701c Repainting?

[Cooler22]

Hey guys, repainting my 701c and was wondering if anyone knows how to take off the emblems on the cover and keyboard shelf? I also was wondering if anyone knows how to redraw or preserve the painted symbols for battery and HDD caddy. Thanks in advance guys really want to get it looking like it did back in the day.

[RealBlackStuff]

Those emblems are stickers, which you can very carefully remove.
Use the tip of a sharp (e.g. Xacto) knife to lift up a corner, then gently pull them up without bending them.
To preserve the painted symbols, put some protective cover over them (like Kapton or scotch tape) before you paint.
Or take pictures first and then pay an arm and a leg to have some graphics artist repaint them.

[hwattys]

Just from curiosity and because I have a few sticky 701s sitting around, how and with what are you repainting?

[Cooler22]

Just from curiosity and because I have a few sticky 701s sitting around, how and with what are you repainting?

Well first of all I am mostly following http://thinkwiki.de/Gummierung_erneuern as a basis if all else fails but I am going to be using this mixture as well, at /viewtopic.php?f=2&t=67411&hilit=plasti+dip#p452775 I also got a bunch of different plasti-dip and rubberized paints from my hardware store. So once I find the best one I'll post my results and the process as well. I can't figure out how to properly remove the factory stickers as well without damaging or semi-permanent adhesive.

[Cooler22]

Just a little update upon further inspection the original 701c paint has little blue specs mixed with the paint so a proper paint job NEEDS an airbrush. I could skip out on it but it wouldn't be a true restoration of the paint.

[TankPad]

Heat the stickers. They'll come off a lot easier.

[Cooler22]

Can confirm an airbrush will be needed to properly paint the Thinkpad. At the moment I have nearly found the perfect setup. BUT I need to buy an airbrush later this week, as I need to mix the paints with the blue glitter to fully match the original finish. Its also worth noting that the 701C has at least 3 layers of different Paint, a flat black, a black with blue glitter and the rubberized black-grey with a tiny bit of blue glitter.

I have also decided to 3D Print a new lid as the old one had WAY too many cracks to fix and epoxy did not work very well. It will hopefully make for a good replacement again as many 701c hinges seem to be very prone to cracking (and breaking). I will also post the 3D model for anyone else that wants to print it once its finished.

[Cooler22]

Well I am in contact with a place that is willing to do Magnesium Alloy 3D printing as a one-off. What do you guys think of a metal based 701C housing?

I am also considering just plain ABS to keep it original. I would pick up a spare/parts machine but I'd like to keep parts/machines circulating for other people who need them as well.

[Thinkpad4by3]

Well I am in contact with a place that is willing to do Magnesium Alloy 3D printing as a one-off. What do you guys think of a metal based 701C housing?

I am also considering just plain ABS to keep it original. I would pick up a spare/parts machine but I'd like to keep parts/machines circulating for other people who need them as well.

METAL 701C FTW!!!!

i want that metal 701c. Get the parts (STAINLESS STEEL) 3d printed from shapeways!

[Cooler22]

Hmm, stainless steel does not sound that bad... I was also thinking of taking the T,W,X approach and making a roll-cage for the 701c. Maybe even fabricate a Thinklight, the 755CV screen and paint the enter button blue . But metal chassis gets dented and scratched easily but the rubber paint will likely make up for it. Its also not like ABS doesn't crack nor scratch, if anything its much harder to repair with JB Weld or melting together .

Seriously though is adding a Thinklight too bloat ?

[Thinkpad4by3]

Hmm, stainless steel does not sound that bad... I was also thinking of taking the T,W,X approach and making a roll-cage for the 701c. Maybe even fabricate a Thinklight, the 755CV screen and paint the enter button blue . But metal chassis gets dented and scratched easily but the rubber paint will likely make up for it. Its also not like ABS doesn't crack nor scratch, if anything its much harder to repair with JB Weld or melting together .

Seriously though is adding a Thinklight too bloat ?

Ok, thinklight is probably overkill but nice idea. my idea was putting a powerbutton in an alternate location, say on the top like on the TP 345 or 355 or somewhere else. Its just a pain in the but to get the machine turned on with the keyboard open.

[Cooler22]

Hmm, stainless steel does not sound that bad... I was also thinking of taking the T,W,X approach and making a roll-cage for the 701c. Maybe even fabricate a Thinklight, the 755CV screen and paint the enter button blue . But metal chassis gets dented and scratched easily but the rubber paint will likely make up for it. Its also not like ABS doesn't crack nor scratch, if anything its much harder to repair with JB Weld or melting together .

Seriously though is adding a Thinklight too bloat ?

Ok, thinklight is probably overkill but nice idea. my idea was putting a powerbutton in an alternate location, say on the top like on the TP 345 or 355 or somewhere else. Its just a pain in the but to get the machine turned on with the keyboard open.

I agree, even more of a pain when the AC adapter is plugged in without the Multiport II, which makes sense on why it has two power jacks. Its not a bad idea though. It would be WAY more convenient. Only problem is the space for the keyboard mech and the keyboard shelf is very tiny so a fine switch would be hard. But its definitely possible, and probably worth doing. I'm also sure maybe if a section of the keyboard shelf is removed a control panel seen on the T series with the volume and power button might look good.

(slightly offtopic) Why exactly is the 701C casing so fragile? I was peeling off the metal backplate on the keyboard shelf to be greeted with a split in three pieces, with the plastic a crumble like texture.

[Thinkpad4by3]

Ok, thinklight is probably overkill but nice idea. my idea was putting a powerbutton in an alternate location, say on the top like on the TP 345 or 355 or somewhere else. Its just a pain in the but to get the machine turned on with the keyboard open.

I agree, even more of a pain when the AC adapter is plugged in without the Multiport II, which makes sense on why it has two power jacks. Its not a bad idea though. It would be WAY more convenient. Only problem is the space for the keyboard mech and the keyboard shelf is very tiny so a fine switch would be hard. But its definitely possible, and probably worth doing. I'm also sure maybe if a section of the keyboard shelf is removed a control panel seen on the T series with the volume and power button might look good.

(slightly offtopic) Why exactly is the 701C casing so fragile? I was peeling off the metal backplate on the keyboard shelf to be greeted with a split in three pieces, with the plastic a crumble like texture.

I have a theory for the plastic cracking. I think the plastic is very thin, maling it brittle. The plastic by itself shatters, not flexes. As a combo, with the weakening over age, it makes it all extremely brittle.

How about putting the power button below the LCD? There is plenty of room there. You can also run the little cable along the right side like the inverter and microphone cable.

[Cooler22]

https://preview.ibb.co/b2YoR5/WIPThink.png

Doesn't look half bad... Still a lot of work to go...

EDIT: The lid is finished, for those who need to print up a lid. Although I couldn't model the little clips for the bezel so screws are the only way to get them in. If anyone knows how to do this, please edit the model and post it please. Also new holes need to be drilled in for any screws that work, especially if you are going to reuse/recreate the brass screw holes, including the metal hinge retainers (that fail and either pop off or bend). Either way though it should fit in flawlessly.

Also, I will do the lower shell and keyboard shelf as soon as I get free time to disassemble and model.

I have included a 3DS and original SKP:
LINK: https://www.mediafire.com/file/i7eaz13a ... 1CLid2.zip

[Thinkpad4by3]

The 701C fits in the size my printer if you would like me to print it out and see how it scales. Its a very nice model!

I saw the badge you used

EDIT: I need an STL file. When I converted the 3DS file, it resulted in an unclosed shell.

[Cooler22]

Sorry for long wait, here you go: https://www.mediafire.com/file/1kfxpwcv ... LidStl.zip