Reviving My A31

[Shadikku]

For One I am using my A31 as I type this but only in Safe Mode I am clearly puzzled by my problem(s)

My friend gave me this computer about 2 years ago to mess with since my Everex Stepnote VA4100M decided to become a fire hazard.

But Anyways when I got it the computer is said No Operating System Found Immediately I ran Windows XPE Live CD to diagnose my problem it was the hardrive so I boxed it up and just up to a month a ago I got techno savvy and wanted to mess with it so I just got a 60GB Hardisk and decided to bump the ram 512 up, and this is where my first problem started, I would freeze during install of XP Hardware Detection It Was becoming unbearable until I tried about 4 different copies of XP finally I attempted to run a eMachines recovery disk installed perfectly but before this I had it apart installing a new wireless card then worked fine but I noticed it was getting hot so I shut it off, and this is were more problems follow it started to freeze upon boot so I started messing with the CMOS and and got it to finally boot in safe mode so I ran the msconfig utility and locked my PCI's and it did the same thing and then i rebooted normally and it started to boot fine and it has been working for about a week like that and then it quit altogether, so I started looking around on google and it was coming everything to heat related to maybe a damaged GPU but i took her apart and noticed my fan had no blades whatsoever so i started digging around and made a makesshift ran that runs off an old cell phone charger and it keeps it cool but not enough and it stopped but it came back but I dismounted my battery pack since my old macbook wouldn't boot unless it was unhooked so I figured why not give it a shot and guess what it boots perfect everytime! But now it freezes at the login screen, and followed with a bluescreen saying "MACHINE_CHECK_ERROR" i've about lost it with this but i runs flawlessly in safemode I am puzzled.

and a edit, I need to figure out to re soldier the USB Ports, Mine Are Burn out..

Help is greatly Appreciated

Specs:
---------------
1.8Ghz Intel Pentium 4 M
768MB Of RAM
60GB Hardisk I'll have to edit this soon as I find out what company makes it.
Intel PRO/100 VE Network Connection
Intel PRO/Wireless 2200BG Network Connection
Windows Xp Home SP2.51
LG-CDROM

[sjthinkpader]

Clearly you need to fix these problems one by one. Replace that fan first and remove the RAM you added, then see if it will load OS.

[Shadikku]

I've already replaced the fan, but it still seems to get hot and the ram isn't problem thier both new sticks. It Boots fine when its cool but I have to boot in Safe Mode first and reboot to normal but If I remove the battery pack the system boots flawlessly. and my post from earlier might have not made since I was 28hours with no sleep trying to figure this out. I was little out of it.


and edit again: It's no longer bluescreening

[rkawakami]

I think what sjthinkpader meant was that you install another proper and original A31 fan. Be sure to use some new thermal grease or any pad that was already mounted in the system. Once you have done that, then follow this usual procedure to begin troubleshooting:

- remove all hardware that is designed to be removed from the system. This means all memory modules, Ultrabay device(s), any plug-in cards in the mounting bays (ethernet, MiniPCI, modem, bluetooth, etc.), hard drive, PCMCIA cards. Disconnect any USB and Firewire cables.
- once the system is stripped down, try to start it up. You should get a beep code indicating bad or missing memory, typically a 1-3-3-1 sequence. If that happens, then you can assume that at least most of the motherboard is working.
- install ONE memory module and boot the system. If you get any error messages, make a note of it. Assuming you don't, you should now be able to access the BIOS. Reset the BIOS to default settings (should be an option to do this under Restart) and be sure to exit BIOS saving the changes.
- install either the floppy or optical drive in an Ultrabay and run a memory diagnostic program such as memtest86+. Allow at least three complete passes before declaring the memory "good". Even brand new modules can sometimes have problems so don't be too quick to dismiss that as a source of your problem just because they are "new".
- assuming that the test comes back "passing", move that memory module into the other memory slot and repeat the testing. This will verify that both slots are functional.
- you can test any other modules that you might use in either slot once you know that they're both working
- once you know that the memory is good, run a system diagnostic. Thinkpads can be checked out using a program called PC Doctor. You can get a free copy for your A31 system from here:

http://www-307.ibm.com/pc/support/site. ... MIGR-41920 (floppy-based)
http://www-307.ibm.com/pc/support/site. ... MIGR-56222 (bootable CD)

- I would run at least the CPU/coprocessor, systemboard, thermal sensor and fan tests to verify that most of the motherboard is operating properly.
- again, assuming that no fails are detected so far, begin re-installing each hardware piece you previously removed, one at a time. For your situation, I'd start with the MiniPCI card (modem or modem/wireless combo). Boot PC Doctor and run the test specifically for that one item you re-installed.
- continue to re-install pieces and if there's a test for it inside PC Doctor, run that diagnostic. Once you get back to the point where all of the hardware has been re-installed and PC Doctor says everything is good, then you should be able to load a proper OS. I wouldn't trust using a recovery disk designed for some other non-Thinkpad system since the driver support may not be there. Use either a retail copy of Windows or an IBM recovery disk set.

[Shadikku]

I've already ordered a new fan, as for the ram I've already tried that, and I only have one CD bay the left side I removed for air induction, But my PCI Mini card Slot "Ethernet" It Did this before I installed it. but What I am trying to figure out why is it booting perfectly without the battery and when I do hook it back up it freezes on boot every time.

I don't know if this important or but before it freezes all the components lights flicker, but when It does boot they all light up, Im Swamped.

But about that Recovery Disk, I have Every single A31 Drivers on a CDROM I got from the original owner so I know everythings installed. :/

[rkawakami]

If it's a question of whether or not the battery is plugged in when you get this booting problem, then I tend to believe you have a problem with the motherboard. In looking back through the archives I find these:

http://forum.thinkpads.com/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=15220
http://forum.thinkpads.com/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=44182

In addition, the A3x systems do have a problem with the GPU coming loose, although in my experience this leads to visible display issues (sometimes with power problems and/or locking up). If your display is without any errors (randomly colored blocks or lines across the screen), then I'd say it's not a GPU issue but something else on the motherboard. Your lack of USB power, for example, could be a sign of this.

[Shadikku]

I am believing its power related cause once I run the cpu hard the battery drains and recharges, something we all know labtops Arent supposed to do.

[Argonaught]

Just my 2c worth
If you go back to the basics of PC repair, irrispective of desktop or laptop, if ANY machine acts like that, (boots into the OS in safe mode and wont go past post in standard mode) means its one of your perifials. You say you have replaced the RAM and CPU Fan but the machine still wont boot in standard mode. You have taken out the battery (irelevant) and the modem and anything else, as well as the parts in both ultra bays... so we can rule out faulty componants. This only leaves the graphics and the USB Ports.. From my perspective I've noticed if a A3X runs hot the GPU gets iffy very quickly ( you said the original CPU fan, when you got it, had no blades.. so we can say that the poor thing must have run hot).

To check your power put a tester across your power brick..anything between 16V and 19V will suffive (winces and waits for the backlash from the purists)

You also state the USB's are broken.. They might be shorting out..I'm not sure if the USB is active in safe mode..but in my opinion its either a short in the USB's or the GPU

In safe mode the graphics are set in 256 bit mode. I suggest while in safe mode change the graphics mode to the lowest possible settings (ie 265 bit and 400X600 and ie smallest palate the system will allow) and reboot into Windows. If the machine goes past post and boots into XP you know to reflow the GPU. HOWEVER....... Here I'd suggest buying either from here or on Ebay a replacement board and installing it, as the cost of reflowing outweighs a replacement board. If its the USB's its easy to unsolder the broken ones and if you can obtain ones from someone else otherwise broken mobo, and solder on new ones.. Choice is yours. Personally for me, just replace the mobo.

[Shadikku]

Just my 2c worth
If you go back to the basics of PC repair, irrispective of desktop or laptop, if ANY machine acts like that, (boots into the OS in safe mode and wont go past post in standard mode) means its one of your perifials. You say you have replaced the RAM and CPU Fan but the machine still wont boot in standard mode. You have taken out the battery (irelevant) and the modem and anything else, as well as the parts in both ultra bays... so we can rule out faulty componants. This only leaves the graphics and the USB Ports.. From my perspective I've noticed if a A3X runs hot the GPU gets iffy very quickly ( you said the original CPU fan, when you got it, had no blades.. so we can say that the poor thing must have run hot).

To check your power put a tester across your power brick..anything between 16V and 19V will suffive (winces and waits for the backlash from the purists)

You also state the USB's are broken.. They might be shorting out..I'm not sure if the USB is active in safe mode..but in my opinion its either a short in the USB's or the GPU

In safe mode the graphics are set in 256 bit mode. I suggest while in safe mode change the graphics mode to the lowest possible settings (ie 265 bit and 400X600 and ie smallest palate the system will allow) and reboot into Windows. If the machine goes past post and boots into XP you know to reflow the GPU. HOWEVER....... Here I'd suggest buying either from here or on Ebay a replacement board and installing it, as the cost of reflowing outweighs a replacement board. If its the USB's its easy to unsolder the broken ones and if you can obtain ones from someone else otherwise broken mobo, and solder on new ones.. Choice is yours. Personally for me, just replace the mobo.

I know this is a bit of a bump, But I've found and corrected to problem to a mild bother, It turned out it was a power setting in the BIOS, Just my luck -_- and the heatsink's tempature gauge is almost fried so it think's it's running to hot to boot (geek squad told me that), So I disabled it, All I have to do know is boot without the battery first and let it get warmed up then reboot with the battery in and I have no problems with it as far as the GPU goes she's 100% in shape. and I quick question about the ethernet on the A Series. Edit: As far as the USB's goes I just snipped them off and I bought a PC Card USB HUB Solved the problem completely

[ajkula66]

Shadikku wrote:

But I've found and corrected to problem to a mild bother, It turned out it was a power setting in the BIOS, Just my luck -_- and the heatsink's tempature gauge is almost fried so it think's it's running to hot to boot (geek squad told me that), So I disabled it,

NOT a smart move...disabling temperature sensor, especially on an A3x unit where cooling leaves a lot to be desired in the first place.

Secondly, a healthy machine should boot all the way with any power setting in BIOS. Period.

Thirdly, I've stopped counted ThinkPads that geeksquad had messed with that ended up in my workroom afterward years ago...

Good luck, something tells me you'll need it...

[Shadikku]

NOT a smart move...disabling temperature sensor, especially on an A3x unit where cooling leaves a lot to be desired in the first place.

Secondly, a healthy machine should boot all the way with any power setting in BIOS. Period.

Thirdly, I've stopped counted ThinkPads that geeksquad had messed with that ended up in my workroom afterward years ago...

Good luck, something tells me you'll need it...

If that was a insult then I'm not offended, and second of all, I don't have like money coming out at me like candy so I can't just buy this and that for it.

[sjthinkpader]

Not that I like AJ's tone but what he said is spot on.

Geek Squads are not dummies by any means. But they are generalists and people here are specialists, on Thinkpads. I also saw work by Geek Squads in Thinkpads and I agree with AJ 100%.

[ajkula66]

@Shadikku:

I had no intent of insulting/offending you, but was merely stating the facts.

Not too many people around here have money to burn, myself included.

But taking shortcuts when repairing a ThinkPad, and relying on geeksquad advice is likely to be more expensive in the long run.

Will they replace your planar free of charge when it dies from overheating? I don't believe so.

I've probably ripped apart more A3x units than all the geeksquads in this country combined, and likely with less damage to my customers.

I love A3x machines. I'm passionate about keeping them running, and in good working order, whether they're mine or not.

My advice is free, like everyone else's on this forum. Even some parts, if one is restoring an A3x and is lacking funds, can be had for free.

That's where I was coming from with my previous post.

As previously stated, good luck.

[sjthinkpader]

... I need to figure out to re soldier the USB Ports, Mine Are Burn out....

....Edit: As far as the USB's goes I just snipped them off and I bought a PC Card USB HUB Solved the problem completely

I venture to guess your USB port was not "burned out" but the center plastic piece was "broken off". This is a common problem when someone tripped on a USB cable and the A31 being heavy enough that it doesn't budge and the connector broke instead.

The replacement double USB connectors are available at many places. You can just remove the broken one and solder in a new one. Locally in Silicon Valley, Anchor Electronics in Santa Clara has them.

USB2.0 PCCard in a full dock works fine too.

[Shadikku]

I venture to guess your USB port was not "burned out" but the center plastic piece was "broken off". This is a common problem when someone tripped on a USB cable and the A31 being heavy enough that it doesn't budge and the connector broke instead.

The replacement double USB connectors are available at many places. You can just remove the broken one and solder in a new one. Locally in Silicon Valley, Anchor Electronics in Santa Clara has them.

USB2.0 PCCard in a full dock works fine too.

No the heat melted the plastic and binded them together causing a short on boot everytime, as far as the other issues go I did take it to geek squad all they told me theres nothing they can do about my problem cause during a diagnostics test they didn't find anything wrong except my battery is 37% taking no charge which I know that. But they did mention it could be cause I upgraded my processor to a unmanageable clock speed, but still doesn't figure out why it will only fully boot when it's warmed up.

[Harryc]

A couple of things ... call me simple but if your machine works fine with the battery removed, but all hell breaks loose with it installed, you have to suspect a defective battery ("is 37% taking no charge"). I had a Thinkpad on my workbench last month that would not power on due to a bad battery. Secondly, in your sig you listed "Intel Core 2 Duo T5250 (1.9GHz), ". An A31 never came with that CPU. It should be "Pentium 4M 1.9Ghz, "

[ajkula66]

Shadikku wrote:

But they did mention it could be cause I upgraded my processor to a unmanageable clock speed, but still doesn't figure out why it will only fully boot when it's warmed up.

There is no such thing as "unmanageable clock speed". Shows once again that they have absolutely no clue of what they're looking at when it comes to ThinkPads.

A proper CPU (P4M up to 2.6 Ghz) will work-it may or may not run hot depending on a variety of factors-anything else won't even boot and would likely damage the board if one attempted to install it...

Apart from Harry's notion on the battery being the likely culprit, I'd suspect a possible defect in the charging circuit itself, but you won't be able to test that properly without a half-decent battery...

Good luck.

[schen]

No the heat melted the plastic and binded them together causing a short on boot everytime, as far as the other issues go I did take it to geek squad all they told me theres nothing they can do about my problem cause during a diagnostics test they didn't find anything wrong except my battery is 37% taking no charge which I know that. But they did mention it could be cause I upgraded my processor to a unmanageable clock speed, but still doesn't figure out why it will only fully boot when it's warmed up.

OK, I've looked at HarryC's post as well and these others and since I can't really read your sig., can you tell us what CPU you're using in this A31?

Since, as AJ has said already, if you are using anything other than on of the P4-M processors, it's probably the main source of problems that needs to be resolved before anything else is even looked at.

[RealBlackStuff]

His signature reads as follows:

Thinkpad A31
Intel Core 2 Duo T5250 (1.9GHz), highly suspect!
2GB Of RAM,
150GB Hardrive
350GB External
Rosewell PC Card USB HUB
Intel PRO/100 VE Network Connection,
Intel PRO/Wireless 2200BG Network Connection
Windows XP Professional Student Edition

[schen]

Yeah, I saw that after copying the sig to Word and blowing it up, but thought I'd better double-check that given it's nothing I've ever seen before!

[sjthinkpader]

....No the heat melted the plastic and binded them together causing a short on boot everytime, as far as the other issues go I did take it to geek squad all they told me theres nothing they can do about my problem cause during a diagnostics test they didn't find anything wrong except my battery is 37% taking no charge which I know that. But they did mention it could be cause I upgraded my processor to a unmanageable clock speed, but still doesn't figure out why it will only fully boot when it's warmed up.

If you cannot clip the touching pins in the USB connector from the outside to stop the short; then you can chip the pins from the back side, after removing the small metal cover. I would go ahead and replace the connector. They have the double USB connector here:
http://www.anchor-electronics.com/

Harry already answered the battery part.