BOD is an acronym coined in this forum (not sure who was the first?) that stands for Blink of Death or the “split second blink of the battery indicator LED” to use your phrase. Do a Search under the T2X forum and you’ll find a range of suggested “solutions” (including the one suggested by ghasapidis...

Sounds like the dreaded T2* BOD! On a related note, I had the same BOD symptoms with a NEC Versa and after a lengthy disassembly and checking of components, the last thing I checked was the bios battery which was a 3V Li with less than 0.5V After I replaced it all was well! I doubt this is your prob...

Good to know I’m not alone! I’ve had two boards with the same symptoms (or lack of symptoms!). In both cases (one an R51 I think, and another an R50, plus another unrelated case of a Celeron R50e), a capacitor under the motherboard, left of the S-Video port (where there is one) and south of the para...

poshgeordie’s experience suggest that the epoxy should be left in place when reflowing. In fact, I recall Ray referred to an article which suggested that placing “shims” under the GPU corners helped to keep the GPU from becoming warped/slanted during reflow. The only question in my mind was whether ...

They come in different shapes and sizes but the main ones are the larger black rectangular ones or light yellow-brown ones - labels start with a "C". Burnt ones should be obvious but they generally look normal so you have to test them in-circuit. With a resistor test you should see the "resistance" ...

You’re not alone hellaxe! Mine (Intel graphics) was in the no-boot but-lights-on mode when I got it. I stripped it down and gave it a good clean and got it working again. Managed to flash bios with latest version, get the operating system installed and working, then after being on for a few hours it...

I hope it isn't, but it sounds suspiciously like the GPU problem (see T4x sticky). I have one of these R40 with a similar problem. The sticky notes help for a while but it gets worse with time. Take a deep breath and get that heat gun out...
Cheers

Looking at the image, is that a heat sink over the GPU? My R51 doesn't seem to have that (and neither do a bunch of T4* series motherboards I have). It looks like this may be an aftermath addition? Also, any ideas what those cables over the harddisk cage do?
Cheers

Before you head down the risky GPU reflow route, take off all devices and power (adapter, battery, CMOS) and do the power-drain routine: press power button 10 times or more then hold down for 20 seconds. Reconnect only the adapter and try to power on. No luck? You've already tried the obvious possib...

We're hijacking this thread from the OP but yes, a cold joint is a distinct possibility, and so is an overheating CPU, or some other heat sensitive power regulator. As for the missing screws, just make sure it's not from the fan or from the mainboard to backend panel connection. Are you absolutely s...

db1: Your problem seems a bit different, and yes definitely heat-related but I'm not sure it a power issue as well. I'd give the memory a thorough work out - memtest loop, if you're already done the eraser cleaning trick. The other possible problem is a dodgy timing chip. The main one is I think und...

Congratulations, you’re now the not-so-proud owner of a T2*-Z series (Z for Zombie) laptop. It will provide you with endless hours of pain and displeasure, and momentary periods of misplaced celebration and happiness! Your family and friends will wonder what on earth has possessed you, and turned yo...

I've been away for a while and had hoped by the time I returned the BOD problem would have been solved, well and truly! In the meantime, amongst other things I've been working on a couple of R50's that, while they don't have the BOD, won't boot up at all or else will fire up the fan but don't make i...

Yes, that company should be banned but not just from Ebay. This is the equivalent strategy of spam...it only has to work every so often...and apparently it does! When the adapter costs more than the non-adapted then forget it. It only really makes sense if you have more than one device that needs ad...

I've been looking for one of these for a while. You might want to check the Amazon listing at:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/ ... 45-4385506

Just beware, there's one for sale for over $1000!! (misprint for sure)
Cheers

Checked all the fuses on the MB, all OK. Measured the voltage just after the first FET (direct below F2): 6V. Normally this should be 16V.Msmax Let me get this straight. F2 is the transparent (thermal?) fuse and the FET is the 8-legged IC marked F7416 at the bottom? Pin 4 is the top left pin lookin...

I have a T42 but the warranty doesn't expire till 2008 so you must only have had a one year warranty on yours? The ECA (Engineering Change Announcement) is a notice put out about possible changes/defects. It's not quite a recall but if your machine is affected by the problem in the ECA you may get i...

I guess the warranty is expired - how far out is it? Even so, it may still be worth asking IBM/Lenovo about fixing it as there is an Engineering Change Application out on the T4x series.
Cheers

My R40 with the wedged aluminum plate is starting to misbehave again. Reducing the screen setting from 32 bits to 16 bits seems to help so it maybe related to heat buildup as well. Let's hope I don't have to go down to VGA resolution or less! Where's that old 486... Just spoke to the technical folks...

The Hitachi Drive Fitness Test is a great utility! But...it only confirmed my fears of a hardware failure It spat the dummy with a failure code of 0x75 - Defective Device. Component Failure. Well at least I know for sure. Thanks again for your suggestions.
Cheers

"dead slot issue" ?? Which slot would that be? I'm guessing no power supply to the slot?

Thanks for the suggestions but I'm still stuck with a read-only drive. I can access the MBR information and make changes etc but when it comes time to commit those changes to disk by writing to it, all of the systems crash out. I tried the mbrfix suggested by pjm99au but it is checks to see if SafeG...

The question now is whether the LCD/LCD connections are the problem or not. Can your friend take off the LCD connector and trying running off just the external video monitor? Oh, and just make sure the external monitor itself is OK as well. Let's hope we don't have to resort to Dan's lateral-thinkin...

I've been trying vainly to resurrect what initially appeared to be a disk with a bad MBR (Travelstar 20Gb IDE N79 4200rpm; out of an X23) . Symptoms were that it would appear to start XP (loading screen on) but then hesitate and crash out with an UNMOUNTABLE_BOOT_VOLUME error screen, after which it ...

That’s really disappointing that a repair shop didn’t get it right –twice- and charged you enough to buy another laptop. I’m at the point where I’m not as tempted to buy another T20/21/22 even a working one at a good price. Why bother when there are more reliable, or easier to fix, models around? We...

Dredging up an old thread.... I looked at the image of the motherboard and two things I noticed are: 1) it looks like the guide for the screw mount appears to be missing (south east of the ADP chip). Not sure what implications it has for the rigidity/flexibility of the motherboard and connectors?, a...

I presume the keyboard has been reseated. I’ve seen this shutdown in other situations such as where a USB harddisk draws more than the rated amperage of the USB port. The analogy suggests a short in the external video output plug/circuit. If it is in the output daughterboard (is there such a thing f...

I'm sure someone with more indepth knowledge will correct me if I'm wrong. PATA/IDE drives are listed as 44 pins even though in fact there may only be 43 physical pins on the drive, plus 4 other pins off the side (hence your count of 47 pins) which are to set the device/cable (master/slave). The mis...

I have a third board that I might be willing to part with...unless I can't get the solder off of the second one. I was thinking a few minutes ago that I might desolder one of the inductors off of the 2nd systemboard, and use it on the 3rd board, as that board is only missing an inductor... Getting ...

Well done! - on the first board. As for the second..., you could try getting the solder off with a bit of solder wick or a solder sucker if you can get it in there. Otherwise, I'm after a T23 board for parts
Cheers