Bad USB connector on t21

[brucehe]

Hello,

I am new to this user group so if this has already been posted, sorry, but I could not find anything using the search function.

I have a t21 and the USB connector is very flakey. I can wiggle the male connector to get it to work but it will not be consistent. My understanding to replace this requires a motherboard change? Is this true? In addition the PS-2 connector is also flakey.

A possible solution I have tried is to use a usb 2.0 pmcia card but I also have a Dlink 630 wireless card so they do not fit at the same time. I guess if I could find a skinnier wireless card it would work, any ideas?

Any other ideas?

PS I have had beep code errors, blue screen stop errors and locking currsor for the last few weeks and by scanning this site figured it was probably a RAM problem. I then pushed on the memory stick cover panel and could duplicate some of the problems. I then adjusted the memory stick metal holders to give a more positive click fit and it seems to have work. So far so good.

Thanks,
Bruce

[Msmax]

Hello,

If you are familiar with soldering then you can exchange the USB connector. Just try to find an old mainboard for the parts only.

Have done it for Dell notebooks in the past. Suppose it is the same story with these IBM machines.

Msmax

[tom lightbody]

welcome to the forum

one diagnostic idea is to run IBM's "PC-Doctor,"
conveniently at

http://www.kawakami-ca.com/ibm_t23/ibm_t22_pcdiag.iso

(ray is our t2x guru, specializing in t23s)

this might help identify weaknesses in the machine for repair

[rkawakami]

Guru? Hmm... tell that to the wife .

Your BSODs can be a number of things (RAM, hard drive, motherboard). PC Doctor (DOS) can help with those items but it does not have any tests for the USB port. Seeing as you are having a problem with the PS/2 connector as well, I would say that you may have a bad connection with the I/O (Sub) card to the motherboard. I'm late for an appointment right now, but when I get back in a couple of hours I'll post some more details. For now, get a copy of the Hardware Maintenance Manual from here:

T2x HMM

edit: Okay, back now to fill in some details...

The USB connector may have some traces broken or dirty or the socket itself lifted off of the board. From what I see on a board from a T23, the USB socket is one of the few components that are still using "through-hole" mounting (pins extending through the printed circuit board) as opposed to surface mount so it probably hasn't worked itself loose. The T21 Sub card is of a different design and since it only has one USB port, could use a mounting system different than my T23's. In any event, you may be able to unsolder the USB socket and replace it with another one.

If you have the soldering skills and equipment, then all you need is another USB connector. That is usually the hardest part. While the cost of the connector is probably around $1 ($7 shipped ), you have the large problem of finding an identical replacement and a company willing to sell you just one. I've done that several times with laptops and MP3 players so it's not impossible; it just takes some detective work.

If you don't have skills or the inclination to fix the board yourself, then the easiest thing to do is simply replace the entire card. The FRU number is 26P8023 and there are a couple on eBay at the moment for $30.

However, before you spend any money... you may simply have a bad connection of the motherboard to the I/O card. The reason I say that is because of your comment about the PS/2 port also acting weird. I would try this first: remove the keyboard and press down in the area I've shown in this picture:

http://www.rkawakami.net/images/t22_sub ... ection.jpg (86KB)

This is from a T22 but the T21 should look fairly close. What you are pressing down on is the connector between the Sub card and the motherboard. Make sure that the screw holding down the CPU heat sink near this area is also secure. Pop the keyboard back on and see if that fixes the problem. If not, then it's probably time for a Sub card replacement. For that, you have to remove everything in the bottom case. If you need help with that, come back here and give a shout.

(edit: inserted the missing word different to make the sentence make sense)

[brucehe]

Thanks Ray for the detailed information. The manual really helped. Since all the connectors are on one board I would imagine it is not the sub to system board connector since the ethernet and video out connectors work fine. I also hooked up a new usb card reader that has a power led when it is connected and when I wiggle the connector I can make the light go on and off. So, I guess if I want it to work it means replacing the IO board. I noticed it is the last FRU to remove in the hardware manual order of removal, everything comes out! I have removed the LCD to plug in the ribbon connector but never gone farther then that into the machine. How tough a job is it?

Also before I dig into it the LCD has a pink tinge at startup until it warms up so I assume an new LCD will be needed soon. Is it worth keeping the machine, as a new lcd seems to go from about $150 -$200. I saw used ones for $60 but how do I know what life is left in them. Thanks again for the help.

Bruce



anks,

Bruce

[rkawakami]

Since all the connectors are on one board I would imagine it is not the sub to system board connector since the ethernet and video out connectors work fine.

True, but if the signals for the USB and PS/2 ports are on one end of the connector and the others on the opposite end AND the mating of the two connectors are not flush, then it's still possible to have this problem. There could also be some oxidation on the pins for the USB and PS/2 signals, which don't affect the other ports. And then it's also possible that you may have to completely remove the motherboard and re-install it to "clean up" the connections.

I also hooked up a new usb card reader that has a power led when it is connected and when I wiggle the connector I can make the light go on and off.

That does seem to be indicative of a bad USB socket. Even so, you have nothing to lose by first making sure that the motherboard-to-Sub card connection is okay. You only have to remove the keyboard to press down in that area. Plus you don't have to spend any money to try it! If it doesn't work, then you've only wasted a few minutes but you would have had some practice removing and re-installing the keyboard.

I noticed it is the last FRU to remove in the hardware manual order of removal, everything comes out! <snip> How tough a job is it?

On a scale of 1 to 10 (1 easy, 10 hard), I'd have to rate it at about a 7 to 7.5. The real problem is that ALL of the screws in the bottom half of the laptop needs to come out. If you don't take the time to carefully document where each of those screws came from, it will make re-assembling the system tougher than it needs to be. What I use each time I take apart a system is a sectional box that has post-it notes labeled with each area or FRU associated with the screws or small pieces that come out. You can do that or use small baggies to keep the pieces from disappearing around your work area.

There may be a "work-around" if you don't want to tear apart the system and replace the Sub card. You could plug the laptop into a port replicator (FRU 02K8668) and use the USB port on the replicator. Those things are fairly cheap on eBay and I believe that there's one available in the Marketplace at the moment:

http://forum.thinkpads.com/viewtopic.php?t=35117

As long as your USB problem is isolated to the socket on your laptop, the port replicator uses the signals coming out of the bottom of the laptop. Of course any of these fixes still mean that you are limited to USB 1.1 speeds. Since you indicated that you have a USB 2.0 PCMCIA card and a D-Link 630 card but they can't co-exist in the two slots at the same time, I assume that the USB card is the type that has a big "box" sticking out at the end and you have it in the top slot. I only know of one PCMCIA USB adapter that uses a dongle but it appears to have been discontinued (Apricorn EZUSB2CB). To answer your suggestion about a thinner wireless card, how about a Netgear WG511T? They look to be the same thickness all of the way out to the end. Almost like my old MA401 card.

Also before I dig into it the LCD has a pink tinge at startup until it warms up so I assume an new LCD will be needed soon.

That's usually an indication that the backlight is nearing the end. Some people here have been successful in replacing the backlight but I would rate that job as a 9.8. That's a guess since I've never done one but I've seen what some panels require in order to get to the lamp. Although I might do one very soon... I've got an SXGA+ panel that appears to have a dead lamp and I'm eyeing one on eBay for about $150. Contrast that with the cost of a new CCFL ($10 plus shipping) and it sounds like a no-brainer, right? Depending upon your initial investment into the laptop, $100 to $150 for a new LCD may be worth it if it keeps your system running for the next 5 years or so.

[Msmax]

True, did not realise the USB connector is not directly soldered on the main board as with Dell machines. So, if only the USB connector is loose/broken then it is an easy fix.

If you need a subboard from a T20 machine then I can help you with that. Still have one machine for parts here.

I have replaced the tube on a TFT screen.
The first one was destroyed and becae useless.
The second screen I tried was a succes. Need to take care not to disassemble the screen too much. Only open the below part to be able to take out the defective tube. Solder all wires to the new tube and carefully put it back in location. Work on a clean and flat surface, do not move the TFT too much as long not all screws are mounted back. It is built up of several layers and to get those all in place bach is a a pain. That is where I gave up on the first screen.

@Ray:
I do not think those boards are still on Ebay for $29, cause I have bought both of them yesterday...
Will you use/repair the defect SXGA+ in the future?

Msmax

[rkawakami]

Will you use/repair the defect SXGA+ in the future?

Yes, I will probably try to do the CCFL replacement as I really have nothing to lose if I damage the LCD. The panel is out of a T23 that I bought for $140 (with this known problem) so I'm not too thrilled about spending another $150 for a new screen. I took a chance that it was an inverter or cable issue and lost . I have a spare XGA panel that I've already connected to the system so I know the motherboard is okay, but I like the SXGA+ .

[brucehe]

Well, I removed the keyboard and pushed down on the connector as Ray recommended. It did not seem to work, but it is the first step to get to the sub board. However, my old problem has returned. I will start a new post to see if I can get some more help.

Bruce