Help: Ford Taurus experts?

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spt60
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Help: Ford Taurus experts?

#1 Post by spt60 » Thu May 29, 2008 8:23 am

My 1999 Taurus SE Wagon steering wheel makes noise when I hard turn left or right. I did lots of searching online for the problems and most of the answers are CV-joint. However, my car does not shake when I drive or turn. The steering wheel makes noise like something within needs to be lubricated.

When I close all the windows, I hear much clearer that the noise is inside the seating-cabin area. If it's CV-joint, the noise would be outside and when closing the windows it should be less noisy when turning.

I tried to locate where the noise came from and I'm 90% sure that it came from right underneath the steering wheel, where the turning signal stick and the gear-stick are at. The gear-stick is there because my car is a wagon, pretty much the same location with van's gear-stick.

I tried to pop the plastic covers around the collar of the steering wheel but couldn't. I didn't try very hard since I didn't want to force breaking anything.

Any ideas? Thanks!

:)

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#2 Post by Kyocera » Thu May 29, 2008 8:40 am

I had a taurus and had a very similar sounding problem, actually jacked up the car and physically checked the CV joints and they were fine. Ultimately what it turned out to be is the Strut bearings which are at the very top of the struts underneath the wheel wells. When the wheels are turned the top of the strut which is mounted to the wheel well is stationary the strut rotates and the top mounting plate stays put.

These bearings go out on taurus' for some reason. It was to costly to repair so I was able to jack up the car and pack grease into the very top of the area where the strut bearings are located. If your mechanically inclined try this or buy a can of white lithium grease connect an extension hose on the nossle and see if you can get some lube up in there. This worked for me enough to keep driving without the annoying noise.

You could check the CV joints by removing the wheels and visually checking the boots for leakage, tears, dry rot. Also grab the shaft itself and try to wiggle it around, if there is no play you are good to go, if they flop around, park the car and get a couple at auto zone. Installing new Struts and CV joints is kind of a major thing. To replace struts you need a spring compressor and have to remove the front rotor assemblies. To replace the CV joints it a similar procedure, but i recommend getting a manual to avoid doing something (like dropping the cv shaft bearing inside the trans) that will ultimately lead to more costly repairs.

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#3 Post by spt60 » Thu May 29, 2008 8:58 am

Kyocera wrote:the Strut bearings which are at the very top of the struts underneath the wheel wells
Can you make that a little clearer? What/Where is the "wheel wells"?

May I use WD-40 to grease it?

Thanks very much for your reply. :)

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#4 Post by Kyocera » Thu May 29, 2008 9:26 am


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#5 Post by carbon_unit » Thu May 29, 2008 1:19 pm

Them is some Madd drawing skillz there Mike. :wink:
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#6 Post by Kyocera » Thu May 29, 2008 4:18 pm

Tim, thanks :) feel free to download my art and make copies, and distribute amongst your friends! If you want to send me the copies and I will personally sign them for you! :thumbs-UP:

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#7 Post by goofyGAguy » Thu May 29, 2008 5:14 pm

spt60 wrote:
May I use WD-40 to grease it?
WD-40 is NOT a grease!

It's a water displacer.

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#8 Post by jdhurst » Thu May 29, 2008 5:42 pm

I had that kind of noise on one of my Volvo's. The car worked just fine otherwise, but it *was* the CV joint. Boot broke, and water got in which is death to CV joints. They are a safety item as well.
... JDH

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#9 Post by goofyGAguy » Thu May 29, 2008 6:08 pm

carbon_unit wrote:Them is some Madd drawing skillz there Mike. :wink:
I gave it 5 stars.

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#10 Post by carbon_unit » Thu May 29, 2008 6:11 pm

Actually it is the grease getting out when the boot breaks that kills the CV joint. They have to be constantly immersed in grease to live.
Usually the strut bearings are sealed to keep water out but when they start to fail they get loose and the seal leaks allowing lubricant and the elements in. Spraying something up there only prolongs the inevitable.
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#11 Post by Kyocera » Thu May 29, 2008 6:23 pm

JD wrote:They are a safety item as well.
Definately. That's why I said if it is the CV joints park the thing immediately :shock: If the joints break the front wheel could come off. I'm sure some of us have seen that car on the side of the road with the front wheel completely ripped off.

Another way you can test if it is the CV axle is to drive in reverse in a tight circle and if you hear the clunking noise it is the joints.
From reading the description you give though it sure sounds like the Strut bearings, you take it to a shop and ask them to check it out, but i'm sure they will charge and I honestly don't trust to many shops other than the dealerships with certified guys. And they to can be questionable.

Get another set of ears, open the hood, start the car and turn the wheels back and forth and listen for that annoying squeak, if you hear it and the car is not moving it's not the CV axles, but definately the strut bearings.

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#12 Post by skitty4gzus » Thu May 29, 2008 10:14 pm

not that your an idiot OP, but if you dont know what wheel wells on the car are it would be much easier to take it to a shop. not trying to be mean in anyway. And, cv joints snapping does not mean the wheel will fall off. the cv joint is not the link that holds the wheel to the car. the wheel is mounted securely to a hub, which is mounted to A-arms or wishbones, those are in turn mounted straight off the frame. It would literally take some sort of amazing act of God for a cv to snap and it flopping around cause some sort of collateral damage that would cause the arms to break. A cv break will however leave you stranded somewhere horrible, because it probably wont happen pulling into the driveway.
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#13 Post by Kyocera » Thu May 29, 2008 10:33 pm

And, cv joints snapping does not mean the wheel will fall off
I didn't say the wheel would fall off I said it could be ripped off. CV axles (half shaft) are solid steel and weigh upwards of 40lbs. Spinning at an extremely high rate of speed they can rip and snap and tear things apart like an explosion at high speeds. it is highly recommended that if you diagnose a bad CV joint to not drive the car at all until you get them replaced. So it's something I would seriously worry about. There is a lot of information on this, some just pure bull. But I'd rather err on the side of caution.

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#14 Post by spt60 » Fri May 30, 2008 1:34 pm

Kyocera wrote: Another way you can test if it is the CV axle is to drive in reverse in a tight circle and if you hear the clunking noise it is the joints.
I tried that and there's no noise at all, either left or right reverse.
Kyocera wrote:Get another set of ears, open the hood, start the car and turn the wheels back and forth and listen for that annoying squeak, if you hear it and the car is not moving it's not the CV axles, but definitely the strut bearings.
I think it's the strut bearings. How much does this usually cost to fix this? Is it considered heavy work or simple procedure? Is there any easy way I can lubricate this?

How long can my car leave with this (how dangerous is it)?

Thanks! :)

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#15 Post by Kyocera » Fri May 30, 2008 1:44 pm

Other than the aggrevation of the noise and extra stress on the power steering pump it really is not a big deal. To replace the bearings you have to remove the struts and either replace the entire strut as an assembly or just get the bearings replaced. This is a rough guess but probably upwards of $300. It's the labor involved. I'l just call a couple of tire/service centers because they are usually equipped to do this. If you get the struts replaced, which is kind of a good ideal if you have over say 80K on the vehicle your looking at $700. If they are really bad and you can feel the wheels pulling to the left or right after a turn it means that the bearing are locking in place and causing the wheel to point in another direction other than straight ahead, this causes wear on tires too.

There is no easy way to lubricate them other than the way I explained above. If you could shine a flashlight under the wheel well in some darkness up toward the strut bearing (see technical drawing in above post) and if there just happens to be a hole in the engine compartment where you can see enough of the bearing to shoot some lithium grease at it and hope some soaks into the bearing.....that might work.

If not enjoy that screeching sound like fingernails on the chalkboard when you turn :P

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#16 Post by Andersonjoe711 » Fri May 30, 2008 3:34 pm

I'd check your power steering fluid, and make sure it's not low. My sebring gives me noises in turns every once and a while, and sometimes its that the fluid is a bit low.

Bigger problem, I know, but i'm a poor college kid and band-aids are easier and cheaper!
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#17 Post by Miller88 » Fri May 30, 2008 5:48 pm

When I had a wheel bearing replaced in my 2001 Taurus (back in Jan of 07), it made a noise while turning left. After a while, the noise stopped.

Is it a whining noise? Fords are well known for whiney power steering pumps

Does the noise depend on suspension load? IE does it make the noise louder if you are taking a turn at 55 versus 35?

If a CV joint breaks, the car won't move - the "open diff" in the transaxle will transmit the power to the halfshaft with the broken CV joint. A ball joint ... that would be bad if it breaks.

There's a site full of Taurus enthusiasts http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/index.php
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#18 Post by spt60 » Sat May 31, 2008 9:48 am

What should be the color of the power steering fluid? Mine is dark black when the engine's hot :|

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#19 Post by Kyocera » Sat May 31, 2008 10:08 am

It should be kind of red. Fords can use mercon transmission fluid as recommened in the owners manual. If you turn the wheels and hear a Whining sound that is kind of normal for fords as they are known for less than wonderful power steering systems within your year model.

A whine is not a squeak and i've heard both these noises on my Taurus (may god rest it's soul) adding pwr steering fluid will not eliminate the whining sound, changing the pwr steering fluid will not eliminate it either. Spending exhorbitant amounts of money to have the entire steering system replaced will. Hardley worth it though. And above all don't use pwr steering additives that claim to make it like new.

So you either have a whine or a squeaking type noise, or if as mentioned it a wheel bearing it would probably give a high pitched shreeking sound when moving or turning while the vehicle is moving.

You kind of have to determine what noise you have. And inspect that area, like a detective.

If the vehicle is in PARK and you turn the wheels left and right WHAT sound do you hear?? I'd bet my X31 you hear whining from the power steering.
IF you elevate both front wheels to take the pressure off the strut bearings you will not hear the shreaking this could possibly be a way to eliminate one aspect of your troubleshooting. And while you have it elevated spin both front wheels and listen for anything other than the wheel spinning which should not generate any noise unless your brakes are getting to the point of needing replacement and there is a mechanism built in that squeaks to let you know the pads are getting worn.

Good luck.

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#20 Post by goofyGAguy » Sat May 31, 2008 9:25 pm

spt60 wrote:What should be the color of the power steering fluid? Mine is dark black when the engine's hot :|
Your PS fluid is oxidized. Have the system flushed ASAP.

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#21 Post by spt60 » Mon Jun 02, 2008 8:32 am

goofyGAguy wrote:
spt60 wrote:What should be the color of the power steering fluid? Mine is dark black when the engine's hot :|
Your PS fluid is oxidized. Have the system flushed ASAP.
How bad does this concern? Can I flush it by myself? :?

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#22 Post by Miller88 » Mon Jun 02, 2008 4:48 pm

It is somewhat involved to flush it yourself. What I have been doing is sucking the reservoir dry and the replacing the fluid. Done it about 6 times so far.
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#23 Post by spt60 » Tue Jun 03, 2008 8:50 am

Miller88 wrote:It is somewhat involved to flush it yourself. What I have been doing is sucking the reservoir dry and the replacing the fluid. Done it about 6 times so far.
You mean using the baster to suck all of it out from top and refill?

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#24 Post by goofyGAguy » Tue Jun 03, 2008 7:05 pm

spt60 wrote:
You mean using the baster to suck all of it out from top and refill?

Yes, just don't remove so much fluid that air is allowed into the system.

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