CPU upgrade successful, but screen is dark...

[nitro2k01]

So here's my upgrade report. I bought a PIII 500 MHz to replace the PII 400 MHz that was currently in my 600E. My first problem was to get into the thing. It went alright until the keyboard suddenly wouldn't move. To make a long story short, I kept on pulling and pulling, but the problem was really that I forgot to remove the screw just to the right of the IBM logo on the keyboard side.

That gave me the only real problem left after the upgrade. It seems that I've accidently torn off the lid-close-button. That's a bummer, because although I can use the computer, I have a choice between using an external screen or having no backlight. (Fn+F7) Where the button used to be, are three metal pins. How should I hardwire them to make the computer believe the lid is always open? (So the light goes on) Alternatively, is there a way to manually turn the backlight on from Windows or elsehow.
Update: After a little experimenting, I can get the screen to light up during POST and the text screen before Windows boots. But as soon as Windows enters any kind of graphics mode, the light goes out. (Which means that I know the problem is not in the physical power connection to the light.)

Next thing is about the L2 cache. I forgot to turn it off before replacing the CPU. And when I booted it up I got the awaited error 127. What's annoying is that I can get into Windows, but not into the setup. So I can use the computer just fine, (Powerleap does the job) but with a little longer boot process, but I can't get into setup to permanently disable L2 cache at boot time. What a celver BIOS!
(Update: I opened up the computer and switched the CPU's just to fix the BIOS, but still it might be good to know how to get into to setup when there's an error)

A little note about a question I saw somewhere (Possibly on wimsbios) Why does my CPU appear to have 128kb of L2 cache when it should have 256kb? Well, for me both cpuz and PL reports 256 kb L2 cache and no L3 cache, but the latency calc app included with cpuz tells me I have 128 kb L2 and 256 kb L3. That's a weird result, I'm not sure why this happens, or which app is right, but if that person sees this, give it a try and report the result.

Apart from these minor problems, the upgrade made my 600E both faster and cooler. And my long term goal with the mod, to be able to run a music program called "Reaktor" went according to plan.
When I feel brave enough I'll do the 650 MHz mod as well.
Big thanks to cmarti (CPU seller) and the other on this forum for answering my questions and making me dear doing this. (:

[cmarti]

That gave me the only real problem left after the upgrade. It seems that I've accidently torn off the lid-close-button.

Nitro,

Here is a subcard that is selling cheap on ebay that is what you need to repair the broken switch.

(Update: I opened up the computer and switched the CPU's just to fix the BIOS, but still it might be good to know how to get into to setup when there's an error)

To enter in the the setup screen do this:

With the laptop off press f1 and then keep it pressed and then turn on the lappy, that way you wil be able to enter.

From there do this:

When you boot, you get bios post error 127. Then you shoud do the following:

Choose "test", choose "exit", choose "config", hit "ctrl-d", opens
bios hex-editor. Take cursor to position 20, key "02" -> "0A", hit "F2", hit "esc", choose "exit", choose "ok", and reboot.

Next boot should go without error-127

The hex-editor calculates the checksum automatically.

In case you edit the bios data and the machine doesn't boot correctly, you can always reset the CMOS data by taking out the bios cmos battery for 30 seconds. After that the next boot will preset it to initial values (you have to set the time also).

A little note about a question I saw somewhere (Possibly on wimsbios) Why does my CPU appear to have 128kb of L2 cache when it should have 256kb? Well, for me both cpuz and PL reports 256 kb L2 cache and no L3 cache, but the latency calc app included with cpuz tells me I have 128 kb L2 and 256 kb L3. That's a weird result, I'm not sure why this happens, or which app is right, but if that person sees this, give it a try and report the result.

I have to check with my 770Z that i don't remember if i see that behaviour.

When I feel brave enough I'll do the 650 MHz mod as well.
Big thanks to cmarti (CPU seller) and the other on this forum for answering my questions and making me dear doing this.

Thanks to you and good luck!

[cmarti]

Hey!



Nitro read this thread.

[nitro2k01]

Ok, final report:

I solved the lid switch problem by putting a pile of solder over the broken switch. The switch was just broken not removed, so its bottom plate is still there, and it's on the pins that stick up from the plate that I've put the solder. As it happens, a friend of mine has a 600 plain lying in parts. With a little luck I can steal his switch, if not I'd rather just keep it the way it is. I like hibernation better than suspension anyway.

As for the speedstep hack, it worked as expected right away. The only thing that bugs me is that easy-setup still says 500 MHz, but pleap reports 650 MHz. I haven't investigated this closely though. (Boot, check easy-setup, 500 MHz, Reboot, check easy-setup, 500 MHz, Boot, go into Windows, 650 MHz, boot means boot form power-off in all three cases, I also blocked the vent hole all three times.) I'll look in both easy-setup and PL on next reboot to see if ES is lying to me.

Btw, any updates on the status for the speedstep hack: Is it possible to force the CPU into 650 MHz without covering the vent?

Unless my friend gives me the switch, this is the last time I'll open my lappie for a while. The 8% overclock might cause heat problems, (I think it's on the edge already now) and soldering on the mainboard seems riskier than soldering on a separate chip. Besides, I think my speed might suffer more from the possible loss of 32 mb of RAM than it will gain from 8% increased clock speed. On the other hand, that one is easy to revert. (Or maybe even connect a switch)

So, for now I'll just call it quit. Once again, I want to give a big thanks to everyone on this board for making the upgrade possible!
But don't think you'll get rid of me just because of that. I'll stick around and torture you with yet more questions. (And if possible share the knowledge I've collected so far)

[cmarti]

As for the speedstep hack, it worked as expected right away. The only thing that bugs me is that easy-setup still says 500 MHz, but pleap reports 650 MHz. I haven't investigated this closely though. (Boot, check easy-setup, 500 MHz, Reboot, check easy-setup, 500 MHz, Boot, go into Windows, 650 MHz, boot means boot form power-off in all three cases, I also blocked the vent hole all three times.) I'll look in both easy-setup and PL on next reboot to see if ES is lying to me.

Easy setup only sees 500mhz beacuse the BIOS is older than the processor and it doesn't see it correctly. Do no worry that doesn't mean anything bad.

Btw, any updates on the status for the speedstep hack: Is it possible to force the CPU into 650 MHz without covering the vent?

Did you change the processor driver?

Try changing the driver from PIII to just "intel" that will make the trick.


And also there is a utility called deepsleep utility you can find it on this thread.

[rkawakami]

I solved the lid switch problem by putting a pile of solder over the broken switch. <snip> Unless my friend gives me the switch, this is the last time I'll open my lappie for a while.

If your supposed "friend" doesn't come through with the switch, you might be interested in this:

Replacing 600X Lid Switch

I believe that the switches are the same between the 600E and 600X Sub Cards. Available from a couple of on-line sources for just over $1, it's the shipping charge that kills you.

[nitro2k01]

Did you change the processor driver?

Try changing the driver from PIII to just "intel" that will make the trick.

How do I do that?

And also there is a utility called deepsleep utility you can find it on this thread.

Interesting! Will deepsleep work even without a modded CPU?
And wouldn't it be quite possible to implement a software speedstep solution based on deepsleep? Or can it only change the speed one way?

[nitro2k01]

I solved the lid switch problem by putting a pile of solder over the broken switch. <snip> Unless my friend gives me the switch, this is the last time I'll open my lappie for a while.

If your supposed "friend" doesn't come through with the switch, you might be interested in this:

Replacing 600X Lid Switch

I believe that the switches are the same between the 600E and 600X Sub Cards. Available from a couple of on-line sources for just over $1, it's the shipping charge that kills you.

The problem isn't really the price, it's that I don't really see the use of the button now that it's gone. Also I've promised myself to open my tp at most one more time, and probably install the 8% overclock that time. The reason I'll only open it once more is partly because it takes time that I don't actually have, and that it adds to the wear and tear of the laptop. And opening it up just to install a switch that I paid for and don't even feel the need for seems a bit off.

[cmarti]

Did you change the processor driver?

Try changing the driver from PIII to just "intel" that will make the trick.

How do I do that?

Go to control panel/system/hardware/device manager/scroll down so you can see the processor/there right click on it and choose update driver from there check the option that says install from a specific location and then choose don't search i will choose the driver to install, then sellect the second driver the one that says intel processor and done reboot and watch as you TP runs now at 650mhz.

Interesting! Will deepsleep work even without a modded CPU?

Well no, it won't.