Warning: advise against disassembling the the Series 3 docks

[axur-delmeria]

Short version: wants to remove alignment guide, damages dock during disassembly.

Long version:

I have a Series 3 Dock (4337) and wanted to remove the alignment guide as it blocks the X220's side exhaust vent. Whoever thought it was a good idea needs to be hit with a Selectadock III.

Found a very good guide here: https://joes-tech-blog.blogspot.com/201 ... n-for.html

Though it's for the Mini Dock Plus (4338), the instructions were applicable to the 4337 as well.

I successfully disassembled the dock and removed the alignment guide, but encountered problems putting it back together.

First, the four screws in this picture cannot be screwed back anymore:


Larger version

It turns out that the screw posts had broken off (perhaps the plastic got brittle with age?)

I continued reassembly despite that, and discovered that the eject mechanism doesn't work anymore.

It seems that those 4 screws hold the two halves of the docking/eject mechanism.


I'm in the process of figuring out how to replace the screw posts, but with the parts I have, I'll probably use standoffs like these:



Wish me luck.

[Thinkpad4by3]

Reminds me of the old Powerbook 100 series where the display assemblies only were held together with brass inserted into ABS plastic and would start to wiggle loose until the display fell apart and couldn't be put back together. Oh yeah and the minute you tried to unscrew it, the weakly attached standoffs would immediately break loose.

[axur-delmeria]

Reminds me of the old Powerbook 100 series where the display assemblies only were held together with brass inserted into ABS plastic and would start to wiggle loose until the display fell apart and couldn't be put back together. Oh yeah and the minute you tried to unscrew it, the weakly attached standoffs would immediately break loose.

Experienced that too in other laptops, like those Acer and Asus laptops where the hinge is mounted to the lid only with those brass inserts, so either the plastic around the inserts breaks, or the lid itself cracks just after the hinge.

Back to the problem at hand: due to the wedge shape of the dock. the broken screw posts are not perpendicular to the base of the dock, but to the upper half; the posts are of different heights too. None of the original screw posts are intact, so I have no reference regarding the angle and heigh.

[Thinkpad4by3]

Reminds me of the old Powerbook 100 series where the display assemblies only were held together with brass inserted into ABS plastic and would start to wiggle loose until the display fell apart and couldn't be put back together. Oh yeah and the minute you tried to unscrew it, the weakly attached standoffs would immediately break loose.

Experienced that too in other laptops, like those Acer and Asus laptops where the hinge is mounted to the lid only with those brass inserts, so either the plastic around the inserts breaks, or the lid itself cracks just after the hinge.

Back to the problem at hand: due to the wedge shape of the dock. the broken screw posts are not perpendicular to the base of the dock, but to the upper half; the posts are of different heights too. None of the original screw posts are intact, so I have no reference regarding the angle and heigh.

Can you fully disassemble the dock to glue the standoffs in-place or assess the damage such that you can make a repair?

[axur-delmeria]

Can you fully disassemble the dock to glue the standoffs in-place or assess the damage such that you can make a repair?

The dock is disassembled save for the dock's circuit board and RF shield, like this:



I don't think any glue would be able to stand up to the stresses; it'd be like brass insert + weak plastic all over again.

I'm starting to get a handle on the heights and angles though: the dock's circuit board is angled as well, so I can use that as reference.

The challenge now is how to secure the standoffs at the correct angle-- it would have been easier if it were perpendicular to the base (I just need a nut and washer).

[dr_st]

I have a Series 3 Dock (4337) and wanted to remove the alignment guide as it blocks the X220's side exhaust vent.

Given the problem you've experienced, would you say that, in the future, if someone wants to unblock the vent, they should just break the alignment guide off? This is probably easier.

[axur-delmeria]

Given the problem you've experienced, would you say that, in the future, if someone wants to unblock the vent, they should just break the alignment guide off? This is probably easier.

Yes, but it must be done in a controlled manner, not just "pull at it until it breaks".

As for the mod, it's around 70% done. The standoffs I used are found in D-sub connectors, like this one:



I used standoffs for the 2 medium-length posts. For the shortest one I used a TO-220 screw insulator. It's the white disk in the photo below:



I plan to use a simple nut and bolt for the longest one, but need a bolt longer than 15mm. So the repair is put on hold until I can buy one

[jcvjcvjcvjcv]

Ouch. I took one of my 4338's apart to do the same because I didn't like it blocking W520. The only issue I had was some stupid spring that insisted on being free...

I would have tried glue though in this case. I have even glued the bearings in a bicycle wheel beause the hub had worn out, still good 7000 km later. Although that was Loctite 660...

[Thinkpad4by3]

Ouch. I took one of my 4338's apart to do the same because I didn't like it blocking W520. The only issue I had was some stupid spring that insisted on being free...

I would have tried glue though in this case. I have even glued the bearings in a bicycle wheel beause the hub had worn out, still good 7000 km later. Although that was Loctite 660...

Loctite 660 is some pretty serious glue.

But axur-delmeria....don't underestimate the power of glue. I can guarantee you plastic epoxy or JB-weld or the like will stand up just fine to the stresses. This stuff isn't elmers glue by any stretch of the imagination. Also much stronger on those type of loads than CA/Super glue.

[axur-delmeria]

But axur-delmeria....don't underestimate the power of glue. I can guarantee you plastic epoxy or JB-weld or the like will stand up just fine to the stresses. This stuff isn't elmers glue by any stretch of the imagination. Also much stronger on those type of loads than CA/Super glue.

I don't underestimate glues-- the valve in one of our water tanks is held in place solely by metal-filled epoxy.

It's just that:

1. There's a limited selection of locally available glues

2. The plastic screw posts have pretty much disintegrated so there's little to glue back together

3. There's not much free space around the screw posts-- two of them also act as guides for one of the eject system's internal sliding mechanisms.

I was unable to purchase the screws yesterday, so the repair work is currently stalled. Will get back to it next week.

[axur-delmeria]

Update: the repair is 99% complete. The only thing left is a set of new rubber feet which need to be taller/thicker due to the UNC 4-40 hex nuts underneath. Will provide pics when it's 100%.

Addendum:
Currently testing the dock despite lacking the rubber feet.

DVI port OK -- using a 22" monitor at the moment

USB 3.0 port OK -- plugged 32GB external M.2 SSD and ran hdparm -Tt /dev/sdc, buffered read speed is 305.32 MB/sec.

[axur-delmeria]

Final update:

Mod is 100% complete. Some pics:

The two metal standoffs (originally from a video card's VGA port). One is west of the docking connector, the other is southeast.
The TO-220 spacer is under the screw hole just south of the docking connector's left edge.


Here's the upper half of the base, screwed in place. I've used some screws from my stash. These are alloy (non-magnetic) UNC 4-40 (like the standoffs), with a Torx head. These screws are at least 15 years old by now-- I think they're from a hard drive (probably a Seagate ST-157A or ST-225) I dismantled long ago.


Nuts at the bottom. I didn't have the long screw yet when I took this photo, so there's the empty screw hole at the top.


Unfortunately, I wasn't able to take pictures of that screw.

Bottom view of the completed mod, with new rubber feet:


Closeup of the nuts. The screws have been (amateurishly) cut with a Dremel.


Turns out the alignment guide also supported the laptop. With the guide removed, I glued this piece of rubber as support.


Full album can be found here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/axur-delm ... 9716172021

[olddog]

Well done.

A tip from wooden boat building. When you have to glue something, build up the glue around the joint so as to greatly increase the amount of glue in contact with the parts you are gluing. if it's strong glue, like epoxy, you will have a much stronger repair. Of course, it's best if the repaired part isn't visible because it won't win prizes for aesthetics.

[dingdong]

Alternative (tool used: Dremel):


Larger image: https://i.imgur.com/9EplaAB.jpg

[skx]

Alternative (tool used: Dremel):


Larger image: https://i.imgur.com/9EplaAB.jpg

ah the dremel the modder's best friend i used it as well to have this [censored] ultrabay drives fitting

[axur-delmeria]

I do have a rotary tool, but I'm down to the last reinforced cutting wheel, but I can't find a replacement that isn't part of a complete set of cutting, grinding, and whatever bits. May need to order online, which I don't like because I want to see the item before purchasing it.

[RealBlackStuff]

If it's a Dremel, get something like this: https://www.ebay.ie/itm/191869684060
I bought a similar set 3 years ago, and I'm still on the first disc, even after about 70 Frankenpads and other stuff.

"My" purchase description: 3pc 3/4" Diamond Titanium Cut-Off Wheel Set Metal Glass Stone 1/8 Fits Dremel
I guess the keyword here is Titanium (and it was also Chinesium).

[axur-delmeria]

Many thanks for the recommendation.