R52 runs very hot

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joostk
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R52 runs very hot

#1 Post by joostk » Thu Nov 09, 2006 12:51 am

My R52 is a little over a year old. At maximum performance and 100% stressed, the cpu temp gets as high as 95 C. At lowest performance setting and 100% stressed, the temp rises to 66 C. Idling at lowest performance: 57 C.

Isn't this way too hot?

The fan seems to be working, usually around 4000rpm according to tpfancontrol. There is airflow near the fan outlet, but don't know if it is less than normal, as I never paid attention to it before.

Anything I can do about this myself?

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Re: R52 runs very hot

#2 Post by NS » Thu Nov 09, 2006 1:46 am

joostk wrote:My R52 is a little over a year old. At maximum performance and 100% stressed, the cpu temp gets as high as 95 C. At lowest performance setting and 100% stressed, the temp rises to 66 C. Idling at lowest performance: 57 C.

Isn't this way too hot?

The fan seems to be working, usually around 4000rpm according to tpfancontrol. There is airflow near the fan outlet, but don't know if it is less than normal, as I never paid attention to it before.

Anything I can do about this myself?
My R52 temperature is almost the same as yours. I tried to use a notebook cooler for it but it only lowers the temperature by 3 degrees only. :-(

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#3 Post by agarza » Thu Nov 09, 2006 1:49 am

You need to open up your Thinkpad, clean the fan, and get some Isopropyl Alcohol to remove the stock thermal goop on the CPU and heatsink. Also get some high-end thermal paste (Arctic Silver 5, Zalman STG1) and apply it on your CPu core. My Dothan 745 barely hit the 63C when gaming, even for hours (this using Zalman STG1)
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Re: R52 runs very hot

#4 Post by joostk » Thu Nov 09, 2006 1:51 am

NS wrote:My R52 temperature is almost the same as yours. I tried to use a notebook cooler for it but it only lowers the temperature by 3 degrees only. :-(
According to http://www.intel.com/support/processors ... 007971.htm the maximum temperature is 100 C, that's too close for comfort for me...
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Re: R52 runs very hot

#5 Post by NS » Thu Nov 09, 2006 1:54 am

joostk wrote:
NS wrote:My R52 temperature is almost the same as yours. I tried to use a notebook cooler for it but it only lowers the temperature by 3 degrees only. :-(
According to http://www.intel.com/support/processors ... 007971.htm the maximum temperature is 100 C, that's too close for comfort for me...
Some programs might be running secretly in your computer and munching down on the CPU cycles and thus produce more heat.

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#6 Post by joostk » Thu Nov 09, 2006 2:02 am

benottomex wrote:You need to open up your Thinkpad, clean the fan, and get some Isopropyl Alcohol to remove the stock thermal goop on the CPU and heatsink. Also get some high-end thermal paste (Arctic Silver 5, Zalman STG1) and apply it on your CPu core. My Dothan 745 barely hit the 63C when gaming, even for hours (this using Zalman STG1)
Is there anything more to it than unscrewing a few screws? Any online howto? I can go and open it up right now, but if I can save myself some time (and possibly problems) by not making any stupid mistakes (not much experience opening up laptops, only desktops) that would be nice.
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Re: R52 runs very hot

#7 Post by joostk » Thu Nov 09, 2006 2:05 am

NS wrote:Some programs might be running secretly in your computer and munching down on the CPU cycles and thus produce more heat.
Even if it is maxed out at 100%, it still shouldn't approach the 100 C this close. So I don't think that is the problem. But my system is 99% idle btw, and it still runs hot (54 C now, at lowest cpu speed setting).
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#8 Post by NS » Thu Nov 09, 2006 2:06 am

joostk wrote:
benottomex wrote:You need to open up your Thinkpad, clean the fan, and get some Isopropyl Alcohol to remove the stock thermal goop on the CPU and heatsink. Also get some high-end thermal paste (Arctic Silver 5, Zalman STG1) and apply it on your CPu core. My Dothan 745 barely hit the 63C when gaming, even for hours (this using Zalman STG1)
Is there anything more to it than unscrewing a few screws? Any online howto? I can go and open it up right now, but if I can save myself some time (and possibly problems) by not making any stupid mistakes (not much experience opening up laptops, only desktops) that would be nice.
Check out the R52 Hardware Maintenance Manual. :-) Pay attention to the touchpad and keyboard plug when lifting up the whole palm rest together with the keyboard.

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Re: R52 runs very hot

#9 Post by NS » Thu Nov 09, 2006 2:07 am

joostk wrote:
NS wrote:Some programs might be running secretly in your computer and munching down on the CPU cycles and thus produce more heat.
Even if it is maxed out at 100%, it still shouldn't approach the 100 C this close. So I don't think that is the problem. But my system is 99% idle btw, and it still runs hot (54 C now, at lowest cpu speed setting).
Use the task manager- process and check which program is consuming so much CPU power. Mine is like this and after i end the process, everything is back to normal.

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#10 Post by christopher_wolf » Thu Nov 09, 2006 2:08 am

joostk wrote: Is there anything more to it than unscrewing a few screws? Any online howto? I can go and open it up right now, but if I can save myself some time (and possibly problems) by not making any stupid mistakes (not much experience opening up laptops, only desktops) that would be nice.
You can get the specific HMM (Hardware Maintenance Manual for it. That gives you instructions on how to disassemble and reassemble the R52 properly. :)
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Re: R52 runs very hot

#11 Post by joostk » Thu Nov 09, 2006 2:10 am

NS wrote:Use the task manager- process and check which program is consuming so much CPU power. Mine is like this and after i end the process, everything is back to normal.
Like I said, my system is 99% idle :wink:

I'll check out the maintenance manual, thanks for that! If I eventually fix (or don't fix) the problem I'll report back here. But it might take a week or two, I'm on the road currently and don't want to risk a broken laptop!
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#12 Post by joostk » Thu Nov 09, 2006 2:16 am

Ice&Water wrote:If your system is 99% idle and it is running hot like you have stated, then there might be virus in your computer.
I don't think so. I have an up to date virus scanner, and I don't just click on things (ie. I'm no noob). Besides, the performance of my laptop is not affected, if I stress it it gets even hotter! If there were no cpu cycles left cause of a virus eating it all up, it couldn't get any hotter either. Unless there is some magical virus that heats up the cpu without using any cycles :?
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#13 Post by jason5885 » Thu Nov 09, 2006 2:34 am

Ice&Water wrote:If your system is 99% idle and it is running hot like you have stated, then there might be virus in your computer.
nonsense!! How has this got to do with virus??

joostk, please open up your laptop and follow benottomex's instruction. :-)
Usually, after you applied the thermal paste on your CPU, everything should be fine.
Clean up the fan in case of clogged dust preventing the heat from escaping.
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#14 Post by AlphaKilo470 » Thu Nov 09, 2006 2:46 am

As suggested by a couple of people now, try cleaning out the insides and making sure the fan is in good working order. After making sure everything (but especially the fan, heatsink and vent opening) is free of dust and obstruction, try applying new thermal grease to the CPU heat sink.

You can safely take it from me and anyone else who says similar here that a virus is not the issue. There aren't any known viruses that just magically turn your laptop into an oven; yet.
Last edited by AlphaKilo470 on Thu Nov 09, 2006 2:48 am, edited 1 time in total.
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#15 Post by christopher_wolf » Thu Nov 09, 2006 2:46 am

Follow Benottomex's instructions and clean any obstructions as Jason said above. This is not a virus.
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#16 Post by dsigma6 » Thu Nov 09, 2006 8:12 am

What are your fan levels in tpfancontrol? What ever the case, have it come on earlier, or always on, just to see what temps that gives you (If you haven't already). Run the CPU on adaptive.

I've done the AS5 thing to a few CPU's, and I haven't noticed much of a difference. Tpfancontrol made the difference.
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#17 Post by joostk » Thu Nov 09, 2006 8:34 am

Ok, tried that. Set CPU to adaptive, and fan to level 7 (+/- 4500 RPM). I've been using 100% CPU for about 5 minutes now, and the temp is 91 C....

P.S. Ambient temperature is about 30 C where I'm at currently (no AC) but still, 91 C is way too high.
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#18 Post by dsigma6 » Thu Nov 09, 2006 8:39 am

You still definitely need to open her up and poke around..

Set the fan to level 6, it tends to run faster than 7. :?:

It should be up around 4800-5000RPM.

edit: I didn't mean to say that the CPU on adaptive would give you a lower temperature at 100% load...100% load will cause it to run at the higher frequency. That was just for normal use, as it will probably idle 5, even 10C lower.
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#19 Post by agarza » Fri Nov 10, 2006 1:46 am

It doesn't matter if there's a suspicious process in Windows Taskbar Manager that could cause your CPU temp rise to the 90's C.

Try my suggestion to replace the thermal compound and be sure you apply a thin layer of Arctic Silver. I've heard some histories of TP users that they were having problems with their TP overheating, but that was just simply because the heatsink was not properly making 100% contact with the CPU core. You check that and the temps should be about 65-75C at load, I think

My former TP T30 at load used to hit the 65-72C at most with Arctic silver 5, before the break-in period AS5 needs in order to achieve 100% performance. Also the fan was aging
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#20 Post by joostk » Thu Nov 23, 2006 3:07 am

Ok, here's the current status.

I opened up my laptop, had Zalman STG ready, I disassembled everything according to the service manual, but I was unable to remove the fan unit. There are 3 screws. I was able to remove 2 screws without any problem, but the third one won't budge. I did a few serious tries, but I just keep damaging the screw, it's just too tight. So I decided to leave it at that and not damage the screw any further than I already did, and just blow out all the dust. My R52 is still working (which is good), and it is idling at about 48 C, and max stressed it reaches 80 C. So removing all the dust from the fan definitely helped. Too bad I couldn't replace the thermal grease.
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#21 Post by Kyocera » Fri Nov 24, 2006 7:40 pm

From AMD: http://www.amd.com/us-en/assets/content ... 5-high.wmv

The AMD video states that thermal grease is not recommended for long term applications. Had not heard that before

I found this information after doing a lot of research due to the fact that I am getting ready to upgrade the processor in my R52.

AMD states thermal grease is really a temporary measure. I found the big reason to use arctic silver is the fact that it does not degrade or dissapate over time, and therefore will last longer than other cheaper brands. It appears the best way to go is the thermal pad for the more permanent solution. I also read that it takes around 200 hours of processor usage before you get close to your true temps, after the grease is seated properly. So really checking the temps after the install can only really be necessary to make sure there is some type of cooling going on, probably a good idea to check daily until you get to around the 200 hour point and see what the temps are at that time.

I just upgraded my R52 from a celeron to a pentium and so far it is running about 8 - 10 degrees cooler :)

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#22 Post by Kyocera » Sat Nov 25, 2006 8:30 pm

jooskt:
There are 3 screws. I was able to remove 2 screws without any problem, but the third one won't budge. I did a few serious tries, but I just keep damaging the screw, it's just too tight. So I decided to leave it at that and not damage the screw any further than I already did, and just blow out all the dust. My R52 is still working (which is good), and it is idling at about 48 C, and max stressed it reaches 80 C. So removing all the dust from the fan definitely helped. Too bad I couldn't replace the thermal grease.
____________

I replaced my processor today in my R52, celeron to pentium and had the exact same problem you did :( . Two of the fan unit screws came out but the third one was rounded off and there was no way to use a screwdriver to get it out, at first I thought it was a torx or allen head but it just looked like a bodybuilder put in the fans on these models. I got out my dremmel tool and the 3,000 different bits that I have. I used a long thin grinding tip to completely grind off the head of the screw inside the brass sleeve, use a can of air to blow out the metal dust and stone material and a magnifiying glass and flashlight to see if the screw head is completely gone. Having the brass sleeve around the screw actually helps keep the grinding tool lined up to the head of the screw. Once you look into the hole and see the head is gone use a thin blade screwdriver to pry up gently, the fan will come out and the remainder of the screw will be sticking up in the base of the computer, just unscrew it with your fingers or pliers. Luckily I had a complete set of screws from my T42 so I found a screw that fit perfectly in it's place. I have to admit I was a little concerned about the vibration of the grinding tool but it worked perfectly with some patience.

Now I have a 1.6g pentium as opposed to the celeron it came with.

jooskt, have you tried NHC and set it to dynamic switching? this helps keep the temps down a little while plugged in to AC, keeping the processor speed lower with normal tasks.

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#23 Post by n00bish » Mon Dec 11, 2006 9:57 pm

Alright guys, I can fix your problem. Here we go:

Notebook Hardware Control has a nice feature that allows you to undervolt your processor, which will reduce its' heat output. When I first got my R52, I got it up to 95 C no problem. Now, under a full load with graphics, I can't get it above 80C. That's still hot, but it's better, and I may be able to get it even lower. Here are my real world numbers in a nice little chart:

Code: Select all

Pentium M sonoma 1.86 Ghz
Multiplier	Voltage (test)		Voltage (stable mod)	Voltage (default)

6	    .908 -> .860 -> .828		.988			            .988
8						              1.052			       .084
9						              1.084			       1.132
10						             1.116			        1.164
11						             1.164			       1.212
12						             1.196			       1.260
13						             1.228			       1.308
14						             1.260			       1.356

Lowest voltages (conceivably)
6x: 0.700
8x: 0.764
9x: 0.812
10x: 0.844
11x: 0.892
12x: 0.940
13x: 0.988
14x: 1.036
They worked for me, hopefully you can see what I did. I basically took the current voltage, and stepped it down a step, tested it, then another step, tested it, etc. until I found a voltage that was stable. I just simply moved the other ones down the same # of notches. Takes a bit but it will pay off.

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