dead battery..EUREKA !!!

Message

roncoinc · #1 Post by **roncoinc** » Fri Jun 02, 2006 11:58 am

ok,i'm all excited now..
tried to get a completely dead battery going,none of the tricks i read about worked..searched the internet for weeks..
found one mention of a li-ion haveng a reset button on top..
took apart my 600 pack and could find nothing..i DID notice a few little holes along the top(+) side..so,i stuck a pin in there,,the cell read ZERO volts,now reads 2.78 volts !!..i cut part of the top off one and found pushing down on the center is what reset the curcuit,,this one now also reads 2.78 volts !!...so,they do have a reset,,whats sets them off i dont know...next step is to take a small drill to enlarge one of the holes so i can use something more sturdy than a pin to push down with..if that works i will try it on a pack i havent seperated the cells from yet..ideally all cells in a pack should be at same voltage for a good recharge..will work on that too..
if anybodys interested i will post results as i go along..

roncoinc · #2 Post by **roncoinc** » Fri Jun 02, 2006 2:31 pm

with the loose cells and a small drill bit and a dulled sail needle it now takes about ten seconds to reset the batteries..they all come out about 2.7x volts wich should be close enough to get a good recharge..
BTW !!!... i talked to a battery engineer today and he reinforced what i already knew about li-ion batts and how they could blow up..
proper precautions are neccessary..
now on to reseting all the cells while still in the pack...

roncoinc · #3 Post by **roncoinc** » Sat Jun 03, 2006 9:09 am

i managed to reset all the cells in two packs..one gives me 8.50 volts and the other 10 volts measured of the ends of the packs..no voltage at connectors tho..managed to jumper the circuit board to get voltage at the pins but am afraid to put it in my machine to test it !! it think i jumpered over a switching transistor or scotchky diode or a basic relay of some sort....i dont have a good battery to take apart and can find no schematic for the circuitry..if anybody has that or knows where i can find it let me know..or if somebody has a bad battery with a good board and bad cells they would like to donate let me know....

JHEM · #4 Post by **JHEM** » Sat Jun 03, 2006 9:20 am

roncoinc wrote:or if somebody has a bad battery with a good board and bad cells they would like to donate let me know....

Please update your profile with your LOCATION!

You might live around the corner from me and I could drop one off for you to play with.

Regards,

James

roncoinc · #5 Post by **roncoinc** » Sat Jun 03, 2006 4:49 pm

LOCATION !,,good idea,now in my profile tnx...
I now have a battery pack in and charging,the lite is now green idicating it could be used at 30% charge..started with 0% but had 8.50 volts in it..so at 30% has 11.50 volts..i did measure a fully charged pack and it had 12 volts so i am keeping a carefull eye on this as it charges..the fuel guage doesnt agree with the actuall voltage so maybe i can drain the pack off the computer with a light bulb until i can get everything to agree..i did have to make two jumps on the pack's board,i hope they may be part of the reduntant circuitry i have heard about..
testing the voltage at different % charge it doesnt seem the charge rate is linear.....any suggestions or ideas ??

roncoinc · #6 Post by **roncoinc** » Mon Jun 05, 2006 7:53 am

Tried lowering pack by using a 12 volt lightbulb,,,was working well until i forgot about it and drained everything completely !! rendering the battery pack useless.seems once li-ion's get over drained they wont take a recharge..
now have a second pack i reset the cells in and am now trying to recharge it..
ordered 5 dead packs from ebay to play with and hopefully will get some good circuit boards from them to use..and maybe some good cells..
also need to find out when pad says battery is 0% just how much voltage IS left in the pack..anybody ever measure a good 0% pack voltage ?

vanaya · #7 Post by **vanaya** » Mon Jul 17, 2006 11:40 am

I know this is an old post, but am interestred on any new findings... I have (5) 600e batteries that could benefit.

roncoinc · #8 Post by **roncoinc** » Mon Jul 17, 2006 6:09 pm

several things seem to happen with these packs...a part on the control board goes bad and shows the whole pack as bad,,one or two cells go bad and the board sees a bad pack and wont charge it,,one or two cells voltage goes to low and wont recharge as fast as the others and results in a week short lasting pack..the "fuel guage" gets out of sync with the actuall voltage in the pack...
after taking apart over ten packs about 30% had bad boards,,10% had batterys to low in voltage to take a recharge,,the rest had one set ( 2 ) cells that where bad..i have reset cells by pushing in on the "popoff " ( safety ) valve with success about 30% of the time..
to rebuild a pack would need a couple that will show %100 charge take them apart,seperate the cell packs and rebuild one with all cells of the same highest voltage..takes a bit of trickery and cleverness and will keep you occupied for awhile but you can end up with a good pack..

#9 Post by **rkawakami** » Mon Jul 17, 2006 6:26 pm

How do you keep the pack together once you have split the case? I have purchased a couple of re-built 600 series batteries from batteryrefill.com and found that they seem to have used some kind of glue or epoxy to hold the two halves together. It's not exactly a professional job either, as the section near the terminals seems to lack any glue, which causes the battery to jiggle inside the compartment when installed.

Saysana13B · #10 Post by **Saysana13B** » Mon Aug 07, 2006 12:34 am

This seems interesting. Any Pics of the process? I just bought a battery off ebay from a guy who bought 1800 of them in bulk, untested. My heart sank when I read some of the reviews, most were dead but a few lucky ones worked. I should have read before I bought. So I might end up with TWO dead batteries in my posession.

I've been looking for the past week or two about the 600 series battery. I've came across many sites but they seem dead now, last updated a 2-3 years ago. I hope you can get real good results.

cmarti · #11 Post by **cmarti** » Mon Aug 07, 2006 10:27 am

My opinion is that a no working/shorted battery might damage my pc because of that every time i require a battery i get a new one.

440roadrunner · #12 Post by **440roadrunner** » Mon Aug 07, 2006 4:31 pm

Breaking into 600 series batteries is not for the faint of heart, unless you have a few, and can sacrifice the first one as a learner. There is a considerable amount of conductors and circuitry in them that you can damage with your knife/ crowbar/ hacksaw/ cutting torch, etc, etc

Not only that but trying to solder in a bunch of new cells ain't all that easy. By that I mean, getting them in the first place, with solder tabs already in place.

I've found that generally in terms of two way (handheld) radios and laptops, it's generally just better to find a "rebuilder" and go with that

#13 Post by **carbon_unit** » Mon Aug 07, 2006 4:44 pm

I found that the easiest way to get a 600 battery apart is to roll a pizza cutter around the seam.

#14 Post by **rkawakami** » Mon Aug 07, 2006 5:42 pm

carbon_unit wrote:I found that the easiest way to get a 600 battery apart is to roll a pizza cutter around the seam.

Now there's a unique solution! I may have to try that on the next dead 600 battery I come across. I was going to use a Dremel but your technique sound delicious

!

dead battery..EUREKA !!!

dead battery..EUREKA !!!

update

Who is online