Thinkpads Forum

I just bought a used monitor on ebay. Instead of pulling off the bezel and replacing the LCD panel (which I have some experience with), I was wondering if it is easier to replace the monitor hinges and all.

I looked at the repair manual and it looks like quite an ordeal. Any suggestions?

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My only suggestion is to get the manual "up" so you can look at it, and be patient, and remember---several other brands don't HAVE the detailed maintenance manual that Thinkpads have

With a few small screwdrivers, and patience with the 'book' you should be fine. Be careful of the internal connectors, and be aware that some of the ribbon connectors have a gate or latch that must be gently pried up to release the ribbon.


Also, be aware of ESD---static. Work in a static free area if possible, and stay away from stocking feet on carpet. "Keep in touch" with the ground plane of the laptop--the rear panel port grounds, in other words.

Larry_61 wrote:...I was wondering if it is easier to replace the monitor hinges and all....

Larry,

My vote would be for an entire lid swap. Remove battery, optical drive, hard drive, keyboard and then the lid (LCD panel) comes out. As 440RoadRunner says, keep your static potential in check, including not sliding around in your cloth-covered chair (wooden is best, stay away from plastic). From memory, since I've taken some of my 600X systems apart in the last few weeks: (600 or 600E may be slightly different)

After hard drive and optical drives have been removed, there are four small screws at the front edge of the laptop bottom.

The remaining screws are normally covered by small, round plastic covers. If they are gone it usually means someone was there before you.

One screw inside battery compartment

Six screws on the bottom of the laptop (four on back edge, two toward center). Be careful! There are two different length long screws used here. You can tell which ones goes where by looking at the "arrows" next to the screw holes. There are three different length arrows; the short one is obvious since it just looks like a "V". The two longer arrows are visibly different in length. Just match the arrows to the shorter or the longer of the two "long" screws.

One screw on the top of the keyboard next to the "600" logo. That should free up the keyboard to be swung upward. Raise it up to about a 45 degree angle and then slide your hand inside to remove the two ribbon cable connectors. Tiny fingers help here! Rock the two connectors off the motherboard and then lift the keyboard out. Also, remove the sliding power button since if you now turn over the laptop, it will simply fall out and you may lose/break it (almost happened to me!) There is also the thin bezel running the length of the back side of the laptop, just underneath the display. Tiny tabs hold it in place.

Even if you were going to just replace the LCD panel you would still have to do all of these steps. There should be two ribbon cables coming from the display; a large one on the right (held by two screws I think) and a smaller one going to the Sub Card (which is secured by one screw). Remove both cables.

Four screws on the back side of the laptop and two inside the case (one at each corner) are now the only ones securing the LCD panel to the bottom part of the case. I remove the ones inside the case first, then one on each end on the back and then the final two. That should free up the panel.

Re-assemble in reverse. Don't forget to put the power slider on before mounting the keyboard!

Did I forget anything?

Wow. Sounds like you've done that a couple of times in the past! Great detail.

Much thanks for the advice. I pulled off the old lid and LCD display and replaced it. Of course, when I turned on the machine, the monitor didn't work. I suppose I will go back and see if connected the cables properly.

Also, in my ham handedness, I tore the tab from a small connector to the keyboard. I tried soder it back in place. I suspect I may need a keyboard replacement, too

I had problems replacing the thin bezil that is situated by the hinges. Any advice on that little conundrum?

Thanks again. I appreciate your detailed instructions. I did follow the manual and your advice. I will keep you updated.

Larry_61 wrote:Much thanks for the advice. I pulled off the old lid and LCD display and replaced it. Of course, when I turned on the machine, the monitor didn't work. I suppose I will go back and see if connected the cables properly.

Anytime you have monitor problems with the 600 series, be sure to first cycle through the LCD/external monitor settings before you consider disassembly of the laptop. Normally, most systems are setup for LCD panel only. You can toggle to external monitor (VGA port located on the back panel) only and then both LCD and external activated. This is done by holding down the "Fn" function key and then pressing the "F7" key and then releasing the "F7" key. Each time you press and release the "F7" key (while still holding down the "Fn" key) you cycle between those three settings, in that order (LCD panel only, external VGA only, both LCD and VGA active). If you have access to an external monitor, plug it into the VGA port and see if you have video there for at least two out of the three toggles of the "F7" key. If so, this will tell you that the laptop's motherboard is generating video signals. If you do have video on the external VGA port and the LCD panel is not active at any time during the sequencing of the video settings, then the problem could be in the two ribbon cables from the LCD, the LCD backlight or the inverter board. As you appear to have had a problem with your original LCD panel and now with a (presumed working) replacement display, it's still not possible to determine where your problem lies. As far as I can see, you could have a bad motherboard or a bad Sub Card (the small PC board that sits above the docking port connector and to which one of the LCD ribbon cables plugs into). The results of an external monitor test would be very useful.

Also, in my ham handedness, I tore the tab from a small connector to the keyboard. I tried soder it back in place. I suspect I may need a keyboard replacement, too

If the tab (orange ribbon cable with a small piece of white foam) you are talking about is the one that is located almost directly underneath the "F6" key, then I believe that only connects the speakers to the motherboard. It should not affect any keys, nor the video display.

I had problems replacing the thin bezil that is situated by the hinges. Any advice on that little conundrum?

That strip has tabs on both ends. The strip can be replaced by first sticking one end (right or left) into the small square hole that is located near the back corners of the case. Working from that corner, push the strip straight in toward the back of the case. There are a couple of small slits on the back panel of the case, just above the VGA, docking and parallel ports. Matching tabs are located on the thin bezel. Make sure they line up to each other. Continue working toward the other end of the strip until the second tab is also latched into the square hole.

This is a non-progress report. I cycled through the three stages on an external monitor. Two out of the three worked, so I figure the motherboard is generating video signals.

I subsequently replaced the inverter (I have a couple from previous monitors) and still did not get a signal on the LCD. I double checked cable connections. Everything is secure.

1. The backlight does not work on two of the monitors I have bought as replacements, or
2. The monitor cables themselves are bad. (I have spare ones).

Are there any reasons the monitor is not providing a flicker of light?

I may try to do a backlight replacement as depicted in the thorough tutorial.

BTW, I did replacement the speaker cable and the sound is fine.

Flummixed, but never defeated!!!

From your description of your troubleshooting procedure it sounds like you have probably eliminated everything except the motherboard and the Sub Card. My vote for the next thing to check/replace is the Sub Card (or possibly one of the cables).

But first, is the problem you are seeing ONLY the lack of a backlight? The video signals may actually be reaching the LCD but if there is no backlight, you usually cannot see any of the pixels. Make sure that the LCD panel is selected through the Fn+F7 combination (that's the one where there is NO external video from the VGA port). Turn the laptop on and shine a bright flashlight onto the display from about a 45 degree angle, as close to the screen as possible, either from the top downward or from the sides. If there are any active pixels, you should see them. I know this works with the TFT screens; no sure about the HPA ones. If you see the proper image using this technique, then the video signals are reaching the LCD and your problem is solely with the backlight circuit.

Assuming that you can see pixels, then I would say your next step would be to look at/replace the Sub Card. This is the small, thin, rectangular board that the ribbon cable from the LCD plugs into (FRU 05K3468 for the 600, 10L1193 for the 600E, page 81 in the Hardware Manual). The first thing to check is the switch on the left hand side of that board. This is the lid closure switch. If that switch is broken, that will prevent any backlight from turning on. Turn on the laptop and then poke (gently) at the lever just above the F2 key. It may just be dirty or stuck "off" (down). If that doesn't fix your problem then you may have to try replacing the entire Sub Card. They are fairly cheap on eBay (around $10-$15). Or if you think the problem is simply a broken switch, then check this thread:

http://forum.thinkpads.com/viewtopic.php?t=25398

In it I have detailed my replacement of this switch.

And as a last point in this very long response... I have a 600E which has a problem with a delayed backlight turn on. It will eventually light up after about 5 minutes. Have you tried just letting the laptop sit for awhile?