Thinkpads Forum

Hi All,
I am attempting to bypass the power switch on a thinkpad 600E with another aftermarket switch. I was wondering if anyone here has any insight on the switch on these models and could point me in the right direction.

My goal is to solder the lead wires for the new switch on the posts for the old switch, with the ultimate goal being to have a power switch in a completely different location, 5-6 inches away from its current location. Leaving the current switch in place is fine, I just want to bypass it.

To me, it seems like it could be as easy as jumping the two solder points to see if it works, then soldering an aftermarket switch to those points, however before I ruin my board I thought I'd ask here.

I am working on a project to convert it into a digital picture frame for those who are interested.

Thanks,
John



Moderator note: Added PIC to subject line

Welcome to thinkpads.com!

Without taking apart one of my own 600 systems and testing the switch, it appears to be of a "double pole-double-throw" or DPDT design. The six terminals on the switch is the clue. In this case, you should remove the switch and replace it with the same type. To be totally sure, check for continuity (i.e., use an ohmmeter) between the pins I've labeled here:



I'm taking a guess here that that is the way the switch is wired. With the button not pressed in, you should measure 0 ohms between the COM (common) and N.C. (normally closed) pins and infinity between COM and N.O. (normally open). When you push the switch in, then you should measure 0 ohms between COM and N.O. and infinity between COM and N.C. (just the opposite as before). Do this on the second set of three terminals.

Also, your replacement switch should also be of a spring-loaded design since I'm not sure what would happen to the laptop if you leave the switch in the "pushed" in position for any length of time.

A project like this?

Joe

joester wrote:A project like this?

Joe

That's a nice project I never think something like that would be possible.

Kinda hokey from the rear, but looks great from the front!

I think something like this, but with WIFI and a wireless keyboard and mouse would be nice. Weather updates, local radar, webcam, video phone, hmmm..... camera in the frame....

Joe

Hey, I think I found a use for one of my T23s! Nice find Joe!

Tell you what, Ray...

You send me one of the extra T23's you have, and I'll try this with my T21.

Better yet, send me a couple T23's and I'll make you one!

Joe

OK, I wanted to thank you guys for putting me on the right track. I promised myself I would post the bypass here when I found it. The switch on the thinkpad 600 is spring loaded which to me means that a brief contact between the posts turn the machine on / off. This turned out to be true. Soldering a wire to two posts beneath the motherboard power switch, then touching them together breifly will turn the machine on / off depending on its current state.

Here is a pic of the posts: (Click to make larger)


I thought I would go ahead and make some other pics available of the rest of the project. If your interested let me know and I will email the directions on what I did.

Thanks again guys,
John

Here is a shot of the motherboard. The hard drive has been replaced with a dual compact flash adapter from addonics.
The whole thing is mounted on plexiglass. The LCD is below the motherboard on a separate sheet of plexi and both are mounted together using screws and spacers.

(Click to enlarge)


Note the lack of a keyboard and the small piece of folded tinfoil in its place. I wish I could say it was my idea, but it wasn't. This keeps the motherboard from displaying a missing keyboard error. There is a bios edit that needs to happen in order to have the motherboard stop displaying the missing touchpad error.


From the front. This is the LCD, with the motherboard mounted on the back. The plexi screen doesn't really have scratches, just looks that way because I haven't removed the protective plastic coating yet.


Front view:


The shadow box it will be mounted in:


Soldering the wires to the pwer switch posts on the motherboard. Try not to laugh, its my first time soldering.


The button on the other end (Got it from RadioShack)


Added the final and third sheet of plexi and mounted the power button. (three layers, one to hold the LCD, one for the mobo, one for the power button and ventilation) I cut a square hole in this sheet with my Dremel in order to allow access to the memory cards. and provide ventilation to the mobo. The 128MB CF card is running the DOS 7.1 installation, the one behind it is a 2GB CF card that holds all of the pics. Whenever I need to add pics I can remove the back and pull the card.


Inside the shadow box without the back cover on:


From the back with the cover on. I drilled holes above the heatsink to allow for ventilation.:



And finally from the front:


For software it is running
MS-DOS 7.10 (Yes you read that right, DOS)
LWhiz (DOS picture program -free! to rotate the pics)
IBM PS2.EXE - to ensure the the screen doesn't go to sleep.

Other notes:
There is a switch that disables the display when the lid is closed. I removed this switch (To save space and keep from accidentally turning off the display) from the mobo and it revealed three copper posts. These posts need to be connected (I soldered them together) in order for the display to work. If they are not connected the mobo will not power up.
Boot time:
Takes about 30 seconds to boot up and start running pics, and is whisper quiet.

I removed the PCMCIA slot adapter from the mobo with no problem. Others who want wireless may leave them, but thought it would be nice to know they can be removed with no problem and no error codes.


Again, thanks for the advice rkawakami!

A much more "into it" hack!

Beautifully done. I like the SSD instead of the harddrive too, although for myself I would prefer to have internet and other possibilities remain intact.

Now you got ME planning an attempt!

Joe

Hey I'd like to see someone else give this a try, too. We can learn from each others mistakes. The goal was to build something that was more like a digital picture frame than a computer. I've considered using linux without a GUI in order to add wireless support in order to have it able to talk to the rest of the network. Another thing I found (as an idea) was a guy in Germany (I think) who hand makes these infrared receivers that plug right into to the serial port, in case someone wanted to get fancy and add a remote control to change pictures. All just ideas for the next one, if I ever try it. These things are fun and relaxing to do, especially since a thinkpad 600 can be had on eBay for ~50 or so dollars. I checked the price for an 8 inch digital picture frame at Target the other day and they were asking around $180.00 for one with 128MB of memory. I think one could probably build 2 of these things for that much, and these are 13 inch screens. Anyway, enough ranting.

Have a good one,
-John

PS: Here is the link to the guy that makes infrared transmitters in case anyone is interested:
http://www.ir2pc.com/

Nice work, John. Thanks especially for the instructions and photos. I know there are lots of folks who are interested in exactly this kind of mod.

Phil.

Really nice project, JSunn.

Thanks for posting back the info.


I am working on a very similar project and about 75% done, got pointed to this thread after I asked how to disable the keyboard on 600x. I don't have any pictures or description up yet but I will post a write up somewhere when I am done.

The picture frame is for my grandma so everything needs to be very simple and minimal (i.e. don't have any network or wireless). Short summary:

• Based on linux + minimal X Server (no WM) + FEH image viewer
• Pictures updating is done simply by inserting a USB disk (automatic scripts will detect this, copy the new pictures, do any required housekeeping and restart the slideshow software)
• Mounting external buttons on the frame for on/off, slideslow start/pause and pictures forward/back.
• Toyed with the idea of using the built in infrared for remote but I think I may skip this for this version.

I like your idea of using a solid state drive instead of regular HDD, I am too far into the project to switch now but it is certainly worth considering for the next project.

Cheers,
- barduck