Hey,
This is a more technical question I wonder if someone can help me with.
One day, my battery in the main bay stopped working. It wouldn't power the notebook and it wouldn't charge in that bay. It will still show the power percentage and it sometimes shows the charging indicator, but it never charges.
It still changes in the ultrabay. Obviously, there is a problem with the primary battery bay. How should I start troubleshooting this? I took the laptop apart, but didn't see anything obviously wrong with it. Is it probably a system board problem?
Rob
Battery problems with my 770ED
-
tfflivemb2
- Moderator1

- Posts: 5532
- Joined: Thu Sep 01, 2005 1:17 pm
- Location: Wisconsin
- Contact:
-
rkawakami
- Admin

- Posts: 10055
- Joined: Sun Jun 04, 2006 1:26 am
- Location: San Jose, CA 95120 USA
- Contact:
I don't have a 770 but I have had some experience like this recently...
If the suggestion that tfflivemb2 provided does not help, you may have to obtain a digital multimeter to further isolate the problem. Doing so will allow you to measure the voltage on the main battery, the voltage being supplied to the battery from the terminals in the laptop and then, if my suspicion is correct, test a fuse on the motherboard which may have blown. You can get a fairly cheap multimeter from Radio Shack or Home Depot. Something that measures AC and DC voltages up to 200v (good enough for your laptop and around-the-house usage) and resistance. Auto-ranging is nice to have but adds to the cost. Also, download the Hardware Maintenance Manual (HMM) from here if you don't already have it:
ftp://ftp.software.ibm.com/pc/pccbbs/mo ... 7l5152.pdf
Referring to page 37 of the HMM, you should be able to get the leads of a multimeter into the slots of the battery to measure the voltage. If it reads close to the rated voltage, your battery is probably okay. (I'll ignore the current capacity for the moment). Power up the laptop with the AC adapter and carefully put the leads on the two terminals inside the battery compartment. Looking at the HMM, you may have to do this with the laptop partially disassembled. If you don't get any voltage at the terminals, or you feel that you cannot measure it safely, then you should look for a fuse and test it.
I'm assuming for the moment that IBM has designed their laptops in a similar manner over the years. I have a T23 which would not power on when run from a known good AC adapter, yet worked fine on battery power alone. The problem was a blown 7A fuse on the motherboard. In fact, there appear to be separate fuses protecting the DC power input, the main battery bay and the Ultrabay. Your situation may be like mine. If there is a blown fuse in-line with the main battery bay, it will not charge nor power the laptop. Look around the area where the battery terminals are. You can usually identify fuses as being labelled as "F7" or some such number. With the laptop completely disconnected from any power source (AC and battery), put the multimeter in the lowest resistance range and place the leads across the ends of the fuse. You should read zero ohms if the fuse is good and "nothing" if it is bad.
If you do find a bad fuse, your problem would normally just be starting. You now have to identify the amperage rating and find a source for the replacement in single-unit quantities. There may be markings on the fuse which can identify the amp rating and/or a manufacturer code. If you can't find anything, PM me and I'll see what I can do to figure it what it is. For an answer to the second problem, I'll pass on this piece of advice: I have used both DigiKey.com and Mouser.com as a source of parts since they both usually offer to sell just one unit with no minimum dollar limit.
If the suggestion that tfflivemb2 provided does not help, you may have to obtain a digital multimeter to further isolate the problem. Doing so will allow you to measure the voltage on the main battery, the voltage being supplied to the battery from the terminals in the laptop and then, if my suspicion is correct, test a fuse on the motherboard which may have blown. You can get a fairly cheap multimeter from Radio Shack or Home Depot. Something that measures AC and DC voltages up to 200v (good enough for your laptop and around-the-house usage) and resistance. Auto-ranging is nice to have but adds to the cost. Also, download the Hardware Maintenance Manual (HMM) from here if you don't already have it:
ftp://ftp.software.ibm.com/pc/pccbbs/mo ... 7l5152.pdf
Referring to page 37 of the HMM, you should be able to get the leads of a multimeter into the slots of the battery to measure the voltage. If it reads close to the rated voltage, your battery is probably okay. (I'll ignore the current capacity for the moment). Power up the laptop with the AC adapter and carefully put the leads on the two terminals inside the battery compartment. Looking at the HMM, you may have to do this with the laptop partially disassembled. If you don't get any voltage at the terminals, or you feel that you cannot measure it safely, then you should look for a fuse and test it.
I'm assuming for the moment that IBM has designed their laptops in a similar manner over the years. I have a T23 which would not power on when run from a known good AC adapter, yet worked fine on battery power alone. The problem was a blown 7A fuse on the motherboard. In fact, there appear to be separate fuses protecting the DC power input, the main battery bay and the Ultrabay. Your situation may be like mine. If there is a blown fuse in-line with the main battery bay, it will not charge nor power the laptop. Look around the area where the battery terminals are. You can usually identify fuses as being labelled as "F7" or some such number. With the laptop completely disconnected from any power source (AC and battery), put the multimeter in the lowest resistance range and place the leads across the ends of the fuse. You should read zero ohms if the fuse is good and "nothing" if it is bad.
If you do find a bad fuse, your problem would normally just be starting. You now have to identify the amperage rating and find a source for the replacement in single-unit quantities. There may be markings on the fuse which can identify the amp rating and/or a manufacturer code. If you can't find anything, PM me and I'll see what I can do to figure it what it is. For an answer to the second problem, I'll pass on this piece of advice: I have used both DigiKey.com and Mouser.com as a source of parts since they both usually offer to sell just one unit with no minimum dollar limit.
Ray Kawakami
X22 X24 X31 X41 X41T X60 X60s X61 X61s X200 X200s X300 X301 Z60m Z61t Z61p 560 560Z 600 600E 600X T21 T22 T23 T41 T60p T410 T420 T520 W500 W520 R50 A21p A22p A31 A31p
NOTE: All links to PC-Doctor software hosted by me are dead. Files removed 8/28/12 by manufacturer's demand.
X22 X24 X31 X41 X41T X60 X60s X61 X61s X200 X200s X300 X301 Z60m Z61t Z61p 560 560Z 600 600E 600X T21 T22 T23 T41 T60p T410 T420 T520 W500 W520 R50 A21p A22p A31 A31p
NOTE: All links to PC-Doctor software hosted by me are dead. Files removed 8/28/12 by manufacturer's demand.
-
- Similar Topics
- Replies
- Views
- Last post
-
-
x230 sleep problems (only with battery attached)
by srirams » Mon Apr 24, 2017 11:36 pm » in ThinkPad X200/201/220 and X300/301 Series - 3 Replies
- 654 Views
-
Last post by srirams
Tue Apr 25, 2017 11:10 pm
-
-
-
Ultrabay battery prevents main battery from charging?
by ThorOfAsgard » Mon May 22, 2017 11:25 am » in ThinkPad T430/T530 and later Series - 8 Replies
- 273 Views
-
Last post by Thinkpad4by3
Mon May 22, 2017 8:50 pm
-
-
-
Long time after: USB stick problems on W98
by wujstefan » Sun Mar 05, 2017 2:29 pm » in ThinkPad R, A, G and Z Series - 6 Replies
- 1209 Views
-
Last post by wujstefan
Tue Mar 21, 2017 1:32 pm
-
-
-
Looking at buying a 1st Gen - but has no HD - COA problems?
by dwilsonfl » Tue Mar 14, 2017 8:56 pm » in ThinkPad X1/X1C - 5 Replies
- 1635 Views
-
Last post by dwilsonfl
Sat Mar 18, 2017 6:23 pm
-
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 4 guests



