T42 power socket problem - not GPU problem.

[tgrevers]

I have a T42 with a loose power socket on the back of the machine. Has anyone repaired one of these? Is it a solder in socket assembly on the T42, or is it something that I can swap out with a screw driver? I know it's the power socket that's causing me problems, because I can move it around, and it causes the system to lock up, or the video to flicker. It's loose enough that I can easily move it around when the power adapter is plugged into it.

Advice appreciated. If it's something that needs to be soldered, shop recommendations would be appreciated.

Regards,

-Ted (Boston)

[rkawakami]

There's at least five threads about this. Using the Search link and plugging in "t42 power socket loose" and checking the "Search for all terms" options this is what I find:

http://forum.thinkpads.com/viewtopic.php?t=53275
http://forum.thinkpads.com/viewtopic.php?t=33863

The DC power input jack is secured to the base with a screw. It has leads which end in a small socket that plugs into the motherboard. You can find replacements on eBay by looking for "t42 power jack" and use the Hardware Maintenance Manual:

http://www-307.ibm.com/pc/support/site. ... 46464.html

to open up the system. It does take a fair amount of disassembly to get at the jack, however your problem may simply be a loose mounting screw.

[poshgeordie]

Refer to the Screw removal document in my sig for stripping down the T4x.

Having stripped the TP down to the motherboard, remove the metal back chassis by unscrewing the two standoffs either side of the Parallel port connector with a pair of pliers.
If necessary also remove the screw securing the DC jack to the chassis.

The metal chassis should then detach from the motherboard. It can sometimes be a bit tricky getting the two separated since it has to be worked off the parallel port connector.

Unplug the DC jack from its connector and replace with a new one.

[HDRW]

My T42 doesn't respond to the power-cable (doesn't charge the battery, stays on battery power) and I've checked and there is 16V on the plug. The yellow socket is loose - slides inwards by about 3mm when the plug is inserted, and will slide in and out by the same amount with the plug connected. I assume the mounting screw has come out.

I see from the photos that there are cables connecting it to the motherboard, but is the mounting screw also an electrical connection? Is it likely that just reinserting a screw will solve the problem? If not, is a new socket likely to fix it (there's no visible sign of damage to the socket)?

If so, how far does the machine have to be dismantled to do this?

Where would I get the right screw? (There's no rattle from the machine so I don't think it's still inside)

Edit: In fact I can see through the hinge-gap above the socket that the screw is missing (not just loose!)

Cheers,

Howard

[poshgeordie]

Hi Howard

PM me with your address, I'll send you a replacement screw.

Looking at the .pdf in my sig, in section 8, it's the M2.5 x 3 gold head.

To get to that part of the TP, remove the Keyboard (Sect 1), palm Rest (2), Keyboard Bezel (3), and the M2 x 14 screw securing the LCD ribbon cable (5).

You'll then need to disconnect the LCD connector from the motherboard.

The DC connector is underneath the LCD ribbon connector.

Replacing the connector entails stripping the TP right down and removing the metal back chassis.
To do this use a suitable tool to undo the two hexagonal standoffs securing the parallel port to the back chassis.
You then need to wiggle the chassis around to detach it from the motherboard.
(Sorry I need to add that step to the pdf)

If adding the screw to the connector fixes the problem great; but if not then use your meter to check that you're getting 16V Also check the 10A fuse next to it is OK.

Good luck and welcome to the forums

Nick

[HDRW]

Update: Thanks to Poshgeordie for his help, advice, and pictures!

I found I had to replace the socket as the old one's side-contact (-ve) had pushed back into the housing so it wasn't making contact with the barrel of the plug.

A new one from eBay isn't expensive, it's just a complete strip-down, as Nick says above, to get the darned thing out! But at least I now know how to replace any part of this machine

Cheers,

Howard

[HDRW]

...
Having stripped the TP down to the motherboard, remove the metal back chassis by unscrewing the two standoffs either side of the Parallel port connector with a pair of pliers.

Or better still, if you have a Swiss Army "Cybertool", take the bit out of the multiple-bit holder, and use the socket - it's exactly the right size for the jack-screws in serial and parallel port sockets!

(For those who don't know, the Cybertool is a range of Swiss Army knives designed for working on PCs - there are several versions but all have a driver-socket with four interchangeable, double-ended screwdriver bits, with the brilliant idea of making the socket itself useful).

I have no connection with Victorinox, the manufacturer, other than being a long-term satisfied customer...

Cheers,

Howard