it directly in Intel driver (intel_backlight.c ?). Looking at this page it seems there are multiple ways we could use. Ideally we would need something that doesn't require kernel patching. Or perhaps a proper programmer (as in, not me) could do it and have it accepted in the kernel. I might look into it when I get some time.
#2 and #3 under mirroring or independent via dedicated driver (a windows application running in background).
The rough translation through Google Translate is helpful, but I'm not sure what "short circuit" means in this context...
First short-circuit the C130 capacitor on the motherboard, tear off the 3M adhesive on the back of the adapter board, and place the adapter board on the Dock pin. Use the soldering iron to solder the solder pad with the box with the red in the figure below. , and then connect the green arrow solder joint on the right side to the 15Pin pin of the motherboard CN3 socke
But according to this picture that I found: https://forum.51nb.com/data/attachment/ ... tk93z1.jpg -> save it on your disk, you can zoom then.
in fact it looks like short-circuited using a 000 resistor. This element in place of C130 is definitively not a condensator.
It is safer to put a 000 resistor instead of simple wire because it will work as a fuse in case of... -> it will protect the motherboard from being fried.
Whole thread in chinese here: https://forum.51nb.com/forum.php?mod=vi ... 443&extra=
The CN3 socket is the right upper one on the mentioned picture, not yet connected during taking the photo. They use a thin insulated wire - I have seen it somewhere on another picture.
- FHD mod https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=553 ... .N.568dc76 (FHD + msata, no extra USB)
- custom screen bezel (already cut to fit 13.3FHD, however not sure if it would fit AUO LCD, originally it was for some LQ133M1JWxx models )
2pcs B133HAN04.6 are still on the way so I've decided to solder mod and check with B133HAN04.9 at first.
a question in advance
should I set any specific lcd related options in BIOS before soldering mod?One more thing is (all versions are affected) is the fact that the original LVDS screen is not connected anymore but the bios is by default set to display the boot info and bios settings on "ThinkPad LCD"
upd1: already soldered.
by default win10 offers screen mirroring with 1024*768.
brightest adjustment does not work at all. tried f8-f9, Fn + f8-f9, short pressing power button, win10 bright adjustment app from tray. have I missed smth? should I recheck my soldering or it is expected behavior unless bios is patched?
will that app work without flashing bios?boutch55555 wrote: ↑Fri Dec 15, 2017 9:33 pmBios flashed for advanced menu + whitelist + no LVDS. RAID still won't enable with msata + 2.5", It'll be linux only. At least I'll get wwan back. Custom app for backlight control works beautifully in Windows without the need of screen mirroring. Doesn't work in linux with or without FHD kernel patch (no surprise), guess I'll have to check how to talk to that usb thingie. No compatibility issues with my 13.3" panel so it should work with the "standard" 12.5 fhd panels too.
could you please share the link to that app?
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